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samanddusti
Jun 23, 2005, 11:08 PM
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I just bought my first rope and I was told that i should rotate the ends used for tying in. How do i mark the rope?...tape or marker.
Thanks for the help in advance
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vegastradguy
Jun 23, 2005, 11:25 PM
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dental floss is an option if you know the knot to use....someone around should know it.
otherwise, go grab a bluewater rope marker from a gear shop and mark away.
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maimed
Jun 23, 2005, 11:57 PM
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So vegastradguy et al., tell me how much damage I've done to the load bearing capacity of my rope by marking the midpoint with a handy black sharpie.
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vegastradguy
Jun 24, 2005, 1:01 AM
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In reply to: So vegastradguy et al., tell me how much damage I've done to the load bearing capacity of my rope by marking the midpoint with a handy black sharpie.
hell if i know. i dont mark my ropes- i buy mine with middle marks from the factory.
if, for some reason, it doesnt have a mark (my doubles dont), i learn to deal with it. it's only mildly irritating about once every other month not to have the middle marked- so, imho, ropes really arent worth marking. it's more of a convienence than a necessity.
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kman
Jun 24, 2005, 1:04 AM
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In reply to: So vegastradguy et al., tell me how much damage I've done to the load bearing capacity of my rope by marking the midpoint with a handy black sharpie.
Why don't you ask the UIAA guys that did testing on this?
In reply to: Marking of Ropes by End-users 15.05.2002 11:00 End-users of climbing ropes have been marking their ropes to help rope management. At the last Plenary Session the Safety Commission, together with the attending rope manufacturers, dealt with this problem. It was concluded that certain products act aggressively on polyamid. As a result the Commission has published the following NOTIFICATION: Notification Concerning the Marking of Ropes Tests done by the UIAA Safety Commission and some rope manufacturers have shown that marking ropes with liquids such as those provided by felt-tipped pens can damage them; even with those markers, sold specifically for marking ropes. The test results have shown a decrease of up to 50% of the rope strength, more correctly: of the energy absorption capacity of the rope (expressed by the number of falls in the standard test method in accordance with the UIAA Standard101). Therefore the UIAA Safety Commission warns against marking a rope with any substance that has not been specifically approved by the rope manufacturer of that rope. It is not possible for the UIAA Safety Commission to test all markers that are commercially available and can be used for marking ropes. Furthermore it would be impossible for the UIAA Safety Commission to keep such information up-to-date. In addition, the effect of any rope marker seems to vary with the make of rope. Hence, all the UIAA Safety Commission can do is to warn mountaineers and climbers. Issued: April 2002 News
It has also been said that Sharpie is not consistent with the chemicals that go into their product.
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climbinginchico
Jun 24, 2005, 1:19 AM
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Buy a bicolor rope next time. :wink:
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geezergecko
Jun 24, 2005, 1:38 AM
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Stitch dental floss into the sheath. Learned that trick from some New Zealand climber web site and it's worked great for me.
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samanddusti
Jun 24, 2005, 2:43 AM
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thanks guys. My middle is marked but i realized that there is already a tag on one end and ill just leave it there for a marker
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maimed
Jun 24, 2005, 4:10 PM
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Thanks kman,
I've got an email into my rope manufacturer
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lostincrimea
Nov 22, 2005, 10:20 PM
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http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/Marking%20of%20Ropes.doc
This article basically says not to use a marker.
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stymingersfink
Nov 22, 2005, 11:50 PM
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same way i always have:
 
To paraphrase a buddy who worked in the QA department, whose job it was to BREAK gear, his response when asked this very question:
The use of Sharpie markers is not recommended by most rope manufacturers.
Change the question a little bit to, what do YOU use to mark YOUR rope? and I got an entirely different response:
A Sharpie marker!
No shizz.  Same thing I've been using.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jul 10, 2007, 9:17 PM)
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qtm
Nov 23, 2005, 12:39 AM
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Using a sharpie to mark the middle of a rope is not recommended; do a search and you'll find references from (or links to) several rope makers and climbing associations.
But there shouldn't be any problem marking the last inch or two of the rope. The last couple of inches shouldn't ever exprience a critical load, so it shouldn't matter if the solvents in the ink degrade the core a bit.
Not that I think it's necessary, over time both ends will get the same amount of use just by random selection. If you're really concerned, just switch ends when toproping. You can also tie one end in your rope bag, and next time out use that end to tie into and tie the other end into your rope bag.
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n00b
Nov 23, 2005, 1:35 AM
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When I bought my Maxim 9.8 mm rope, the manufacturer recomended using a Marks A Lot marker to mark the center. I can't find it on their site, but it was in one of the little information booklets that it came with. If the manufacturer says its OK, how bad can it really be?
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vegastradguy
Nov 23, 2005, 2:00 AM
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In reply to: But there shouldn't be any problem marking the last inch or two of the rope. The last couple of inches shouldn't ever exprience a critical load, so it shouldn't matter if the solvents in the ink degrade the core a bit.
and why in the world would you mark the ends of your rope?
