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Foot Belay Redux: now with video!
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climbsomething


Dec 5, 2005, 7:24 PM
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Foot Belay Redux: now with video!
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Friends,

Some of you may recall Curt's foot belay thread, where the old geezer revealed himself as the delirious closeted gumby that he is.

Well, I have damning proof that he is in fact an accident waiting to happen. Pictures may be worth a thousand words, but VIDEO CLIPS are worth at least, like, two thousand.

http://hillarydavis.com/...s/more/footbelay.jpg VIDEO HERE

Stay FAR FAR away from this sick old man. How he lived to see his 78th birthday is a mystery to me. I mean, look at the anchor that accompanied this TR set-up!

http://hillarydavis.com/albums/more/gumstr.jpg

Yikes.

:shock:


curt


Dec 5, 2005, 7:28 PM
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What? It looked good to me. 8^)

Curt


crazywacky


Dec 5, 2005, 7:44 PM
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Dangit.. Now I gotta go read 20-some pages of bickering...

Train wreck is right.

I prolly would use this technique just to freak out my climbing partner... "What?!? I learned this on the Interweb."


Later,

Scott


iltripp


Dec 5, 2005, 7:46 PM
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:lol: :lol: :lol:


I don't know I missed that thread last year. You should win an award for that one.


chalkfree


Dec 5, 2005, 8:12 PM
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Is that black crap on that second photo even rated? It looks like a bandanna.

That said I'd probly use it.


curt


Dec 5, 2005, 8:28 PM
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In reply to:
Is that black crap on that second photo even rated? It looks like a bandanna.

That said I'd probly use it.

That's the shoulder strap from a Cordless Evil Pad--the thing's fucking bomber.

Curt


climbingaggie03


Dec 5, 2005, 8:30 PM
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let me guess, using the black strap makes it a more dynamic system?


iltripp


Dec 5, 2005, 8:31 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Is that black crap on that second photo even rated? It looks like a bandanna.

That said I'd probly use it.

That's the shoulder strap from a Cordless Evil Pad--the thing's f---ing bomber.

Curt

Ah... of course...

However, it is distinctly lacking an upward directional. I really hope that was only for top-roping.


cosmiccragsman


Dec 5, 2005, 8:32 PM
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Hey Curt;
YOU know that you shouldn't step on the rope! :lol: :shock:


curt


Dec 5, 2005, 8:41 PM
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In reply to:
Hey Curt;
YOU know that you shouldn't step on the rope! :lol: :shock:

True, and you shouldn't fart in church either. However sometimes necessity dictates... 8^)

Curt


cosmiccragsman


Dec 5, 2005, 8:46 PM
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LOLOLOL. True!
Hey Curt I'm going to be climbing out in JTree, Jan. 14 and 15, With Hosh
from Alaska. If you are in the area, maybe we can hook up and do a few climbs.
Dwain
Cosmiccragsman


phugganut


Dec 5, 2005, 10:35 PM
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Hey I actually tried the foot belay once this summer at after we got stormed off of Tahquitz. It worked quite well.

When the sun came out we found ourselves near some big rocks with only a harness (too small for us 3 guys), some webbing, a few 'biners, and a short rope. I tied a harness out of some webbing and used the rest to set up a top-rope.

The foot belay worked so well that even little Jody was able to ditch the harness and belay the guys with it, despite a significant weight difference. It's not something that I'm going to get in the habit of, but in that situation it worked great. Whoudathunkit?


jimdavis


Dec 5, 2005, 11:02 PM
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Well at least you locked the biner... :twisted:

Cheers,
Jim

Oh, i dunno about using Mad Rock shoes for that technique. Mabye only on certain diameter ropes, you should really contact the authorities that be on that one.


Partner climbinginchico


Dec 5, 2005, 11:39 PM
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T38563056.

Great job! Suckered me in!


skinner


Dec 6, 2005, 12:02 AM
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That's a great video, good heel-arch technique, but I can't seem to be able to rate it :cry:


maculated


Dec 6, 2005, 1:17 AM
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Hill, I can't believe you have all those fancy cameras and you don't even get sound on the video portion. What is this world coming to?

It's way late at night and I thought I'd slog through the original since I tend to ignore threads that either I have nothing to add to and I'm sad I missed this one. It was, indeed, an interesting social experiment. I was thinking about what we accept as safe and why when I was seriously thinking about leading a 5.10 trad route at Pinnacles yesterday with a cordelette harness.

When I first started climbing we built belays out of as many redundant pieces as we could. It made us feel safe. I used to sit at gear belays and stare at them, ready for them to shift and eject me. I accepted what was safe as "safe" merely because I had a reading understanding of it and because I had seen people perform certain acts who I considered to be experts. ANything that deviated I would label stupidly unsafe.

Looking at what I know now as opposed to then, I found it odd that when Hill mentioned the video and the premise I didn't flinch. After all, that day I belayed with a coil of rope and thought, "Why don't we use the Munter hitch more often?" My strong point isn't scientific evaluation of anything, but from what I know of friction and experience with things like even stepping on the rope, didn't seem weird at all. I don't have nearly the amount of experience as most people voicing the same opinion as I had in that thread, but the vein is the same.

I went climbing with a group of people two years ago who set up sport top ropes with locking biners on the anchor bolts and cordelettes and double lockers on the rope contact point. I was like, "Why would you do this? Two quickdraws, you're good." I was looked at with horror. How unsafe! I wrote those folks off as gumbies and was highly irritated by their reactions and decided not to pursue a climbing relationship with them.

But, hey . . . don't we all start out like that? Do you really want someone who might stare at a sport anchor in horror to do something like what Curt's saying? So, it's probably good that the newbs are recoiling in horror - self-preservation: stay with what's safe and proven.

That's kind of a cool social experiment and my late night reading was well rewarded.

Not that any of you feel better after slogging through this post.


cintune


Dec 6, 2005, 6:43 AM
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Well, the video pretty much clinches it. Clearly there is no need to be carrying around one of those old-style "devices," as they were affectionately known.


blitzkrieg_climber13


Dec 6, 2005, 7:53 AM
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if the climber fell his knee would buckle and the rope would come flying out and the climber would fall to his death. i dont really like the sound of that but if you feel comfortable... w/e floats your boat.


pendereki


Dec 6, 2005, 8:13 AM
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What is the 'T' rating for a successful recycle of another excellent T? It is deserved, even caught a big one!!

Wheehooo, hang on.


crimpandgo


Dec 6, 2005, 8:23 AM
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I dunno,,,

I think the shoe rubber isn't good for the rope. Better check with the manufacturers before that rope falls apart on ya :) :lol:


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