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nooj
Dec 8, 2005, 8:00 AM
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Hi, 15 year old living in Australia here. I was just introduced to indoor climbing a few weeks ago and I've fallen in love with it. I really hope I can go outdoors, but I'm not sure how or where I'll be able to do it.
Anyway, I have an interesting question. On one occasion, I was reaching for this hold that was just out of my reach. I was getting pretty frustrated and angry, when one of the gym's staff came along and showed me something quite different. Instead of just reaching straight for it with his arm, he sort of reached side-ways, past the handhold and brought the arm back up in a smooth motion. He sort of drew a circle with his arms.
Next time I tried the climb, I followed his example. Instant success. So, the question is: How does this work? I don't particularly stretch out any further with my arms or legs. I know it works, I just don't know how.
Thanks.
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omegaprime
Dec 8, 2005, 8:52 AM
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Try as I may, I can't imagine what movement you're describing. Maybe someone else can and be able to describe to you what's going on.
For now, can you find anything similar here? http://climbing.tropic.org.uk
Plus that site is a good read on techniques for someone starting out, so you should go through it.
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tisar
Dec 8, 2005, 8:57 AM
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Just a guess: In drawing that 'circle' with your arm, you automatically shift your body weight over the right foot. In doing so, you relieve the other foot, freeing your hip joint - which is now capable to assist the movement, adding a couple of inches to your reach.
- Daniel
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nooj
Dec 8, 2005, 9:57 AM
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In reply to: For now, can you find anything similar here? http://climbing.tropic.org.uk Plus that site is a good read on techniques for someone starting out, so you should go through it.
Thanks omegaprime. I'm reading it right now. :D
In reply to: Just a guess: In drawing that 'circle' with your arm, you automatically shift your body weight over the right foot. In doing so, you relieve the other foot, freeing your hip joint - which is now capable to assist the movement, adding a couple of inches to your reach.
I think you're right! That's really amazing because before that incident, I was climbing in a straight forward way- up, down and occasionally sideways without regard as to technique. I'm now working on my footwork and using my legs a lot more. I've found that climbing using just the arms is really inefficient and tiring.
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tisar
Dec 8, 2005, 10:27 AM
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In reply to: I've found that climbing using just the arms is really inefficient and tiring.
It is :lol:
I'm not a pro myself, just started two years ago. But since I climb a lot with people of very different abilities, I think I developed a good sense of what might be missing.
I've seen bodybuilders got sandbagged by my ex, who isn't able to do a single pullup - she's just good in useing her feet.
Some things you might pay attention to:
- Follow gravity. If your body tends to 'fall' into a certain direction, place a foot right there. Don't mind if there's a good foothold, a bad one or even none, just place your foot there.
- Move your hip actively over your feet. The hip is the center of gravity. Placing it conciously over one foot relieves both your other foot and your hands for the next move.
- Place your toe tips only. Beginners often place too much of their feet, or worst, their instep flat to the wall. This turns out your leg and blocks the hip joint. 'Tips only' gives your hip a broader moving range to allocate your gravity center as needed.
- Look at your feet! Watch them until placed properly. Easy said, but often you'll find yourself looking elsewhere while doing the last couple of inches to the foothold. It takes some time and attention to get used to it but is worth it.
Besides: Have fun!
- Daniel
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jeapord
Dec 8, 2005, 2:06 PM
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It's kind of a balance thing.
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healyje
Dec 8, 2005, 2:30 PM
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Nooj,
You live in a country with incredible climbing, get outside as soon as possible and try to do more climbing outdoors than in if humanly possible. Hound some old guys into taking you climbing with gear once you know how to belay and handle ropes reliably. Don't get too hung up on the gym - it's a pale shadow of the real thing...
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nooj
Dec 9, 2005, 6:24 AM
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In reply to: Nooj, You live in a country with incredible climbing, get outside as soon as possible and try to do more climbing outdoors than in if humanly possible. Hound some old guys into taking you climbing with gear once you know how to belay and handle ropes reliably. Don't get too hung up on the gym - it's a pale shadow of the real thing...