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roshiaitareya
Nov 23, 2005, 2:18 AM
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I've just wrapped a piece of tape around the rope at the middle... it comes off after a couple raps on it, but it works for the time being. BTW, way to use a rock climbing forum to post your anti Bush political pictures. :roll:
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robo555
Nov 23, 2005, 3:48 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: But there shouldn't be any problem marking the last inch or two of the rope. The last couple of inches shouldn't ever exprience a critical load, so it shouldn't matter if the solvents in the ink degrade the core a bit. and why in the world would you mark the ends of your rope?
Because the opening poster said he wanted to rotate the ends used for tying in...
Although I just leave the ends as is and let probability take care of itself.
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kubi
Nov 23, 2005, 3:57 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: But there shouldn't be any problem marking the last inch or two of the rope. The last couple of inches shouldn't ever exprience a critical load, so it shouldn't matter if the solvents in the ink degrade the core a bit. and why in the world would you mark the ends of your rope?
how else are you gonna find 'em?
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vegastradguy
Nov 23, 2005, 4:00 AM
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see that, i read his post wrong. thought he was lookin to mark the middle.
shit, just scribble on the taped ends of the rope in different colors...
or sharpie it up- the very ends shouldnt matter one bit, as one person has already posted.
pffft, what a dork i am- can't even read the OP!
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climbxclimb
Nov 23, 2005, 5:41 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: So vegastradguy et al., tell me how much damage I've done to the load bearing capacity of my rope by marking the midpoint with a handy black sharpie. Why don't you ask the UIAA guys that did testing on this? In reply to: Marking of Ropes by End-users 15.05.2002 11:00 End-users of climbing ropes have been marking their ropes to help rope management. At the last Plenary Session the Safety Commission, together with the attending rope manufacturers, dealt with this problem. It was concluded that certain products act aggressively on polyamid. As a result the Commission has published the following NOTIFICATION: Notification Concerning the Marking of Ropes Tests done by the UIAA Safety Commission and some rope manufacturers have shown that marking ropes with liquids such as those provided by felt-tipped pens can damage them; even with those markers, sold specifically for marking ropes. The test results have shown a decrease of up to 50% of the rope strength, more correctly: of the energy absorption capacity of the rope (expressed by the number of falls in the standard test method in accordance with the UIAA Standard101). Therefore the UIAA Safety Commission warns against marking a rope with any substance that has not been specifically approved by the rope manufacturer of that rope. It is not possible for the UIAA Safety Commission to test all markers that are commercially available and can be used for marking ropes. Furthermore it would be impossible for the UIAA Safety Commission to keep such information up-to-date. In addition, the effect of any rope marker seems to vary with the make of rope. Hence, all the UIAA Safety Commission can do is to warn mountaineers and climbers. Issued: April 2002 News It has also been said that Sharpie is not consistent with the chemicals that go into their product.
It depends on the manufacturer of the rope.
I bought a Edelweiss witch did not have a mid rope mark.
I wanted to mark it, but after a little research I read the notice from UIAA
I called Edelweiss in France and I asked them what they suggested. They told me that they tested the beal marker( witch has been approved by other rope makers) and they approved it.
Therefore ask the rope maker to tell you what they approve as marker.
But ask directly the rope maker and no one else about using ink.
I lot of people think to know about this but the really do know nothing about the chemistry that can happens when two materials get in contact.
Therefore trust your life on someone who had studied the case....THE MANUFACTURER
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joeho
Nov 23, 2005, 5:06 PM
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I guess you can just tape the ends, but if you go to a office supply store, they usually carry water based permanant markers (you can sniff these!).
I'd probably mark up one of the ends with that. If you want, you can use it to mark the middle of your rope too. (Please don't tape the middle of your rope, it's annoying when it comes off and you're trying to belay). It's waterbased... go nuts, sniff it a bit if you feel like it.
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stymingersfink
Nov 25, 2005, 12:13 AM
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In reply to: I've just wrapped a piece of tape around the rope at the middle... it comes off after a couple raps on it, but it works for the time being.
I think you'll find the tape remains in place a tad bit longer if you:
Hold the section of rope you will be attaching the tape to under tension while applying the tape.
and...
as you wrap the tape, leave the tape tail exposed. As the working end of the tape comes around your rope, stick the adhesive sides together for the space of about 1cm (.5 inches, or 1/2 inches for the rest of you), then continue on around for a total of 2 layers of tape circumscribing the rope (wtih the exception of the 1cm with the adhesives joined, where you will find 3 layers).
In reply to: BTW, way to use a rock climbing forum to post your anti Bush political pictures. :roll:
first of all, they are not MY pictures, I found them on google, and B) I'm not anti-Bush, I'm anti- lying, thieving, conniving politicians of all stripes and colors and fourthly,
I will embellish my http://www.rspb.org.uk/...k_180_tcm3-23340.jpghttp://static.flickr.com/...743_535c1521a4_m.jpg with whatever makes me laugh, cry, or get my point across, http://www.gocollect.com/...estland/200/6751.jpghttp://www.kfrc.com/...mg/question_mark.jpg
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jimfix
Nov 25, 2005, 12:19 AM
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In reply to: So vegastradguy et al., tell me how much damage I've done to the load bearing capacity of my rope by marking the midpoint with a handy black sharpie.
I can assure you that I died from this very act. Sharpie, the insidious killer.
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