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rock_junkie


Jan 8, 2006, 9:06 PM
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ONLY 5.11+ Climbers
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I've already done a search for this topic and the results did not meet my needs. Anyhow, I've been experiencing peeling (not flappers) on my finger tips every month or so and it seems as though my fingers go through phases from being very tough to very soft. I do not change my training regiment often and the rock I climb on is volcanic tuft. My questin is what do you do to prevent this from occuring?


styndall


Jan 8, 2006, 9:13 PM
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Re: ONLY 5.11+ Climbers [In reply to]
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Do you climb in bursts and then take time off?

When I was an undergrad, I would climb heavily for a few weeks, then take a couple of weeks off. My fingers would build calluses during the on phase, and then they would peel during the off.


Partner tattooed_climber


Jan 8, 2006, 9:13 PM
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Re: ONLY 5.11+ Climbers [In reply to]
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callouses???hand cream...CLIMBON products are good for that


also, edit your title.... :roll:


billcoe_


Jan 8, 2006, 9:30 PM
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Re: ONLY 5.11+ Climbers [In reply to]
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Sorry, although I know the answer, your call for ONLY 5.11+ climbers in the title precludes me from answering.

Good luck.


billcoe_


Jan 8, 2006, 9:33 PM
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Re: ONLY 5.11+ Climbers [In reply to]
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Wait, maybe I can answer it. Are you saying don't answer it unless you currently are climbing 5.11+ or at some earlier time you climbed 5.11+ then it's OK to answer it?

One more question, I noticed that you posted this in the "Gear" thread, hmmmm. .........Nevermind.


rock_junkie


Jan 8, 2006, 9:33 PM
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Re: ONLY 5.11+ Climbers [In reply to]
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Why should I edit my header? i want info from a select group of climbers not everyone, its just that routes at that grade and above become quite crippy which takes a toll on the finger tips.

I hardly take time off, but I do alternate days. I used to use ClimbOn hand balm, but the results were marginal. Do you find that hand creams soften your hands?


billcoe_


Jan 8, 2006, 9:35 PM
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Wait, maybe I can answer it. Are you saying don't answer it unless you currently are climbing 5.11+ or at some earlier time you climbed 5.11+ then it's OK to answer it? All the title says is:
In reply to:
Re: ONLY 5.11+ Climbers



One more question, I noticed that you posted this in the "Gear" thread, hmmmm. .........Nevermind.


rock_junkie


Jan 8, 2006, 9:39 PM
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Bilcoe_ please do not take offense I do not mean to be an elitist, just trying to aviod a bunch of nubie responses. From your profile you look as though you have a lot of experience, if you have an effective solution please share.


colkurtz


Jan 8, 2006, 9:43 PM
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maybe you are trying too many climbs harder than your ability. kinda like a beginner with shoes wearing out.

other than that maybe you should ask someone who plays guitar


curt


Jan 8, 2006, 9:45 PM
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If you want to prevent your fingers from going through these "shedding" cycles, you need to both file-down your calluses--and use a good hand salve to keep the skin soft. It is the dead dry skin that peels off.

For filing, try a good emery board or pumice stone. For hand salve, try Bag Balm, Burt's Bees Hand Salve, or Joshua Tree Climbing Salve.

Curt


mchristie


Jan 8, 2006, 9:56 PM
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In reply to:
If you want to prevent your fingers from going through these "shedding" cycles, you need to both file-down your calluses--and use a good hand salve to keep the skin soft. It is the dead dry skin that peels off.

For filing, try a good emery board or pumice stone. For hand salve, try Bag Balm, Burt's Bees Hand Salve, or Joshua Tree Climbing Salve.

Curt

Yup!! He's got it right. file your tips after climbing and then apply balm. Works like a charm when I'm climbing alot.

Matt


delarig


Jan 8, 2006, 9:57 PM
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I have the exact solution to your problem. I can't tell you though because I only climb 11c. Sorry.....


Partner tattooed_climber


Jan 8, 2006, 9:58 PM
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In reply to:
Why should I edit my header? i want info from a select group of climbers not everyone, its just that routes at that grade and above become quite crippy which takes a toll on the finger tips.
and
In reply to:
I do not mean to be an elitist, just trying to aviod a bunch of nubie responses.

