|
waxman
Aug 18, 2002, 6:04 PM
Post #1 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 173
|
What is your favorite brand of cams and what is your favorite brand of nuts/stoppers?
|
|
|
|
|
beyond_gravity
Aug 18, 2002, 6:57 PM
Post #2 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 5078
|
Good ol' rail road nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
markd
Aug 18, 2002, 7:45 PM
Post #3 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2002
Posts: 147
|
I use Black Diamond Camalots and Metolius TCU's. I also use Black Diamond stoppers.
|
|
|
|
|
gunked
Aug 19, 2002, 6:12 AM
Post #4 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 615
|
Camalots & Aliens(smallest to yellow)
BD stoppers (4-13), HB offsets (all sizes), Metolius curved nuts (all sizes)
The HB's are great to supplement with and the Metolius' are awesome in flares (although I question their strength)
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Aug 19, 2002, 6:43 AM
Post #5 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
I like Camalots down to #.3, Tech Friends down to #1, Metolius TCU's up to #3 (orange) and Aliens. For offset cams I like aliens.
I like BD Stoppers a bit better than Rocks because of the sideways taper. I also like HB offsets, RP's, BD swedges and DMM peenuts for flairs, all good stuff. Don't care much for Metolious Curve nuts or various other gimmicky nuts... too funky / not straightforward to see if they're placed well.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Aug 19, 2002, 6:52 AM
Post #6 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
RPs to BD stoppers to Aliens to Camalots. Small HB QuadCams are also nice.
|
|
|
|
|
pir8penguin
Aug 19, 2002, 1:33 PM
Post #7 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2002
Posts: 350
|
bd stoppers, double up the big dogs. camalots are the best cams i've used (compared to friends at a close second and TCUs which i just don't dig that much). They have a huge range, but they're heavy. I've carried my rack + my partners and my nuts (double set) though...it's not that bad, just suck it up and climb!
|
|
|
|
|
tradklime
Aug 19, 2002, 3:12 PM
Post #8 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 1235
|
Aliens, smiley's nuts, BD micro stoppers.
|
|
|
|
|
radistrad
Aug 19, 2002, 3:32 PM
Post #9 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 800
|
Ailens and Hybrid Ailens, just love 'em. Fit in cracks like no other cam can and the Hybris are indepensible for pin scars on aid or free. Buy from black to orange.
Camalots, they just rule. I really like their range, the weight is worth the fit.
Buy from #.5 to #5
HB offset nuts, once again truly awesome pro especially for pin sacrs. Buy a full set.
Black Diamond Stoppers, the back bone of any rack of nuts. Buy a full set.
You really do get what you pay for.
-radistrad
note: red Ailen is the same range as .5 Camalot, the head is much narrower on the Ailens, same goes for Orange Ailen its the same range as .75 Camalot. I prefer the Ailens
[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-08-19 08:35 ]
|
|
|
|
|
climbjs
Aug 19, 2002, 3:55 PM
Post #10 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2002
Posts: 379
|
I like Wired Bliss cams and BD stoppers.
|
|
|
|
|
radistrad
Aug 19, 2002, 4:01 PM
Post #11 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 800
|
dang Cass... nice list of links... I found it easier to ansewer the question instead of listing all of the links.
two thumbs way up to you!
|
|
|
|
|
pir8penguin
Aug 19, 2002, 5:01 PM
Post #12 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2002
Posts: 350
|
i think i shoudl add something to what i said earlier...
mostly passive pro (in my opinion) is a little better to place. there are no moving parts, and if placed well are stronger than cams. the benefit of cams is ease and speed, so you may not use them all that much unless you have a lot of mone and all you want is a rack of cams. you should, if at all possible, really practice placing passive gear. i'm not an expert by any means, and this is only my opinion bsed on what i know about specific gear, but being able to place passive gear well will make you that much better at placing cams.
|
|
|
|
|
tradklime
Aug 19, 2002, 5:22 PM
Post #13 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 1235
|
Cams and passive pro both have their place. In parallel or flaring cracks, cams work best and sometimes are the only that will work. I think there is a misconception that cams are "easy" to place. They are quicker, but just as much thought and experience should be behind each placement. Passive and active pro are equally important tools in my opinion.
|
|
|
|
|
elmosity
Aug 19, 2002, 5:39 PM
Post #14 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2002
Posts: 18
|
I have the larger Calamots from 1 to 4. I like the sizing but don't like having to replace trigger cables.
