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dawgcatching
Aug 15, 2002, 1:24 AM
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Registered: Aug 15, 2002
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2.5 years ago, I recieved a badly-strained tendon. I was pulling into a dyno from a 2 finger pocket. I missed the dyno and came down onto those 2 fingers (index and middle finger). It strained the tendon attached to my little finger. Lots of pain in the wrist and forearm. Anyways, climbed on and off for 6 months, but the pain always came back soon after I had started up again. So, I quit completely, and started climbing again last month. Even though I have not climbed in 2 years, the pain has never completely receeded. I get it while writing, picking things up, ect.
Okay, so I am climbing again. The pain seems to receed when I have been climbing, until now when it is picking up substantially. Looking at my pinkie finger, I cannot extend it as far as my uninjured pinkie. Pain comes when I am crimping on say a 3-finger hold, neglecting my little pinkie, which is stressed somehow. Obviously the injury should be completely healed after 2.5 years, so what am I doing wrong? Should I be taping a certain way? What about stretching? Massage? Specific exercises to increase extension and strength in the little pinkie? Should I just pull a Tommy Caldwell and cut it off? I am off to a PT this week, but I was hoping for some background before I go in. Thanks!
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collegekid
Aug 15, 2002, 1:35 AM
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i don't know much about this...but stretching probably couldn't hurt. Just make sure to stretch it lightly, not to the point of feeling pain. Try stretching all the fingers on that hand, since i'm pretty sure all their tendons are connected somehow.
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krustyklimber
Aug 15, 2002, 1:38 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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Sounds to me like you never let it heal completely, and continued re-injury has taken it's toll. (something I know way too much about)
I wish you the best of luck with it!
Jeff
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waxman
Aug 15, 2002, 1:41 AM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2002
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Yeah.....Try stretching. Or go the older generation's route by simply saying to yourself, "No Pain, NO Gain!" Just kidding.
Keep on rockin' in a free world!
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dawgcatching
Aug 15, 2002, 2:02 AM
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I do stretch. I was stretching that specific finger (the pinkie which is injured) and now the pain is worse. What specific stretches are you speaking of? Whole hand or individual finger?
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moonshine
Aug 15, 2002, 2:54 AM
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Registered: Mar 23, 2002
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had a similar problem with ring and middle finger and palm tendons. didnt boulder or climb sport for two years. did lots of hand jamming and easy multipitch. this last year, i tape my fingers for anything at or above my limit, but dont tape for easy/warm up stuff. they have gotten stronger but it takes a LONG time-dont rush it. if possible dont do any hard climbing (pockets/crimper) all winter-just slopers. work roofs with jugs. my slab climbing also improved a lot. massage therapy also helps if you can afford it. good luck
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dawgcatching
Aug 15, 2002, 3:58 PM
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sounds very similiar to my symptoms and pain when I use crimpers. How long is "a very long time"? What is the time frame for climbing easier routes and non-crimpers? 6 months, a year? Strengthening will help?
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