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passthepitonspete


Aug 10, 2002, 6:28 PM
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Dr. Piton says THANKS to everyone for all your help in Yoses
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Title of post edited by PTPP to say thanks!


Woo - HOO!!!

It's that time again!

Time for me to quit [pretending] work and bugger off down to the Centre of the Universe [my itinerant home!] for a month and a bit.

As always, I will be holding a Mini Big Wall Tutorial in "Camp 5", the bear boxes directly in the centre of the Curry Village Parking Lot, which is the big gravel lot that used to be an apple orchard.

This is your opportunity to be taught by Dr. Piton. Instead of wading through his posts, you can experience his loquaciousness in person!

As always, the cost will be free, however donations of Sierra Nevada porter [with the blue label] will be gratefully accepted.

This will be your opportunity to see all of my big wall systems being put together, and your chance to ask me questions. [I might even be able to answer some of them....] By the way, if you haven't yet clicked on the link in this paragraph, you might want to - it has nearly two thousand hits meaning close to ten thousand page views.

If you are a Big Wall Theorist who aspires to reduce your wank factor, and actually reach the summit of a big wall for a change, then this is the place for you to be. You'll probably want to bring a pen and notebook - there're going to be a few things you will want to write down, or sketches you will want me to make for you.

The game plan is for me to make a solo ascent of El Capitan by the route Lunar Eclipse, which is immediately right of Zodiac on the Southeast Face. [This will be my twentieth ascent of El Cap by my twentieth route - please consider this to be my Big Announcement.]

And as always, I will be hugely appreciative of any assistance you can lend in helping me to schlep all of my food, shower water, beer and pitons up to the base, which is about a forty-five minute hike from the El Cap Meadows.

The benefit to you of helping me schlep is that you will be able to see all of the big wall systems which I have written about actually being put together, and see how the stuff works. It might interest you to know that over the years, I have had dozens of friends help me carry stuff up to the base, and I have not yet had one person complain [to me, at least!] that their effort was not worth it.

What I'm saying is this - the hour or so of sweat equity you invest by helping me get my crap up to the base will be returned to you tenfold [at] in the energy savings you will achieve on your next wall, when you will put to work for your own good the stuff I teach you.

You will quite probably end up with aching legs and a sore back, but you will also end up knowing stuff.

If you want to learn the Better Way, then there is no better way and no better place to see the systems in action.

This, in Dr. Piton parlance, is a [hint].

Even if you don't have the time or inclination to help me with my carry, be sure to stop by Camp 5 to say "hi", eh? If I'm not around, you can leave me a message on my answering machine [a pen and a piece of paper with a rock on top]. I'll leave my radio frequency noted, too, in case you want to call me while I'm up on the wall.

Tom [apollodorus] my partner from Excalibur will be showing up two weeks later, around September 11th, which co-incidentally just happens to be my birthday. [Quite the date, eh?] So if any of you are feeling disappointed that you missed out on the "opportunity" to sweat your bag off whilst humping an enormous pig to the base of El Cap for no other reason than the goodness of your heart, then you will be delighted to know that there is another opportunity to suffer.

If you would like to read about what some of my "sherpas" said about their experience when they helped me schlep in May, then please CLICK HERE.

As a further [hint], I will mention that I have no wheels since I arrive by bus, and would really appreciate a drive up to Hans Florine's place to recover the gear I left in his care this spring. It's only about twenty minutes up the road, and I will be happy to compensate you in beer, gasoline and/or Big Wall Tips!

If there is any chance that you will be able to meet up with me, then RSVP in the post below to let me know if or when you'll be coming, and if you'll be able to give me a hand. I'll be checking this post from time to time, and would prefer you respond here as this will be easier for me to check than my email.

This spring, I must have met thirty or forty people from RC.com, at least half of whom were those mysterious GUEST people we all see lurking in the "Who's online?" window. So if you are one of these people, please get yourself a user name and sign on, eh? [HINT]

I am very much looking forward to meeting new friends, and to hanging out with old friends, so like, let's make a party of it, eh?

