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oaktownrob
Aug 20, 2002, 5:47 AM
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Anyone want to head from the Bay Area to Auburn Limestone on Saturday, 8/24? (area was mentioned by roughster in another post, haevn't figured out how to link post yet, sorry). I haven't been there but got beta from roughster. It's all sport climbing, lots in the 5.10 range, about a 2hr drive from the Bay Area. I have car and gear just need safe partner(s). PM or email rbaillie@advent.com if you want to head up.
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roughster
Aug 20, 2002, 6:05 AM
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I would join you and give you the personal tour, but the Family and I are going camping up in the Sierras this weekend.
Some new beta from the topo I sent you: Just right of the long 10C on the Scale Wall is a new route called Landslide 5.8.
It is close to a full 80 feet so make sure you have an uncut 50M to get down or you may come up a bit short. It has 8 face bolts and of course a threadable anchor (by the way a TR can be set up w/o leading it by just walking around the backside of the cliff and leaning over and clipping the anchors). It is still a wee-bit dirty but it will clean up with time (hopefully ) The wind that has been kicking up the last few days should really help clean it up too
Great climbing that just keeps going. Starts slabby and finishes slightly overhung. Give it a run and tell me what you think! The next route on tap will be multi-pitch, so stay tuned for bolt clipping madness!
Another thing we did last weekend was do the traverse of the Memorial Wall base. Start to the left of the Plaque on an obvious rail, and then traveres the base of the wall all the way left to right till you are about 15-20 feet beyond Short Term Memory. Fun traverse that has a bit of everything and is probably V3 or so.
Finally, we did some River Bouldering as well. I will fill you guys in on the next edition of the topo about the killer watering hole to swim, cliff jump, boulder on.
Have fun! If you don't get out this weekend, I will back in action out there the weekend of the 31st, so drop me a PM.
P.S. Also depending on what topo I sent you, the route just right of M&M (I know you have that one on your topo) is called Scooby Snacks and is 5.9 (5 face bolts).
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eric
Aug 20, 2002, 3:49 PM
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Talked to Rob and he liked the idea of a group outing. Anyone else interested?
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roughster
Aug 20, 2002, 5:19 PM
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EDIT: Ok I just added all the routes to the route database for Auburn Limestone:
CLICK HERE for more info on Auburn Limestone
Reply this might help stir up interest:
All Sport Climbs:
5.7 X 1
5.8 X 2
5.9 X 3
5.10a x 3
5.10b x 1
5.10c x 1
5.10d x 1
5.11a x 1
5.12a x 1
5.12c x 1
So as you can see lots to get on out there. Not alot of hard stuff yet, but more is on the way along with some multi-pitch stuff.
2 Climbs on the Scale Wall can have a TR set up on them from the cliff top by just reaching over and clipping the anchors from the lip (The Unknown 10b and Landslide). You can then swing over and clip the anchors on neighboring climbs. I think if you don't mind swinging around, you could probably set a TR up on every route on the Scale Wall doing that.
The only thing to remember about this area is most of these routes have seen only a handfull of ascents. Routes like M&M, Scooby Snacks, and Landslide were all bolted within the last month. They are not perfectly cleaned yet, but every ascent will bring them closer to that stage
[ This Message was edited by: roughster on 2002-08-20 11:14 ]
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roughster
Aug 20, 2002, 6:15 PM
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bumpers
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oaktownrob
Aug 20, 2002, 8:04 PM
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roughster- thanks again for your help we'll let you know how it goes
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eric
Aug 23, 2002, 5:10 AM
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Just a note for anyone who's interested. We'll be heading up early Saturday morning -- we have one group meeting in Oakland at 7am and then we'll be joining another group at the crag. Looks like 5 people so far.
Anyone else?
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roughster
Aug 23, 2002, 9:23 AM
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Hope you guys have fun! Too bad I have had this camping trip planned for almost 6 months otherwise I would scrap it to go up and meet you guys!
If anyone likes what they see and want to climb out there more, drop me a PM!
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roughster
Aug 26, 2002, 12:18 AM
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Curiosity killed the cat....How did it go
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oaktownrob
Aug 26, 2002, 3:41 AM
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We had a great, full day of climbing. I think we did all but one of the routes on Scale wall and the two .10a's on Memorial wall. Some excellent routes, a lot of climbing all followed by a dip in the American River made for a perfect day.
Roughster, we owe you pizza and beer next time we come through, thanks for all your work on the area.
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eric
Aug 26, 2002, 6:32 AM
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A very satisfying day of climbing. I really like the area and plan to go back soon.
Great to climb with you guys!
And thanks Roughster! Those are some nice routes. Scooby Snacks and M&M in particular.
e
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captn_nemo
Aug 26, 2002, 8:43 PM
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The Auburn Limesone is sweet!!!
Thanks Roughster for opening up a really nice new area. We got on a lot of the routes and enjoyed some super fun moves and interesting rock features. Look forward to going back soon.
Thanks Eric and Rob for letting me tag along too. hope to get together again soon.
bob
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roughster
Aug 26, 2002, 10:29 PM
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I'm glad you guys liked it out there. Sometimes I wonder if my own time invested into developing an area can distort my perspective on the quality of climbing.
I personally feel there is few sport climbing resources in the Bay Area that can match Auburn in its current state, and I think by the end of this season, it could very easily become the best local climbing resource.
By the way: Auburn's prime season is from Late Sept-April and it is only going to get better temp-wise everyday from here on out hopefully.
I am hoping to get out this weekend begin bolting my 1st multi-pitch line out there. Beta will be forth coming as soon as the route is complete. Everytime I get out there I see line after line that I want to develop. I guess its just a matter of time before I get to them
P.S. For anyone interested, send me an email at Roughit3@aol.com and I can send you a topo for the area with direction/info etc...
I am putting together a Auburn Update email list if you would like to receive updates on new routes and updated topos.
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