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jacobbelsher
Feb 8, 2006, 11:51 PM
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when jamming a thin hands crack what factors influence your decision to jam with your palms in, or with your palms out?
thanks
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caughtinside
Feb 8, 2006, 11:56 PM
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The shape of the crack.
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jacobbelsher
Feb 8, 2006, 11:58 PM
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care to elaborate?
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curt
Feb 9, 2006, 12:00 AM
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Since the correct answer has already been given, this thread should now end.
Theoretically......haha.
Curt
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jsoper
Feb 9, 2006, 12:02 AM
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jamming with your palms out (i.e. thumbs down) make your hands cam in the crack, wile palms in are more for jamming. i suggest you get out there and try some different ways of jamming on varing width cracks on top rope.
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caughtinside
Feb 9, 2006, 12:02 AM
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Not sure how much I can add. I try to jam palms in first, since I think it's more comfortable/natural. If it feels rattly, I might try palms out.
But, I usually think of it more in terms of thumbs up (palms in) or thumbs down (palms out).
The base of the thumb is the fat part of your hand, so keep that in mind. Often a rattly thumbs up jam will get more solid if you go thumbs down.
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dingus
Feb 9, 2006, 12:02 AM
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For me its more a 'thumb up' or 'thumb down' issue. Cruising a hand crack, strong feet in control, thumbs UP baby. Its difficult to get a good thumbs up jam way over your head however, so you have to either reach lower, or go toa thumbs down mode to get the higher jam.
Thumbs down is the CRANK position, but it doesn't 'travel well.' In that as you move up over a thumbs down jam you will either get to a point where you have to reset the jam or you will allow your jam to rotate... number one reason for crack climbing gobis.
Sometimes a crack's orientation lends itself to thumb up thumb down combos where rather than leap frogging the jams up the crack you sorta shuffle them up, the top hand stays on top, thumb down, while the bottom hand stays on the bottom, thumb up.
The old school Prattsers I know suggest this... go thumbs up for both hands whenever you can. This will foster the best technique. Use thumbs down for distant jams, those times when you bloody well need to crank or when the crack prevents you from leap frogging.
These are the observations of a punter. YMMV.
DMT
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slhappy
Feb 9, 2006, 12:05 AM
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In reply to: The shape of the crack.
Since the correct answer has already been given, this thread should now end. BINGO.
3 PAGES...
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pindrvr75
Feb 9, 2006, 12:05 AM
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I would think the orientation of your hand placement should give the most secure hold without being awkward to prevent further movement.
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jacobbelsher
Feb 9, 2006, 12:26 AM
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dingus. thanks for the food for thought.
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sbaclimber
Feb 9, 2006, 12:47 AM
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In reply to: dingus. thanks for the food for thought. |
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far_east_climber
Feb 12, 2006, 4:38 PM
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How can we determine what is truly in and what is truly out?
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