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phaedrus
Nov 25, 2005, 11:52 PM
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Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti, and Ermanno Salvaterra have established a new route on the northern side of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Except for ascending three fixed ropes put up the day before their climb, the three climbed the route in alpine style, a first for a new route on Cerro Torre. They reached the summit late at night on November 13 and then descended the following day.
The new route starts on the eastern flank of the peak and follows the dihedral climbed by Cesare Maestri, Toni Egger and Cesarino Fava in 1959. Above what is now believed to be Maestri’s high point, they continued to the Col of Conquest, between Cerro Torre and Torre Egger, then ascended the Northwest Face for several pitches until they reached the North Ridge and North Face, which they followed until they could join the 1974 West Face route and continue to the summit. They climbed a total of 37 pitches to cover 1200 meters. The new route, called El Arca de los Vientos (“Arc of the Winds”), climbs much ground on or near Maestri’s claimed line, but the 2005 team did not find any sign of Maestri's climb above a gear stash very low on the mountain.
For more details and photos of the climb, go to: http://www.colmar.it/ (Open the English version of the site, and click on the Patagonia 2005 logo.)
http://climbing.com/news/cerrotorrenf/
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paganmonkeyboy
Dec 16, 2005, 7:57 PM
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whoa
pretty cool stuff
and it looks like they didn't have to wear those matching fur-hooded colorful parkas like the chicks on the website...:D
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socialclimber
Jan 26, 2006, 7:22 AM
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25 January, 2006
By Mick Ryan
Last November, using Yosemite speed climbing techniques, Rolando Garibotti, Ermanno Salvaterra and Alessandro Beltrami climbed, alpine-style, the 37-pitch El Arca de los Vientos (Ark of the Winds) 5.11 A2 on the northern flank of Cerro Torre (3102m). The crux was the notorious summit snow mushrooms. They descended by Cesare Maestri's 1970's first ascent the Compressor Route. El Arca de los Vientos climbs near the North Face of Cerro Torre route claimed by Cesare Maestri, and climbed with Toni Egger in 1959.
This 1959 ascent, was hailed by Lionel Terray as "the greatest climbing feat of all time" but has for the last 47 years been shrouded in doubt. Numerous climbers have claimed the Maestri ascent as a hoax and now there is further evidence. After his teams ascent of Arca de los Vientos Italian-born Argentinean Rolando Garibotti said in this months Rock and Ice magazine (issue 148, March 2006) that, " Being there, and having read Maestri's descriptions of the route, we felt it became very obvious that Maestri was never there. Where he described 50- to 60-degree terrain we found vertical rock. Maestri said he placed 70 bolts in the 400-metre section from the Col de Conquest to the west ridge. Had they been there, we would have seen at least one, we found nothing."
Duane Raleigh of Rock and Ice magazine says, "The 1974 ascent of the remote West face by the Italian Casimiro Ferrar and his team of "Lecco Spiders" now stands as the first true ascent of Cerro Torre.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/...index.html#item22261
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paolo75
Jan 26, 2006, 1:22 PM
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here a very, very interesting discussion on the Italian forum planetmountain
http://www.forum.planetmountain.com/...iewtopic.php?t=16002, with some posts of Ermanno Salvaterra.
It's in Italian, so could be difficult for some of you of understanding. Here a short translation on one of the posts of Ermanno S.
In reply to: Ciao, rispondo solo questa volta perché proprio non ho tempo di fermarmi. La parete come la descrissero loro non l'abbiamo trovata. Quando abbiamo fatto l'invernale al Torre la roccia, dal grande traverso obliquo in su, era incrostata da uno strato di ghiaccio schiumoso, inconsistente, dello spessore che andava dai 10 ai 30-40 centimetri. Dico inconsistente perche non potrebbe essere usato a salire nemmeno per pochi metri. Nemmeno il ghiaccio dei funghi sommitali riusciva a sorreggerci ed è stata un grande lotta salirli. E poi, come farebbe anche il più bravo artista o muratore a trasformare una parete verticale o di 80° ad una parete di 50°-60°? Ciao a tutti e buona continuazione.
Kind of translation: "Hi, I reply only this time since I have no time to stop here now. We didn't find the wall as they descrived. When we did the winter climb at the Cerro Torre the rock, from and after the big obliquely traverse , was covered of frothy ice, delicate, with a thickness from 10 to 30-40 cm. I said delicate because it wouldn't be possible to climb it, even for few meters. Nether the ice on the summit mushrooms was good enough to support us. And then, how could the best artist or carpenter transform a vertical or 80° wall into a 50°-60° one? Cheers."
I hope you can undestand this and that can help your discussion.
Cheers.
Paolo
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esp71
Jan 26, 2006, 2:30 PM
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I kinda thought this ascent was considered to be bogus already.
Jim Donini had a very similar experience back in the '70's, finding Maestri's descriptions to be way off and seeing no gear above a certain point. Donini has been telling this story for some time in his slideshows.
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roy_hinkley_jr
Jan 26, 2006, 9:12 PM
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Yep, this is very old news. The Maestri climb was discredited long ago.
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socialclimber
Jan 27, 2006, 5:12 AM
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In reply to: Pathetically old news. Perhaps the reporter should do a little research ...
You can contact he reporter via this link
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