At least you can be smiling while you suffer.



Cheers,

"Pass the Pitons" Pete

a.k.a. Dr. Piton



[Note]Admins who might want to move this post to the Feedback & Trip Reports Forum, please don't do so yet, at least until I get back. The people who will benefit from my Mini Big Wall Tutorials are really only the Aid Climbing Forum users and readers, so this is the logical place to leave the post for now. Thanks!]

[ This Message was edited by: passthepitonspete on 2002-10-06 14:26 ]


apollodorus


Aug 10, 2002, 6:39 PM
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P.S. The only way to get to the rock and see the Lesson in action is to hump pigs full of water and gear

Just kidding.


spiffdog


Aug 11, 2002, 2:49 PM
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I may be in Tuolumne during the tutorial, but I will be in the valley proper a few days later. Looking forward to big wall tips and fine brew! I'll have wheels, so if you haven't fetched your gear by the time I arrive, I can give you a lift.

Spiff


joebuzz


Aug 11, 2002, 5:19 PM
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I'm ready for an appointment; Dr. I live just outside the valley in Oakhurst.I would love to do your clinic and help carry the pigs. I can be reached at (tahoejoebuzz@hotmail.com) or call me at (559)642-3874.


mrhardgrit


Aug 11, 2002, 8:26 PM
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Pete,

Yeh, I'n in the Valley from the 5th Sept to 15 Oct! It will be great to meet up with you again (and no doubt hear some of your crazy wall tunes blasting out ... or a personal rendition of some Mozart?!).

(For those who don't know) --> I met Pete on top of El Cap last year after he had soloed Zenyatta Mondatta and he truely was mine, Rich's and Nate's Wall Doctor!

I'll be on Mescalito and ZM this trip ... amongst others, so when I'm on the ground I'll definitely see you in Camp 5 and will help on gear stashing/hiking etc if poss!

Tom

[ This Message was edited by: mrhardgrit on 2002-08-11 20:28 ]


addiroids


Aug 11, 2002, 9:30 PM
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So, this ungrateful, lazy, insurance salesman needs help again. Like 5 sherpas weren't enough in the spring he now needs more!! What has he done for us...

Ohhh yeah, he has made everyone's life who reads this aid forum (and that actually aid climbs) much easier (or just more comfortable...this stuff is never easy) and given us the tools and knowledge (notice I did not say wisdom) to ascend the BiG StOnE.

Unfortunately as a Personal Trainer at Bally's (might as well use that Exercise Science degree for something besides getting into medical school), they actually expect me to train people rather than just take off for the Valley during the month of September. And while my birthday just happens to fall 1 week prior (plus about 17 years) to the good Doctor's, and although I asked him to come up with a birthday challenge for me (to which he never responded), I cannot take the time off. However, I will still be climbing The Nose in late Sept.

So while I may not be available, I would encourage anyone willing to help, to do so. Pete is a funny guy and great to hang out with over some brews (and watching his beautiful wall partner was a plus too). So help his scrawny arse out, eh?

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


justsendingits


Aug 12, 2002, 1:50 AM
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Pete,don't know the dates for sure,but it looks like I will be in the valley the very end of Sept.--thru mid Oct.---Will miss you tutorial,but I have gotten vauleble info from u on the aid forum.

Thnx for the time and effort,and the insperation!!!

Cheers

R


taxexile


Aug 12, 2002, 8:31 AM
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Adds
When I was a student in Dundee my local pub was called Ballys! We did most of our training there too...I never realised you could do that for a living, though.


ubangie


Aug 12, 2002, 8:56 AM
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Hey Pete,

I'll be there if I can find a ride to the valley

excuse me while I try to kill two birds with one post here...