The Metolius TCUs rule. Pretty durable. I have the yellow Alien which I place a lot.
I have a mix of BD Stoppers and WC Rocks. I seem to use the mid sizes the most. I have tried the Metolius Curve nuts. They seem good but I am content with what I have now.
|
|
|
|
|
fitz
Aug 20, 2002, 1:07 AM
Post #15 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 363
|
I'm going to have to ditto pbjosh, you can't go wrong with BD Camalots from .3 to 3. They aren't cheap, and they are a little heavy, but on most climbs, the sizing, range, and overlap is great.
Above 3, I'm not so enthusiastic. I have a 3.5 and a 4. I only bring them if I'm sure I'll need them. Above 4, I'd rather go to Big Bro's. It took a bit to get the hang of placing them, but I generally find them a lot more bomber than a big, wobbly #5 Camalot.
Below the .3 (about .6"), I'm not in love with anything CAM wise. I've played with Aliens, TCU's, etc. I usually spend too much energy placing something, then decide the placement is worthless, and waste even more energy placing nuts. I've only been looking at tiny cams a few months, but slotting nuts for a long time, so it is probably me, not the gear.
As for passive gear. I really like the smallest tricams (pinky to brown). I also really like the #7-#9 BD Hexes. I usually ditch the largest nuts (#10 WC, #12-13 BD), and carry these three Hexes instead. They are light and you get a lot of larger passive placemens out of them.
For the mountains, I'll often take #10 and #11 Hexes as well.
For stoppers, I've got a complete mish mash. Mostly BD and WC for larger sizes, and RPs, HB brass, and BD micro stoppers for small. If I had to choose specific brands, I'd probably go RP and BD.
-jjf
|
|
|
|
|
sagarmatha
Aug 20, 2002, 6:42 AM
Post #16 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 66
|
BD and Metolius stoppers, and then....WC rigid Friends, still today one of the best!
Cheers
|
|
|
|
|
waxman
Aug 21, 2002, 1:10 AM
Post #17 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 173
|
Thanks a lot everyone. You've helped me out a ton!!
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Aug 21, 2002, 1:41 AM
Post #18 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Metollius Fatcams. Nearly as easy to place as BDs, and TONS more secure in sandstone.
Stoppers? Stoppers? I don't need no stinking STOPPERS!!!
|
|
|
|
|
seamonkeyfight
Aug 21, 2002, 2:07 AM
Post #19 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 32
|
waxman- are you trying to figure out what to start building your rack with?
|
|
|
|
|
paintinhaler
Aug 21, 2002, 3:17 AM
Post #20 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2000
Posts: 715
|
everyone vote 10 for cass...
|
|
|
|
|
tradguy
Aug 23, 2002, 8:27 PM
Post #21 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526
|
Everyone else seems to love camalots. I will cast my vote in favor of Wild Country Tech Friends. Not only are they lighter and less prone to walking, but their range is very close to the camalots, and they are significantly cheaper. I also really like the Wired Bliss cams I got years ago.
DMM Walnuts get the nod for passive pro. They use a softer alloy that seems to stick better in hard, smooth rock. Plus, their various curves, grooves, and pockets seem to allow them to fit better in featured cracks.
I also really like the Wild Country curves hexes on dyneema. The gentle curves allow for better surface contact in many instances, and I prefer the supple dyneema to that stiff cable on the BD's and Metolius.
[ This Message was edited by: tradguy on 2002-08-25 14:21 ]
|
|
|
|
|
droche
Aug 25, 2002, 7:52 PM
Post #22 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 11
|
What do y'all think of the Omega Pacific scallops? I have an opportunity to get a set dirt cheap, but i've never used them.
|
|
|
|
|
waxman
Aug 26, 2002, 7:55 PM
Post #23 of 23
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 173
|
Thanks for all of your guys' imput!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
