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I would like to climb on the Utah cracks
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ballakano


Feb 18, 2006, 11:30 PM
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Re: I would like to climb on the Utah cracks [In reply to]
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Sounds to me like this dude is bound for disaster, or at least disappointment. I can't say it's the wost idea in the world to head out to the Creek with no trad experience, but it's really not the brightest idea. Placing cams in splitter cracks can require a fair amount of technique, but it's not rocket science. I'm sort of an advocate of the trial-by-fire learning method, so I don't think it's a terrible idea to jump head first into Moab trad, but you may not enjoy the experience as much as if you knew what you were getting into. I'd definitely stay away from the towers. That is a disaster waiting to happen. Multi-pitch trad with no experience = BAD

what can happen to me more than die?!?

but probably you never seen a sardinian guy die... it's an incredible show!
we can spalsh on the ground in thousand of different ways.

man I love comics and I love calvin and hobbes I have all the books here in my house... so don't worry about my life, is just a life!

see u somewhere


marc801


Feb 18, 2006, 11:34 PM
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what can happen to me more than die?!?
You dying isn't that big a deal, but it kinda screws up the day for the folks who have to clean up your mess. :wink:


ballakano


Feb 18, 2006, 11:36 PM
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Re: I would like to climb on the Utah cracks [In reply to]
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what can happen to me more than die?!?
You dying isn't that big a deal, but it kinda screws up the day for the folks who have to clean up your mess. :wink:

I'm a good boy, I'll try to die in a very clean way!!!


ballakano


Feb 20, 2006, 9:25 AM
Post #29 of 39 (3449 views)
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Re: I would like to climb on the Utah cracks [In reply to]
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hello

is still the sardinian climber! all your comments convince me the this trip is the right thing.

so now I need your experience again. I have to buy this strange things called friend or cams (is the same?). please write me which are the best, the sizes is better have, more or less the prices and where is more convenient to buy them.

in a few words only all I need to know about friends!

...I watched retour2send... minchia una cosa incredibile!!!


Partner csgambill


Feb 20, 2006, 7:23 PM
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Re: I would like to climb on the Utah cracks [In reply to]
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Sounds to me like this dude is bound for disaster, or at least disappointment. I can't say it's the wost idea in the world to head out to the Creek with no trad experience, but it's really not the brightest idea. Placing cams in splitter cracks can require a fair amount of technique, but it's not rocket science. I'm sort of an advocate of the trial-by-fire learning method, so I don't think it's a terrible idea to jump head first into Moab trad, but you may not enjoy the experience as much as if you knew what you were getting into. I'd definitely stay away from the towers. That is a disaster waiting to happen. Multi-pitch trad with no experience = BAD

what can happen to me more than die?!?

but probably you never seen a sardinian guy die... it's an incredible show!
we can spalsh on the ground in thousand of different ways.

man I love comics and I love calvin and hobbes I have all the books here in my house... so don't worry about my life, is just a life!

see u somewhere

Hell, I don't particularly care if you die or not. No doubt it'd be a bummer, and I wouldn't be happy about it. But I'll be out there at the same time and I don't want to cary your stinky sardinian corpse out of there on a litter. And the cleanup... bloodstains are so difficult to get out of slickrock. I've got better things to do and towers to climb... I didn't say don't go. I just said stay away from trad multi-pitch. You should have fun at the Creek or Wall Street.

Calvin and Hobbes does rock. Was always one of my favorites when I was a kid.

See ya in Moab!


ballakano


Feb 20, 2006, 7:38 PM
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Hell, I don't particularly care if you die or not. No doubt it'd be a bummer, and I wouldn't be happy about it. But I'll be out there at the same time and I don't want to cary your stinky sardinian corpse out of there on a litter. And the cleanup... bloodstains are so difficult to get out of slickrock. I've got better things to do and towers to climb... I didn't say don't go. I just said stay away from trad multi-pitch. You should have fun at the Creek or Wall Street.

Calvin and Hobbes does rock. Was always one of my favorites when I was a kid.

See ya in Moab!


...of course when I was kid too!! now I prefer pictures with no ballons.

I'll try to stay away from your trad multi-picth, but this words sound so exciting... trad... multi... picht... die... blood... towers

...the last thing: my body is not stinky... never!


rock_ranger


Feb 20, 2006, 7:43 PM
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ballakano, when are you planning your trip? I will be with a group of climbers at Indian Creek April 17th-29th. You are welcome to come climb with us :D


Partner csgambill


Feb 20, 2006, 7:57 PM
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Re: I would like to climb on the Utah cracks [In reply to]
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...the last thing: my body is not stinky... never!

Do Sardinian's bodies posthumously self-enbalm? Cool. Otherwise it would probably stink.


marc801


Feb 20, 2006, 8:44 PM
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I have to buy this strange things called friend or cams (is the same?). please write me which are the best, the sizes is better have, more or less the prices and where is more convenient to buy them.
Friends are one type/brand of cams - there are many others. Which are best? It's very much a matter of personal preference based on experience. If you search the gear forum here I'm sure you'll find many opinions, some possibly even based on knowledge.

Sizes: depends on the size cracks you intend to climb, however, if just starting out, you probably won't need many of the extremely small or very large. There is no standard sizing by the way. Each manufacturer decides on their own sizes and there can be no correlation between manufacturers.

Prices: these aren't cheap items, typically between $35US and $70US each. The larger sizes can go over $100US. Mountain Gear (mgear.com) happens to have a full set of BD Camalots (9 cams, one of each size) on sale for just under $600US. Remember that it's not unusual for an Indian Creek climb to require 10 cams of the same size. An IC crack can be 40mm - 50mm wide for 50m. Thus it's not uncommon for multiple parties to pool their resources since few climbers have spent the thousands of dollars necessary to have many multiples of many sizes. The woman in this photo is weaing over $1200 in gear.

Where to buy: If you're going to buy them here, REI, IME, Black Diamond, and Kirkham's in Salt Lake City and Pagan Mountaineering in Moab. Remember to account for the added weight and bulk on your return trip to Sardinia.


ballakano


Feb 20, 2006, 9:45 PM
Post #35 of 39 (3449 views)
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Re: I would like to climb on the Utah cracks [In reply to]
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...the last thing: my body is not stinky... never!

Do Sardinian's bodies posthumously self-enbalm? Cool. Otherwise it would probably stink.

sardinian are a different kind of humans, never stink... when they fall down and die they atomizes like vampires in the sun. in the air you can smell just a good red wine bouquet.

thanks to the other guys for the good informations


elvislegs


Feb 20, 2006, 10:25 PM
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you go ball. find some partners, enjoy the creek, you'll do fine.


rocks4jules


May 2, 2006, 1:06 AM
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:D Signed up and ready to go. I will be there with my climbing partner May 6 - 8th. Hope to see some of you there. Be sure to say hello to me "rocks4jules!!!" Bye for now. :lol:

Cheers!!!


tradmanclimbs


May 4, 2006, 12:02 AM
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I don't see what the problem is? The guy sounds strong and Indian creek is the perfect place to plug cams. Its not even close to rocket science. Just plug and go and plug and slide and pretend that your feet don't hurt :D Bolts at the top to rap from. Definatly stay away from towers unless you can hook up with a desert rat to show you arround. Good luck.


rocks4jules


May 14, 2006, 5:50 AM
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:lol: Just got back a few days ago from Indian Creek climbing. It was AWESOME!!! Splitter camps is quite worth the cost. Greg Childs was a very good instructor and climbing buddy. Anyway, sorry I missed you all. I was there. Take care and hope to see you soon.

Jules

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