Doki,
are you ready for yet another valley road trip this year?


doki


Aug 12, 2002, 9:06 AM
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Lets go!

DOKI


drunkenmonkey


Aug 13, 2002, 9:45 AM
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Pete

i'll be in the valley from 2nd Sept to 6th Oct, not sure where we're staying at the moment so if anyone has any good ideas i would be interested. camp 4 info i.e when to get in the que etc would b welcome. we'll have a motor so can help out with stuff. you can get me on either of the following contact details in the valley
patrickbird55@hotmail.com
or +447815 907 480.

we will come and visit you in camp 5 once we've worked out where it is. Big wall newbies come to pick a cherry or two (oh god i hope all the practice works for us, i can't wait - two and a half weeks and counting)

p


passthepitonspete


Aug 13, 2002, 10:17 AM
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You have an ace in the hole, Patrick -

me.

Hang out, show me your stuff, how it's set up, we'll talk, drink beer, schlep loads, drink more beer, draw diagrams, ask and answer questions, and mostly have a pisspot full of fun!

I'm so looking forward to meeting you, your mates, and everyone else!

What better place for a gathering of Kindred Spirits?!

It's hard to offer a guarantee to success, but I can at least guarantee you this:

Hang out with me, and you will LEARN STUFF.

And the more stuff you learn, the better your chances of success.

The rest is up to you, mate.


wiegs


Aug 13, 2002, 10:51 AM
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You have no idea how much I want to be there. ARGH!


hollyclimber


Aug 13, 2002, 12:03 PM
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This would be hard, but...

We should all meet up at some point...
I will arrive on Sept 1. We will probably spend Sept 1/2 settling in and racking up.

I guess maybe Pete's place will end up being a wall climber gathering point.

Also, since I plan on climbing Eagle's Way starting Sept 3/4 (fixing/climbing), it sounds like Dr. Piton and I will be wall neighbors...at least for awhile.

Holly

[ This Message was edited by: hollyclimber on 2002-08-13 12:05 ]


drunkenmonkey


Aug 13, 2002, 12:44 PM
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Pete

there's no doubt about that, what are your plans/dates for getting on routes etc. we want to get some QUALITY TIME to pick your brains. in between schlepping loads no doubt!! Ah well, will make up for not doing enough fitness training. look forward to meeting the rest of the RC gang who will be there at the same time.


passthepitonspete


Aug 13, 2002, 4:07 PM
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My specific game plan, at least at the time of writing, is as follows:

I fly to SFO on Tuesday Aug 27, and arrive at 10 a.m. This is a couple hours earlier than I usually arrive, but I suspect that after making the bus and train connections from San Francisco I will still end up staying the night of August 27 in Merced, at the PJ Happy Inn, because I will arrive to late to make the last bus to Yosemite.

I will likely arrive in Camp 5, the bear boxes in the centre of the Curry Village parking lot, around 9:30 a.m Wednesday August 28 when the bus from Merced arrives.

This assumes I cannot get a ride from anyone from San Fran.

My main problem at the moment is I need a ride to Hans Florine's place to get all my wall gear which I left there this spring. Hans lives only about a twenty minute drive from Camp 5 up in Yosemite West.

At present, I have no ride to get all my gear, and am therefore 100% reliant on the benevolence of person unknown at present!

Here is your Dr. Piton [hint]:

HELP!

Assuming I can get my stuff, and assuming there are enough people around to help, I would do some wall tutorial, beer drinking and Pizza Deck-ing on the afternoon/evening of Wednesday August 28, and then the coffee thing on Thursday morning the 29th.

It is on the Wednesday during the day, when I am sorting all my crap on top of the bear boxes, that I can show you how everything fits together, all the modifications I have made to my gear, offer various big wall tips, and answer the myriad of questions everybody always seems to have.

I enjoy answering questions - makes me feel like I actually know what I'm doing! So bring pen and notepaper. If you have your gear around for me to look at, so much the better.

