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looking for easy bolted crack...
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worldonastrng


Mar 21, 2006, 10:10 PM
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looking for easy bolted crack...  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Salt_Lake_-_Utah_Counties: Rock_Canyon: Black_Rose)
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Here's why. I want to find an easy crack to practice trad placement on without commiting to falling on it. When I lived in eugene, OR this was easy because there's ploenty of easy cracks with walk-around TR-ing RIGHT DOWNTOWN. I'm sure such a route exists in the Boulder area. IS there an experienced Boulder climber that can point me in the right direction. This would REALLY help me get to the next level of climbing. Thank you and peace
Andrew


Partner gunksgoer


Mar 21, 2006, 10:13 PM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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Rumor has it there are a bunch of those up at the sport park...


healyje


Mar 21, 2006, 10:17 PM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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Andrew,

You're in one of the trad capitals of the world! There are endless routes at every grade. Skip the bolted crack and skip placing pro on top ropes too. Just get on whatever you do feel comfortable on even if it's a 5.5. But the best suggestion is still and always to second good trad climbers until you are comfortable on your own. And if you can't find someone to take you out trad climbing in Boulder then the climbing world has entered a total eclipse...


curt


Mar 21, 2006, 10:19 PM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Here's why. I want to find an easy crack to practice trad placement on without commiting to falling on it. When I lived in eugene, OR this was easy because there's ploenty of easy cracks with walk-around TR-ing RIGHT DOWNTOWN. I'm sure such a route exists in the Boulder area. IS there an experienced Boulder climber that can point me in the right direction. This would REALLY help me get to the next level of climbing. Thank you and peace
Andrew

I think everyone in Boulder climbs that way. Try contacting our own RC.com user, "bobd1953" for additional information. I'm pretty sure he's more than willing to help you out. If he suggests doing an undone route with him in the Black Canyon, though, you might want to pass. :D

Curt


healyje


Mar 21, 2006, 10:42 PM
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Ha!


rcory


Mar 21, 2006, 11:44 PM
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I would also like to know the where-abouts of an easy bolted crack climb, I need pratice chopping bolts on lead :D


lofstromc


Mar 22, 2006, 4:19 AM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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Dude,
WTF. Skip the bolts!
Find an easier climb and sew the thing up with gear.
That is how you learn.

:shock:


dutyje


Mar 22, 2006, 5:04 AM
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In reply to:
I would also like to know the where-abouts of an easy bolted crack climb, I need pratice chopping bolts on lead :D

:lol:

This gets my nomination for the Best First Post Ever... welcome to RC.com, rcory.


Partner sevrdhed


Mar 22, 2006, 5:41 AM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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Can't find an easy bolted crack? Kill several birds with one stone by bolting one yourself!

You'll learn valuable skills such as how to place gear well, while aiding up the crack... how to place bolts well while drilling next to the crack... how to replace bolts after your get chopped... how to be hated and ostracized by the climbing community forever... and line dancing!


Steve

P.S. Ok, I made that last one up.


Partner jammer


Mar 22, 2006, 5:50 AM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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T2 at best. Come on, what type of trad climber would even think about a bolted crack? :roll:


glyrocks


Mar 22, 2006, 7:06 AM
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sweet! another inane thread! keep it up, please, I'm so bored at work.


fng


Mar 22, 2006, 7:55 AM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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'Bolted crack'.....Now that is an oxymoron.


billcoe_


Mar 22, 2006, 8:16 AM
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Check your local climbing gym


pettsnjam


Mar 22, 2006, 8:21 AM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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There are so may things wrong with "looking for easy bolted crack"
No crack that can be protected with gear should ever be bolted (PERIOD!)
Dam crack climbing sport climbers.


breaksnclimbs


Mar 22, 2006, 8:27 AM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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Pick up a boulder canyon guide book and start climbing!! There are lots of crags in Boulder Canyon where you can walk around to the top to set up a TR anchor. Happy Hour crag comes to mind. Alot of routes there 5.5 to 5.11 to TR. I think it's a bit harder to find easy TR's in eldo seems like you have to lead most routes to get to the anchors. I mantion TR because you can mock lead that way. You have some one belay you on TR while you "lead".

rcory, that post made me laugh my ass off!!


laurajpetersen


Mar 22, 2006, 8:27 AM
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Re: looking for easy bolted crack... [In reply to]
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Before you start placing gear on lead... perfect your gear placement skills!! I can't stress that enough. After a while you'll probably be confident enough to actually climb and place gear without relying on a bolted crack--good luck finding one.

The best way I learned was to practice my gear placement skills until I was doing it in my sleep. Then, I practiced mock leads on top rope.

Lastly, I grew some balls.


dudemanbu


Mar 22, 2006, 8:28 AM
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In reply to:
I would also like to know the where-abouts of an easy bolted crack climb, I need pratice chopping bolts on lead :D

The one day out of the year that i can't give out trophies had to be today. Fear not, I have bookmarked your post, and will come back to it, and award it as it deserves.

Mother-fucking brilliant post mate.


krusher4


Mar 22, 2006, 8:32 AM
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Zen Garden wall. Rap in leave ropes and you can TR 4 cracks.


krusher4


Mar 22, 2006, 8:34 AM
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Zen Garden wall/Lost Angle-Dream Canyon. Rap in, leave ropes and you can TR 4 cracks.


dotc


Mar 22, 2006, 8:45 AM
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Or you could try leading a bolted climb on gear... John Sherman (I think it was a him anyway) wrote an article years ago, suggesting that if you can lead a bolted climb and find a good placement, instead of clipping a bolt, you should be allowed to chop the superfluous bolt. He called these "retro-trad" accents. Not a bad idea really.. :)

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...st_start=21&id=70945


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