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East Buttress of El Cap
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markd


Aug 16, 2002, 10:27 PM
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East Buttress of El Cap  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park: Yosemite_Valley: El_Capitan)
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I'm interested in climbing the East Buttress route on El Cap this Fall. I'm wondering if anyone has done the route and has any beta.
-route finding
-protection
-descent


[ This Message was edited by: cass on 2002-08-17 05:59 ]


climbingcowboy


Aug 16, 2002, 10:40 PM
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East Buttress of El Cap [In reply to]
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 You should check out Supertopos.com you should be able to find out what you need there inadittion to what you find out here, they have topos with excellent descriptions, and they also have a forum to post the same question. Hope this helps (if you didnt already know). Have fun wish it was me.


apollodorus


Aug 16, 2002, 10:42 PM
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East Buttress of El Cap [In reply to]
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This is the way to get down the East Ledges Descent. I have personal knowledge that this way works. Plus, PTPP says that it's the best way.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=563


roughster


Aug 16, 2002, 11:33 PM
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I climbed this route 2 years ago. Heres what I remember:


Suggestion: Due to chimneys, don't bring a pack. Clip your approach shoes to your harness with a biner. BRING two 60 M ropes if possible to help you get down the East Ledges descent. Trust me you will be thankfull you did!

Approach: Just head in towards el cap from the meadow (any trail works) hit the base and go right. Trust me, just go right heheh

Follow along base till you almost walk off the edge of a cliff, there is simply nowhere else to go. Turn 90 left, and that flaring chimney crackish thing is the 1st pitch. You may have to back trace your steps about 10 feet if i remember right.

1st pitch: If you do it they we did it, was like 5.2 in hiking shoes with packs and is about 20 feet long. This gets you to the base of a left facing chimney crack thing.

2nd pitch: Up a chimney then overhanging dual seems on pins scars. Climbing is pretty easy but the top 30 feet is steep and intimidating.

3rd pitch, crux move of the whole route right off the anchors. Traverse right to a HUGE pinscar, just one tenious move. Stick with it and you'll have it in the bag. Crusie the flaring crack to the top. VERY enjoyable pitch. String the next short little pitch (pitch 4) of 4th class together if you have a 60 M.

5th pitch: From obvious ledge head up around a bush then traverse down and left to get to the obvious juggy face and arete. Thsi is the pic you always see people on. Classic 5.6 jugs.

6th pitch: Start off by walking aup and across the loose scree ledges. Be carefull of knocking large loose stuff off. Hit the slick water chute croner and keep climbing till a ledge on the right side of thegroove right before it verticals up.

7th pitch: Straight up the corner system to the vertical cracks and then pass an awkward move around the little roof and belay from above.

8th Pitch: I thought this pitch was harder than the 3rd. The crack is freaking awkward, the pro is flaring and some dipshit had pulled all the fixed pins when I did it. Not a pin in the entire pitch and it made for tricky pro. Not sure of its current state, but falling here is not an option in the 1st 30 feet. Pull into the huge chimney/left facing corner at belay from a good stance.

9th pitch: I thought from the topo that this 5.9 face would be scary but there is bolts and fixed pins. Almost a sport route pitch no joke. Classic face moves. I loved this pitch.

10th pitch: From stance at little left bending roof, traverse left and head up easy ramp to a HUGE ledge at the top.

11th pitch: Traverse right across a steep and exposed traverse though the climbing is easy, its kinda scary. once on the face head up the sea of sloper dish / knobs. Belay once you reach a obvious belay ledge.

12th pitch: More knobs and some crack stuff till you get to the top and there is a shitty slpping belay ledge. I opted for the full body squeeze behind the pillar as I didn't like the belay stance from the ledge. It felt like ti was pushing me out and I didn't like the pro all that well.

13th pitch: easy climbing till just a few feet short of the summit.

14th pitch: Grab the ropes and run to the top! Drink a beer if you got one

Descent: Traverse down and right from the top. How far you go before you rap really has to do with how comfortable you are scrambling on loose s--- above a death drop. HINT: its easiest if you stick close to the base of the cliff the further you go down.

Eventually the wall to your left starts to get these crazy funky dikes. When that happens, look to your right and you'll see a tree with a MILLION slings and a ton of ratty ropes. Thats what your life will rest upon.

Two 60 MS will allow you assured to reach the far anchors and require few raps. We didn't have 2 60s and we were scraed shitless rapping down the line. Bring two ropes, its worth the hassle on the way up to feel safe on the way down.

At the base, a short hike down passed the Nutcracker/Manure Pile Butress will drop you off at the road a bit aways from the meadow. Hike back to your car and offer a thanks to God for getting you through it ok.

Then remid God that it was me that gave you such good beta and to give me some extra Karma points

[ This Message was edited by: roughster on 2002-08-16 23:34 ]


rock_diva


Aug 17, 2002, 12:10 AM
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East Buttress of El Cap [In reply to]
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Wow Roughster... that's some great beta! Exactly as I remember it.

One thing to add... Pitch 9 also has an offwidth crack that you can climb if you like that sort of thing. We started up the offwidth but then traversed over to the face. Much easier! Also, the second rope is an excellent idea. Although it's a pain carrying it up all those pitches, it's really needed on the descent.


apollodorus


Aug 17, 2002, 2:03 AM
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East Buttress of El Cap [In reply to]
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you only need two 50 meter ropes for the raps on the East Ledges. It's the last rap that is long. And two 45 m ropes will work.


roughster


Aug 17, 2002, 6:51 AM
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East Buttress of El Cap [In reply to]
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Agreed Apollo:

My partner and I made it down with one 50M rope, but I wouldn't recommend doing that and I also would never do it again that way

2 50 Ms should work fine, but having the extra feet of 60 Ms would be best IMO.

I know I got more than a little freaked staring over the edge and hoping to God my ends reached--- SOMETHING! heheh


crackaddict


Aug 17, 2002, 8:34 AM
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East Buttress of El Cap [In reply to]
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Can't add much more to what roughster said. I did the route with rock_diva and she added th only info I would have. Just get ready for a fun route that has about every technique of climbing on it.

Get ready for lots of exposure, and lots of fun. There are rock carins that will lead you to the raps. Follow the Don Ried falcon guide discription. It will get you down.

Make sure to get a good look at the fixed lines left on the rap. Spooky!

We used 2 60m lines to rap with. Extra weight but extra piece of mind.

Good luck and happy climbing.


markd


Aug 17, 2002, 9:48 AM
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Thanks for all the great beta. Roughster, that was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time, all those details will surely help.


estwing


Aug 18, 2002, 8:31 AM
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East Buttress of El Cap [In reply to]
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All this talk about multi-pitch, and no mention of any big numbers , has sparked my interest. What Is the rating of this climb?

Have a nice day,
Sam


crackaddict


Aug 18, 2002, 8:53 AM
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East Buttress of El Cap [In reply to]
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5.9 is the rating.


pbjosh


Aug 18, 2002, 9:41 AM
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It's rated 5.10b in the guide book but in reality it's all

josh


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