Oh yeah, I should also mention, if anyone can score me a few bear boxes ahead of time, that would really help! I need about three, please.

It is my hope that we can gather enough interested bodies to schlep all my junk up to the base of El Cap's Lunar Eclipse, which is immediately right of Zodiac, the afternoon of August 29th or thereabouts.

It will be at the base when I actually start climbing that you can see the systems in action. This is very worthwhile because you'll see all the solo systems being put to work - climbing, tagging, hauling, far end hauler, everything. In fact, it'll be worth the schlep just to get a look at the Russian Aiders in action - those things are SO RAD you won't believe it!

So the other half of the tutorial takes place actually at the wall.

I'm pretty sure we'll get enough interested bodies that none of us will have too much to carry. I really hope so! These off-the-couch ascents are hard enough without getting tired on the walk up.

Sheesh.

I'm guessing I'll fix pitches for a couple days, then spend about a week or eight days on the wall, about the same as I did for my solo of Shortest Straw. On my last solo I actually had to slow down for fear of finishing with too much food, water and beer!

So maybe I'll be topping out around September 7 or 8 or thereabouts.

Now, I can definitely use some help from ground crew around this time, especially if anyone around has a Motorola two-way radio. Contact me via PM if you think you could be ground crew.

I should be hanging in Camp 5 resting up around September 8 to 11, waiting for Tom to arrive for our ascent of Scorched Earth, so if you're looking for some quality time, this is it.

Much of my climbing gear will already be up at the base, but I can sure help you out with all your stuff, getting it rigged and sussed and wall-ready.

Tom [apollodorus] and I will be looking for some help with our carries up to the base of Scorched Earth - same start as the Trip which is in the trees left of Zodiac - around Sept 11, so you can see the systems in action then, too.

I haven't told Tom this, but Tom's soloing the first two pitches, which are pretty easy.

Note:

Tom's first roped solo climbing took place a few days after he stepped off the couch after eighteen years, when we began "leading in blocks" up on Excalibur.

ANY of you can learn to solo if you want - I can hang out at the base with my binocs and watch you as you climb, and offer helpful and smartassed suggestions to enhance your solo climbing pleasure!

It worked for Tom - ask him.

Cheers,

"Pass the Pitons" Pete

a.k.a. Dr. Piton

P.S. There should be lots of stuff happening here around this time!

Hottieclimber is going to be on Eagle's Way,

Mr.HardGrit [Tom] is soloing Z.M.

Justsendingits [Rich] has announced he'll be soloing Muir Wall, so I'll recruit his ass again with any luck!

It's shaping up to be quite the gig!

CAMP 5 - Be there, or be square!

And like, bring beer, please, eh? Sierra Nevada porter with the blue label is my favourite!

Thanks!


spike


Aug 13, 2002, 4:52 PM
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Hi Pete,
I will be in YV Aug. 27 thru Sept.4th.
Planning on doing Skull Queen on Wahsington
Column if partner Ben can get time off.
After soloing WFLT and doing 3 other walls this year, I am not up for another solo.
If no partner, I WILL ATTEND YOUR SEMINAR, and help you get the gear to the base of the
climb (training) PLUS take pictures. Maybe
solo a couple hard pitches on El Cap to stay in touch with the wall
Richard / SPIKE


passthepitonspete


Aug 13, 2002, 4:57 PM
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Having a bitchin' photographer like Richard would be The Shit!


rickoldskool


Aug 14, 2002, 10:22 AM
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Quote:I fly to SFO on Tuesday Aug 27, and arrive at 10 a.m. This is a couple hours earlier than I usually arrive, but I suspect that after making the bus and train connections from San Francisco I will still end up staying the night of August 27 in Merced, at the PJ Happy Inn, because I will arrive to late to make the last bus to Yosemite.
PTPP, Hows this Idea mate? Get your ass on a bus to say, sonora (cause I pass right thru there on my way to the ditch)I pick you up on the 28th early, drive you to Han's place (a bitchin' climber dude I'd like to meet) pick up your gear and drop you at camp 5. If I don't get lost I should be back from washington by then. Let me know what might work for you, eh?
P.S. At the very least I can drive you down to Han's place on the 28th. Cheers

