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trail3n
Dec 9, 2005, 11:38 PM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2005
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Mammut Promo 10.2mm 60 Meter Std w/rope bag
Beal Edlinger 10.2mm 60 Meter Standard
Beal Edlinger 10.2mm 60 Meter Golden Dry
Edelweiss Axis 10.3mm 60 Meter Everdry
Edelweiss Matrix 10.5mm 60 Meter Std
Blue Water Accellerator 10.5mm 60 Meter Std
Which rope is better? I just got into sport climbing and these ropes come in a package, and I just want to see if anyone has used one and what they think of it.
Thanks,
Trail3n
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ktotheidwell
Dec 9, 2005, 11:53 PM
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I have always had luck with the mammut ropes. 10.2 handles better than 10.5 (in my opinion).
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fredbob
Dec 10, 2005, 12:00 AM
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If you are just getting into sport climbing, buy the cheapest. Any "performance" differences will make not be decrenable by you.
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crazyclimbergirl
Dec 10, 2005, 12:07 AM
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Go for the one that is thinner, the 10.2. A few things to keep in mind when you buy a rope:
Anything below a 10 won't work in a grigri
dry coating on the outside is a waste of money unless you are doing ice climbing
have fun!
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cam
Dec 10, 2005, 12:10 AM
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I have owned at one time or another, ropes made by Maxim (New England), Mammut and BlueWater. I will comment on the two that are common in your list...
I find Mammut ropes to wear very well but handle rather poorly. I find them a bit stiff for my liking but that is personal preference really.
I have found BlueWater ropes to wear very well (after the initial fuzz appears) and handle equally so. Of the two, my vote would be BlueWater.
I have climbed with Beal ropes in the past and must say I like their hand though I do find them stiffer than a comparable diameter BlueWater. Since I have not owned a Beal cord, I can't comment on wear characteristics.
As far as I'm concerned, dry ropes are for wet places...not sport climbing, so unless the package price difference is minimal, I would forgo the extra cost and wasted feature of a dry cord for sport climbing. If you plan on any ice climbing, that's where a dry cord will shine. Otherwise, skip it.
So my vote among your list of choices would be for the Beal Edlinger 10.2mm 60 Meter Standard or the BlueWater Accellerator 10.5mm 60 Meter Std
cam out.
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avitripp
Dec 10, 2005, 12:23 AM
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the best rope is the one having the most fun :lol:
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letolives
Dec 10, 2005, 12:29 AM
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this post reminds me of something an old cowboy said to me about a pretty girl, too much tequila, and a soft rope and somehow it rhymed with floppy jalope.
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climbingnorcal
Dec 10, 2005, 1:08 AM
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I have the Blue Water Accellerator 10.5mm 60 Meter Dry and I like it a lot. It handles very well and seems to be wearing good. If I were to do it again I would have saved my money and not got the dry treatment. Overall a great rope.
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thisflash
Dec 10, 2005, 1:21 AM
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In reply to: Anything below a 10 won't work in a grigri
I've never noticed that. I don't know if Petzl tells you not to go below 10mm, but I'm running a 9.7mm and it works fine. I have friends that use smaller cords with the grigri and they haven't had any problems either.
I just read a post about the dangers of dynamic ropes while toproping though, so I guess safety is taking on a whole new meaning.
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hammerhead
Dec 10, 2005, 1:24 AM
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You should check out gearexpress.com. They have "short ropes" for cheap.
They have a 60m dry rope for $120.00. They had a 168' 10ish for around $100.00
Al
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crazyclimbergirl
Dec 10, 2005, 1:36 AM
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My climbing partner took a clinic and the instructors told her that and I've heard it a few other places too. They said that under 10 the rope is too thin for the automatic locking device to work. If it's worked for you though that's awesome, just be safe! If I'm wrong let me know, Thanks!
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caughtinside
Dec 10, 2005, 3:16 AM
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In reply to: My climbing partner took a clinic and the instructors told her that and I've heard it a few other places too. They said that under 10 the rope is too thin for the automatic locking device to work. If it's worked for you though that's awesome, just be safe! If I'm wrong let me know, Thanks!
You're wrong. It works with thinner ropes. The device itself says no ropes thinner than 10mm, but Petzl has said it will work on ropes down to 9.7. I guess they didn't want to redo the mold. Also, I've used it on ropes down to 9.4, I just paid extra attention.
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cam
Dec 10, 2005, 10:05 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2004
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Quite simply, the recommendation of rope diameter >10mm is for legal-ass-covering purposes. Sure the grigri will work with a rope less than 10mm but take a look at how much more the cam rotates with a <10mm cord versus >10mm cord.
I wondered the same thing about the >10mm stamp so I did a little experiment and here's what I found...The smaller the diameter, the less rope there is to pinch between the cam and the plate and if you go small enough, the cam will just rotate without pinching the rope and voila, the rope runs right through the device. That is, assuming the belayer is expecting the device to lock off itself.
cam out.
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fleshwater
Dec 10, 2005, 10:14 PM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2005
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I've used a couple of the ones you are considering, and I personally love the Bluewater Accelerator. I use it for everything, and have no real complaints with it at all. Only thing is the weight, but hey its a 10.5... consider it helpful for training =) Cheers!
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jimdavis
Dec 10, 2005, 10:14 PM
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In reply to: I have the Blue Water Accellerator 10.5mm 60 Meter Dry and I like it a lot. It handles very well and seems to be wearing good. If I were to do it again I would have saved my money and not got the dry treatment. Overall a great rope.
I have a BW Accellerator (non-dry) too and it's been great. My next rope(s) will be Sterling though, nothing against BW but Sterling has been a big help with the gym/ instructional service where I work, and a personal help to me too. They make a good rope; I've used their Marathons and regulars (single ropes only) and they're great.
I've had a defective rope from PMI, the thing corkscrewed under the sheath after 2 TR climbs, so I sent it back. Not buying from them again.
I've heard a lot of good things about the Mammut Supersafe too. Not cheap, but they last a while.
I'd get something cheap if you can. Those Sterling Marathon ropes tend to last quite a while though, so you'll get a little more life out of it.
Cheers,
Jim
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