Don't get me wrong. I don't want to stick around the gym all the time, as fun as indoor climbing is. I want to climb outside. But I have a couple of problems:
1) I live in suburban Sydney. Smack bang in the middle of a city. I don't know where the nearest places to rock climb are. Well, I know about the Blue Mountains, but I don't know if I can tackle sheer mountain faces just yet. :shock:
2) I know how to belay, and that's about it. I have no idea how rock climbing works, so just going to the nearest rock face with a harness and a belay device doesn't seem a good idea.
But, my indoor gym has a rock climbing course, so I'll sign up and see how rock climbing actually works. It's the school holidays coming up, so I'll have a lot of time on my hands. Excellent. :D
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omegaprime
Dec 9, 2005, 6:31 AM
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In reply to: 2) I know how to belay, and that's about it. I have no idea how rock climbing works, so just going to the nearest rock face with a harness and a belay device doesn't seem a good idea. But, my indoor gym has a rock climbing course, so I'll sign up and see how rock climbing actually works. It's the school holidays coming up, so I'll have a lot of time on my hands. Excellent. :D
Smart move. Another thing is try to get to know the people in your gym. That's a good way to find partners, or mentors. :)
BTW, try not to reveal your age in the forums. Its a big no-no.
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healyje
Dec 9, 2005, 9:06 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Nooj, You live in a country with incredible climbing, get outside as soon as possible and try to do more climbing outdoors than in if humanly possible. Hound some old guys into taking you climbing with gear once you know how to belay and handle ropes reliably. Don't get too hung up on the gym - it's a pale shadow of the real thing... Don't get me wrong. I don't want to stick around the gym all the time, as fun as indoor climbing is. I want to climb outside. But I have a couple of problems: 1) I live in suburban Sydney. Smack bang in the middle of a city. I don't know where the nearest places to rock climb are. Well, I know about the Blue Mountains, but I don't know if I can tackle sheer mountain faces just yet. :shock: 2) I know how to belay, and that's about it. I have no idea how rock climbing works, so just going to the nearest rock face with a harness and a belay device doesn't seem a good idea. But, my indoor gym has a rock climbing course, so I'll sign up and see how rock climbing actually works. It's the school holidays coming up, so I'll have a lot of time on my hands. Excellent. :D
I've climbed in the Blue Mountains and they are fabulous. You do need to work on your basic skills but don't let anyone here fool you - people learned to climb outside and in the Blue Mountains long, long before there were climbing gyms. You just need to find someone in your gym or on a Blue Mtn. partners website, but once you can belay solidly, know your knots, and have gotten even a bit of yardage in the gym you are more than ready to head out with an experienced partner. Be sure and talk with your folks about it all and be sure they are comfortable with whomever might take you climbing. It is, however, possible you will be gym-bound until you are a few years older but you should keep your eyes on getting outside. There are also bouldering areas around the harbor that you should be able to get outside on though I don't recall their locations as it's been about 10 years since I was there.
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nooj
Dec 9, 2005, 11:52 AM
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I never really looked at a rock formation as a place to climb before, so I'm trying to remember if I ever saw big rocks anywhere before. I do remember seeing outcrops when I went to the beach...are those boulderable?
I'm going to the gym tomorrow to put what I've read here to good use. Centre of gravity, using toes, using feet and legs...
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nooj
Dec 10, 2005, 5:02 AM
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Hopefully, I'm not violating any rules by double-posting. I've just found an awesome guide to rock climbing spots in Sydney and although I'm staying well away from them at the moment, I've found a bouldering spot only an hour's bus drive away from here:
http://sydneyclimbing.com/xgo_tunks_park.html
I could just have a go and see what handling real rock feels like. Is there anything special I have to do or bring along? Mats, chalk etc?
In reply to: I'm going to the gym tomorrow to put what I've read here to good use. Centre of gravity, using toes, using feet and legs...
Leaving in 20 minutes, so I better get off the computer now.
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kirsten00
Dec 12, 2005, 11:44 PM
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Thanks for the link nooj! :)
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