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epicsaga
Apr 3, 2006, 1:51 AM
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Registered: May 21, 2003
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JOSHUA TREE TICK LIST
Any takers??
5.9
Cake walk
Comic book
Invisibility lessons
Popular mechanics
Rock candy
Sidewinder
5.10A
Bird of fire
Head over heals
5.10B
Caught outside on a big set
Dog day afternoon
Forbidden paradise
Right ski track
Rollerball
Space mountain
5.10C
Bearded cabbage
Clean and jerk
Ebgbs
Gritroof
O’kelleys crack
Sweat band
That old soft shoe
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cgranite
Apr 3, 2006, 1:56 AM
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you forgot "Lightsaber 5.10b"
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fredbob
Apr 3, 2006, 5:45 PM
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The Tick List has changed (stars and ratings and new routes)
On your list (a good one) ratings are as follows:
Cake Walk is 5.8
Comic Book is 5.10a
Sidewinder is 5.10b
Lower Right Ski Track 5.10b/c
Grit Roof is 5.11a (plate under roof broke off)
Old Soft Shoe is 5.10d
Sweat Band 5.10b
So many new classics now, but here are a few others (in Joshua Tree West) that should be on people's tick lists:
10a
Amanda
Ball Bearing
Blues Brothers
Buster Brown
Chalk Up Another One
Dos Chi Chis
Head Over Heals (on your list)
Left Route
Loose Lady
Love Gas
Norm
Pinched Rib
Prepackaged
Right Baskerville Crack
Tax Man
The Screaming Woman
Toby
Tossed Green
Waltz For Debbie
Watanobe Wall
Wounded Knee
5.10b
B For Beers
Firewater Chimney
Fisticuffs
Friendly Hands
Grain Surgery
Illusion Dweller
Jerry Brown
ladyfingers
Poodles Are People Too
Rollerball (mentiioned)
Run For Your Life
Sidewinder (mentioned)
Stepping Razor
The Sanga's On Fire
Through The Looking Glass
Too Secret To Find
Witch Hunt
5.10b/c
Bighorn Dihedral
Sig Alert
Fire or Retire
Left Mel Crack
Lower Right Ski Track (mentioned)
No Self Confidence
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murf
Apr 3, 2006, 6:08 PM
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In reply to: The Tick List has changed (stars and ratings and new routes)
Damn It!!
Cut it out!!
I have a ton of work to do but I made the mistake of bringing this:
http://www.globepequot.com/...es/0-7627-2965-1.jpg
to my desk.... I had successfully put it down, did a quick look at this thread, now I've had to look up Toby and Norm.
You can put together a sweet day with FW Chimmney, Waltz For Debbie, The Sanga's On Fire, and Witch Hunt!
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bluering
Apr 3, 2006, 6:31 PM
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How about Pictures at an Exhibition (5.10a??), Cherry Bomb (5.10c), and the classic...Solid Gold (5.10a)
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mhabicht
Apr 3, 2006, 6:46 PM
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I just want to say thanks... perfect list for me!
I also wanted to say that Cake Walk is a 5.8 UNLESS you are short. My wife cannot make the moves that transition left between the cracks since she is 5'1". She claims that this is a 5.11 move or harder if you cant reach the jug. and it becomes hard to protect too since she cant reach that key hold to place the next piece. Just a thought.
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southbayclimber
Apr 3, 2006, 6:47 PM
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fredbob,
what about other must-do's in the 5.9 and under range?
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fredbob
Apr 3, 2006, 7:12 PM
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The list is just for areas covered by Joshua Tree West (a little over 1/3 the Park). It would be too much work to actually generate a list for everything... still working on finishing up Central Joshua Tree.
5.9s
Ace of Spades
Dogleg
Dummy's Delight
North Overhang
Orphan
Overseer
Popular Mechanics
Rock Candy
Split Personality
Super Roof
Other 5.9s
Alice In Wonderjam
Colorado Crack (maybe 5.8+)
Dazed & Confused
Direct So Face (Moosedog Tower)
Invisibility Lessons (mentioned before)
My Laundry
Pope's Crack
Stick To What
Touch & Go
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bluering
Apr 3, 2006, 7:33 PM
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In reply to: fredbob, what about other must-do's in the 5.9 and under range?