[ This Message was edited by: rickoldskool on 2002-08-14 10:24 ]


freeclmr


Aug 15, 2002, 11:11 AM
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Ok, Pete....got your e-mail. Plans are set then.....Amtrack to Fresno..I'll pick you up at the station...mexican food, beer, free lodging, internet access, free park admission, ride to Han's and to the Valley (and I'll even let you flirt with my wife!! )
call me on my cell or at home.
Brian


passthepitonspete


Aug 25, 2002, 10:50 AM
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Hi y'all!

Well as you can see from Brian's note above, he has made me an offer I can't refuse!

Brian [freeclmr] and I will be arriving at Camp 5 around mid-day on Wednesday August 28, complete with all my stuff from Hans' which we will be picking up en route.

Let's plan on meeting at the Curry Village Pizza Deck for supper that evening! [It is four minutes' walk from Camp 5]

There should be quite the gang!

If for any reason you can't find us Wednesday night, please meet us at Camp 5 on Thursday morning August 29. [If for any reason I'm not there, please check the Koffee Korner in Curry, which is just inside the door from the Pizza Deck.

Depending on available sherpa resources, we'll make the carry up to the base on Thursday afternoon. The more the merrier, and the lighter the loads!

If you plan on making it for any of the dates in this post, or think you might, please post here.

I will have pretty good internet access right up to the morning of the 28th.

Stay in touch, eh?

Can't wait to meet y'all.

And dang, does that Mexican food ever sound bitchin'!

Thanks, Brian! You are most emphatically The Shit!

[What! Me flirt?! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!]


karlbaba


Aug 25, 2002, 6:58 PM
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Since I'm in Yosemite all the time and would love to meet folks and bask in Pete's glory, I'm hoping to hook up when possible. It's a busy season for me though so I can't commit to anything. (cept I'm climbing in the valley on the 29th, if the coffee thang is early enough, I'll be there, but, knowing Pete, it probably ain't) soo... mabye one of the beer gatherings.

If my schedule really, really turns out perfect, I could rehabilitate a wall warrior or two with a meal and hot tub on a free evening in Wawona.

PEace

karl


passthepitonspete


Aug 27, 2002, 10:40 PM
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Hi Y'all,

It's Tuesday night and I'm in Fresno at Brian's.

We drive to the Valley tomorrow. I'll check the bulletin board at Camp 4, then head over to "Camp 5" in the afternoon to stash my stuff in the bear boxes. We might make a partial carry up to the base of Lunar Eclipse Wednesday afternoon.

See you all at the Pizza Deck tonight! [tonight being Wednesday, eh?]

If you miss us then, please drop by Camp 4 Thursday morning, and we'll hang out, talk about systems, pack up my stuff, take it up to the base and I'll show you how it all fits together.

Brian and I were doing the mini-tutorial in his garage this afternoon. We added tethers and rear subracks to his big wall gear rack, and I showed him the Better Way to rig his aiders and daisies.

You should have seen his eyes light up when he exclaimed,

"I can't believe I never figured that out for myself! That'll save me so much work in the future!"

Come hang with Dr. Piton. Your eyes will light up when he shows you how to solve all the problems that have been bugging you for so long!

Yeah - it's even worth the cost of the schlep....

Cheers,

Pete aka The Doc

P.S. Brian's wife is a shagadelic hottie! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!


climbsomething


Sep 22, 2002, 6:58 PM
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Sept. 22... so, is Pete on the ground yet??

Well? IS HE??


krustyklimber


Sep 22, 2002, 7:10 PM
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Isn't it cool how we can keep track of our friends like this!

Jeff

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