PFFFFFFFFT!!!...and boulderers don't know anything about this??adjust your attitude....i know lots of gym climbers that have this problem.....grade doesn't depict anything.....and 11+ isn't always "crimpie"...all areas/rock/route/etc are different....this can be developed from all sorts of grades, from all sorts of climbs, gym, sport, trad, etc etc etc....i'm not wasting my time with you now


rock_junkie


Jan 8, 2006, 10:58 PM
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Re: ONLY 5.11+ Climbers [In reply to]
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tattooed_climber you already wasted your time by responding. Grade does depict a lot, very few people climb these grades without working towards them first, and hard work takes a toll on the body.
People remember climbing rarely deals with absolutes, i know not all routes are the same. I think you are missing the point of the post, i'm not trying to start a fight on here.


grk10vq


Jan 8, 2006, 11:22 PM
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In reply to:
I have the exact solution to your problem. I can't tell you though because I only climb 11c. Sorry.....

11c is 11+ please enlighten us.


rock_fencer


Jan 8, 2006, 11:25 PM
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i just let my hands peel. no harm comes of it as long as you trim down any loose skin before hitting the rock. but dont quite climb at that level yet


colotopian


Jan 8, 2006, 11:37 PM
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Something similar to that happened to me... but it wasn't because of climbing. Leprosy... No wait, I mean I was student teaching and using hand sanitizer and washing my hands too much (snotty kids, middle school disease factory, you know, paranoia). My theory is the harsh ingredants they use in these products killed the skin, or the system that held skin on. Any how, I stopped using antibacterial soap and hand sanitizer (just regular old soap now) and the problem went away. Might be something to try; organics only.


climbsomething


Jan 8, 2006, 11:40 PM
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In reply to:
People remember climbing rarely deals with absolutes, i know not all routes are the same. I think you are missing the point of the post, i'm not trying to start a fight on here.
So why do you think specific ratings must have a direct relation to peeling skin? The comments telling you your title is off aren't unjustified.

I let my tips/callouses peel and grow back. They do so pretty rapidly. If they're getting shaggy then I pick them off. They're not usually grody though. Like my friend here. Ew.

http://hillarydavis.com/...mbing/koleshands.jpg


alpine_monk


Jan 9, 2006, 12:17 AM
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In reply to:
i'm not trying to start a fight on here.
could have fooled me.... bitch.


squierbypetzl
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Jan 9, 2006, 12:21 AM
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Filing your calusses is important, especially if youŽre ripping off big chunks of skin (read: flappers). As far as hand lotions go, I remember something about urea making skin tougher, not just softer. If you use the lotion too much, youŽll get nice supple skin, but youŽll tear your fingertips to shreds.

IŽd tell ya more, but itŽs only for 5.12+ climbers... :roll:


climbsomething


Jan 9, 2006, 12:26 AM
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In reply to:
Filing your calusses is important, especially if youŽre ripping off big chunks of skin (read: flappers). As far as hand lotions go, I remember something about urea making skin tougher, not just softer. If you use the lotion too much, youŽll get nice supple skin, but youŽll tear your fingertips to shreds.

IŽd tell ya more, but itŽs only for 5.12+ climbers... :roll:
What? You're supposed to pee on your hands? :shock:


grk10vq


Jan 9, 2006, 12:29 AM
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for the record this is a pretty jackass title.


namoclimber


Jan 9, 2006, 12:32 AM
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I would have to say the same thing happens to me all the time. I just always though it was due to the drying effects of always having chalk on your hands.
it seems to go away when I'm climbing on sandstone, sloppers and crimps, so i could see that filing and salve would be the answer.

or find some sweet sandstone and pull hard!


superjosh


Jan 9, 2006, 12:33 AM
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I'm a big fan of Hoof Maker, a product from a company called Mane and Tail available at Walgreen's for sure and possibly other similar stores. It seems to both toughen and moisturize, and it dries quickly without leaving a greasy residue. It's very cheap, about $3 for a 6-ounce tube. I often combine it with instant hand sanitizer in a Hoof Maker-at-night, sanitizer-in-the-morning routine. A good, though slightly inferior, substitute for Hoof Maker is Udder Cream. Good luck.


fredo


Jan 9, 2006, 12:35 AM
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I don't climb 11+, more in the 8-10 range, but on the few crimpy routes I do get on I find my skin peels a lot too. My solution is masturbation, (sorry gals that might not help you) find yourself a nice lubricant and have at it..kills two birds with one stone eh :wink:

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