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gator211
Sep 11, 2001, 1:59 AM
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So which guidebook would be the best for a travelling climber looking to spend 2 days tops at the Garden?
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andy_lemon
Sep 11, 2001, 4:54 PM
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As far as I know there is no guide book for Garden of the Gods. I've looked, looked, and looked. Since bolting is not ethical at GoG's it makes it hard to lead alot of the routes, other than just top roping. Plus the distance needed to travel to a cliff for climbing is far. You are not allowed to climb on the Observation Trail so I would say that is why no one has published anything. But I've been there 20+ times so just email me for info...
Andy
Harleydavidson_usi@hotmail.com
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gator211
Sep 11, 2001, 9:15 PM
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Oh, I was just going by the books and references section of the Garden page here on rockclimbing.com. It mentions several books there. So are there not many sport routes either then? That isn't what I've read on a couple other sites.
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rck_climber
Sep 12, 2001, 3:39 PM
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I posted that information and there are SEVERAL books on the Garden of the Gods. Among those are "Rock Climbing Colorado", a Falcon Guide, by a my friend Ian Spencer-Green's dad, Stewart Green; Bob D'Antonio and Ric Geiman both also have guide books out that are exclusively on the Garden (Ric Geiman's Garden Guide: "A rock climber's guide to the Garden of the Gods' best climbs"; and Bob D'Antonio's: " Classic Rock Climbs No. 4: Garden of the Gods, Pikes Peak, Colorado"). For that reason, I suggest you pick one of those up if you are only going to be in town for a few days and only plan to climb in the Garden. Otherwise, get Green's book, it's got climbing areas all over the state and is the most comprehensive, all-inclusive guide out for Colorado.
Furthermore, almost ALL the climbing in the Garden is lead-climbing with high first bolts and long run-outs. Get used to it. There are only a few top-rope places and I can give all of them to you complete with directions if you need it.
I've spent the last 4 years climbing nearly every day in the Garden and there are but a few routes that I have yet to do. I will shed as much light as possible on any of your Garden questions.
Mick
[ This Message was edited by: rck_climber on 2001-09-12 12:47 ]
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andy_lemon
Sep 12, 2001, 5:12 PM
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Seen this come up in the forum in Illinois section. I assumed it was talking about Garden of the Gods in Illinois since it was in the appropriate forum. Guess it was misplaced... My mistake???
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gator211
Sep 12, 2001, 11:46 PM
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Thanks for the help Mick. I'd probably want to do some 5.9-5.10 climbing then, if there are some long runouts etc... I've heard the rock is pretty loose/chossy in some areas. Is it a pretty big concern on most of the routes?
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rck_climber
Sep 13, 2001, 12:07 PM
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It's a concern on all but east face of kindergarten rock and a few select routes scattered throughout the Garden. Good luck, when are you coming to town?
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rrrADAM
Sep 13, 2001, 3:57 PM
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The "Garbage" of the Gods really sucks as far as GOOD climbing goes, been there, didn't even want to do that.
If you're set on climbing there, get Falcon Guide, Climbing Colorado. Just an hour SSW of there is Shelf Road near Canyon City, REALLY good. Been there, loved that.
rrrADAM
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rck_climber
Sep 13, 2001, 4:25 PM
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That's very true, there are few great routes on "solid" sandstone, but plenty to last a weekend trip.
Shelf is an excellent place to climb, a virtual sport climber's mecca with bombproof pocketed limestone and short, steep sport routes. I've been there a number of times, although not for about a year or so - was out of the country all last year. It's about an hour and a half from the south side of the Springs.
Stewart's book (see Adam's comments and mine above) covers both areas very well. Shelf is a little more difficult climbing with only 3 or 4 climbs (according to Stewart's guide) under a 5.10.
Hope this helps some more.
Mick
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rck_climber
Sep 13, 2001, 11:23 PM
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Well put , Matt. Since I taught you everything you know anyway!!
(Matt is my climbing partner and we climb together at the Garden nearly every day, or at least every day our wives let us )
Mick
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rck_climber
Sep 14, 2001, 4:50 PM
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LOL, you're killin' me brother .
Can't wait to get out and climb again. Going stir crazy from sitting in the damn hospital for 3 days straight.
Mick
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gator211
Sep 15, 2001, 1:39 AM
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Ok, so it looks like I need about 4 different guides to climb those two areas huh guys?
I'll definitely consider the Shelf area when I get that way. Thanks for all the help guys.
So, when does climbing pretty much shut down for the winter? What I'm asking is how much longer do I have this year to make a trip?
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rck_climber
Sep 15, 2001, 5:12 PM
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Really, you only need one guide book, but we're just trying to narrow it down for you so you end up w/ the best guide book to suit where you'll be and what you'll be climbing.
Bottomline:
Stewart's "Rock Climbing Colorado" for all over Colorado.
-or-
Geiman's Garden Guide for just the GOG.
The season is still great, but you've got to be prepared to weather some afternoon storms. The earlier you can be on the rock, the better. I've climbed on Christmas day here before, and been snowed off in June and September - so it's crap-shoot as to the weather you'll get when you're here. It's Colorado and the weather changes very frequently and quickly.
Hope this helps.
Mick
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talons05
Nov 14, 2001, 8:56 PM
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I would suggest you get the Falcon Guide: Rock Climbing Colorado.
AW
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crackbaby
Mar 23, 2004, 2:12 PM
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about the garden of the gods. It's a beautiful, fun place to climb on loose rock. I saw a guidebook on ebay today as I was looking around the site for another guidebook. I don't think it's the falcon guidebook (most likely in stock at REI in the springs), but it's cheap and if you're curious about any other routes you could just ask someone who's just climbed it. Climbing is year around, as long as the weather's good. But don't climb after it has just rained. the rock becomes very soft and it is very easy to pull holds off the route. dangerous, and damaging. And you may very well encounter an american Indian upset with upset about you climbing in their sacred place. We've just been polite and never really had a real problem. I think they are looking for a debate or maybe a fight. However, I don't know of any archeological finds indicating the garden was a place of religous significance for any american indians (But I would love to be corrected if I'm wrong.)
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