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Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering?
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hildie_77


Mar 8, 2006, 3:10 PM
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Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering?
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I've sprained both ankles... And I really need a brace that would fit OK into my climbing shoes. During the day I wear Aircast braces to avoid re-trauma. But they're too big and don't at all work for climbing. I've also tried the Active ankle and it did not work (pinched my heal pretty bad).

I read an old thread in this forum where someone recommended the Mallaoloc brace from Bauerfeind. I've googled it, and must say it looks promising; A lot more snug fitting. And it's recommended for (barefoot) sand volleyball players. Most other braces need the support of a shoe.

Have anyone tried this brace? Was the support good? I plan on using it in combination with taping.

Hope someone knows this brace! I'm off to Font next month and I want to be able to climb :)


nas


Mar 14, 2006, 12:06 AM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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i have used the Mallaoloc when i was recovering from a broken ankle 6 months ago. i also had an aircast. the mallaoloc is a lot less bulky than the aircast, it provides good support but not as much as the aircast. i still found it hard to wear it with climbing shoes, i could do it but the back padding always got in the way and ended up not sitting in the right place if i wear my climbing shoe (i was not wearing my regular "very tight" shoes either). but when i used that, my ankle was still swollen so it could be better if its in its normal size.

hope this help.

kay


nas


Mar 14, 2006, 12:08 AM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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i have used the Mallaoloc when i was recovering from a broken ankle 6 months ago. i also had an aircast. the mallaoloc is a lot less bulky than the aircast, it provides good support but not as much as the aircast. i still found it hard to wear it with climbing shoes, i could do it but the back padding always got in the way and ended up not sitting in the right place if i wear my climbing shoe (i was not wearing my regular "very tight" shoes either). but when i used that, my ankle was still swollen so it could be better if its in its normal size.

hope this help.

kay


fearlessclimber


Mar 14, 2006, 7:11 PM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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i was just going to post something for sprained ankles because i just sprained mine very badly today, if i were to rate it from one to ten i would give it a 9 only because you will never feel the worst pain ever, it can always get worse. What are some treatment issue for this and what should i do for a quiccker recovery, help me out on this, i really want to go climbing for spring break. i am going to get x rays on it just incase and i am currently taking ibprofhen(anti-inflamitory drug) to keep the swelling down and take some of the sharp pain away. :( :( :(

i know that it will be at least weeks for that matter, i definately probly, maybe will be going climb very lightly for spring break.

Give me your experiences as it will help with a faster recovery for me, what tips can you give me. Thanks a bunch.

"pain is weakness leaving the body" unknown?


fearlessclimber


Mar 14, 2006, 7:16 PM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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i have heard of classifictaions for sprained ankels such as class (II/III) What do they mean, severity i suppose, what is a 1 2 3 ext.

thanks, eric


sharpshootr987


Mar 14, 2006, 8:42 PM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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Honestly, I dont think climbing on sprained ankles is the smartest thing to do. Rest it out then hit the wall, i have suffered many injuries and learned that climbing while injured only makes things worse.


pullhard84


Mar 14, 2006, 9:06 PM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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Keep it simple brother man just use a sam splint and an ace bandage thats what i use


peace
jeff


fearlessclimber


Mar 15, 2006, 9:58 AM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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i wasnt seggusting that i wwere to climb on it while it was sprained, i just want some tips on how to have a quicker recovery, therapy or something, to strenghten it.


stardrivin


Mar 15, 2006, 11:08 AM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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Here's my 2 cents.....

RICE - This will help the inflammation/pain (Rest Ice Compression Elevation) and Ibuprofen. If it hurts, don't do it. Yeah, we've all heard this b/f.........well it works.

Doesn't like much fun however. You know, sitting around waiting and waiting for it to get better and all. You want to get back out there climbing. When you get your x-rays see if you can find a good local podiatrist who deals with a lot of sports medicine. Athletes (even climbers) can be a total pain in the ass to work with as rest is often not on their agenda. A doc used to dealing with athletes is going to be more likely to find that "middle ground" with you (provided it doesn't impede healing). Moreover, this is the person who is going to hook you up with the best brace for your activity level (sorry I can't recommend one off the top of my head).

Grades
I - painful, but no increased laxity when compared to the uninjured side. This correlates with mild stretching of the ATFL.
Typically will heal 1-2 weeks

II - painful with increased laxity on testing. This correlates with complete tear of the ATFL (anterior talofibular lig) and partial tear of the CFL (calcaneal fibular lig).
Improved in 4 6 weeks

III - painful with an unstable ankle joint on examination. This correlates with complete ruptures of both the ATFL and CFL.
12 weeks plus

Any of these can be complicated by fractures (get x-rays). To really understand the "grade" you need an MRI or someone whose really good with an Ultra Sound. Also the healing times are only estimates and can be complicated by a number of factors (ie compliance, co-morbidities, etc).

Hope this helps a bit, good luck
doug


fearlessclimber


Mar 15, 2006, 3:26 PM
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Re: Sprained ankles, need info on good brace for bouldering? [In reply to]
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went to the doc and got x rays, there is nothing broken or fractured. i am guessing it is a class II sprain. because i have sprained my ankle before and it healed quickly, no swealing, this time it swealed up super big.

just iced it and did my ABC's.

Thanks for your help, i really apreciate it.


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