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Palms in or out?
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jacobbelsher


Feb 8, 2006, 3:51 PM
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Palms in or out?
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when jamming a thin hands crack what factors influence your decision to jam with your palms in, or with your palms out?
thanks


caughtinside


Feb 8, 2006, 3:56 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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The shape of the crack.


jacobbelsher


Feb 8, 2006, 3:58 PM
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care to elaborate?


curt


Feb 8, 2006, 4:00 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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Since the correct answer has already been given, this thread should now end.




Theoretically......haha.

Curt


jsoper


Feb 8, 2006, 4:02 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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jamming with your palms out (i.e. thumbs down) make your hands cam in the crack, wile palms in are more for jamming. i suggest you get out there and try some different ways of jamming on varing width cracks on top rope.


caughtinside


Feb 8, 2006, 4:02 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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Not sure how much I can add. I try to jam palms in first, since I think it's more comfortable/natural. If it feels rattly, I might try palms out.

But, I usually think of it more in terms of thumbs up (palms in) or thumbs down (palms out).

The base of the thumb is the fat part of your hand, so keep that in mind. Often a rattly thumbs up jam will get more solid if you go thumbs down.


dingus


Feb 8, 2006, 4:02 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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For me its more a 'thumb up' or 'thumb down' issue. Cruising a hand crack, strong feet in control, thumbs UP baby. Its difficult to get a good thumbs up jam way over your head however, so you have to either reach lower, or go toa thumbs down mode to get the higher jam.

Thumbs down is the CRANK position, but it doesn't 'travel well.' In that as you move up over a thumbs down jam you will either get to a point where you have to reset the jam or you will allow your jam to rotate... number one reason for crack climbing gobis.

Sometimes a crack's orientation lends itself to thumb up thumb down combos where rather than leap frogging the jams up the crack you sorta shuffle them up, the top hand stays on top, thumb down, while the bottom hand stays on the bottom, thumb up.

The old school Prattsers I know suggest this... go thumbs up for both hands whenever you can. This will foster the best technique. Use thumbs down for distant jams, those times when you bloody well need to crank or when the crack prevents you from leap frogging.

These are the observations of a punter. YMMV.

DMT


slhappy


Feb 8, 2006, 4:05 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
The shape of the crack.
BINGO.

Since the correct answer has already been given, this thread should now end. BINGO.

3 PAGES...


pindrvr75


Feb 8, 2006, 4:05 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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I would think the orientation of your hand placement should give the most secure hold without being awkward to prevent further movement.


jacobbelsher


Feb 8, 2006, 4:26 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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dingus. thanks for the food for thought.


sbaclimber


Feb 8, 2006, 4:47 PM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
dingus. thanks for the food for thought.
I actually fully agree with what Dingus has said. (too?) Simply put, thumb up=below the shoulders, thumb down=above the shoulders. But if you have a bomber thumb down jam above your head, be aware that you will need to move/reset it when it gets to your chest.


far_east_climber


Feb 12, 2006, 8:38 AM
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Re: Palms in or out? [In reply to]
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How can we determine what is truly in and what is truly out?


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