R.A.F. is a really fun bolted face climb (5.9) and boulder dash has a cool 5.9 dihedral at the top portion. Headstone's 'cryptic' looks cool too but I haven't done it yet (5.8).
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bluering
Apr 3, 2006, 8:49 PM
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In reply to: The list is just for areas covered by Joshua Tree West (a little over 1/3 the Park). It would be too much work to actually generate a list for everything... still working on finishing up Central Joshua Tree. 5.9s Ace of Spades Dogleg Dummy's Delight North Overhang Orphan Overseer Popular Mechanics Rock Candy Split Personality Super Roof Other 5.9s Alice In Wonderjam Colorado Crack (maybe 5.8+) Dazed & Confused Direct So Face (Moosedog Tower) Invisibility Lessons (mentioned before) My Laundry Pope's Crack Stick To What Touch & Go
If we're just talking Jtree West (I just got the book) I always have a good time at Atlantis Wall in the Lost Horse area. Ceremony (5.10c) is pretty challenging to me. The first time I did it some dude split his hand on the bottom and there was blood all over the holds. That's how I could tell where the next holds were. There's alot of more moderate stuff there too (5.6 to 5.9's). It's great because of the high concentration of routes so close together.
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caughtinside
Apr 3, 2006, 9:04 PM
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bluering,
Atlantis wall is kind of fun, but the routes there are all fairly short, and I wouldn't include them on a tick list of classic climbs.
Ceremony is fun though, but short.
Atlantis wall is a better choice for beginning climbers/topropers.
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epicsaga
Apr 3, 2006, 11:17 PM
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I got the list from my "Joshua Tree classic tour" T-Shirt.
As far as up or downrating between different books and sites (people), JT is so sandbagged I'd prefer to be conservative on the ratings. you can call a 5.11 a 5.9 when youre leading it.
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fredbob
Apr 3, 2006, 11:27 PM
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The Josh Classics T Shirt needs a serious update. Perhaps, better to use the old one as a night shirt or dust rag rather than a tick list.
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epicsaga
Apr 3, 2006, 11:35 PM
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Not until a newer t shirt comes out. Also hiking an hour to routes doesnt make it on the tick list.
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epicsaga
Apr 3, 2006, 11:39 PM
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Whats the quality difference between a 4 and 5 star route, and how come there are so few 4 and 5 star routes in the under 5.9 range?
Is that consensus between a bunch of climbers?
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murf
Apr 4, 2006, 3:13 PM
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In reply to: JT is so sandbagged I'd prefer to be conservative on the ratings. you can call a 5.11 a 5.9 when youre leading it.
You can always call a 5.11 a 5.9 after you led it. You'll get shit about it, but not as much shit as you would if you called a 5.9 a 5.11.
In reply to: Not until a newer t shirt comes out. Also hiking an hour to routes doesnt make it on the tick list.
No, but it ensures that I won't see people whose route ambitions are dictated by a T-Shirt.
In reply to: Whats the quality difference between a 4 and 5 star route, and how come there are so few 4 and 5 star routes in the under 5.9 range
When you've climbed them, you'll know the answer.
Murf
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cragsurfer
Apr 5, 2006, 5:31 AM
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I'm heading down Thursday to climb Fri Sat Sun. I'll follow all the 5.9s 415 519 6690 Paul
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murf
Apr 5, 2006, 8:22 PM
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Hey Epicsaga,
I think you asked, "is your climbing half as active as your mouth?"
To be honest, my mouth is much more active, but my climbing is active enough. Anytime you want to lead one of my FA's, I'm ready to belay ( that would be me topping out )...
http://www.mountainproject.com/...49_medium_af80f5.jpg
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rickyrickrat
Apr 6, 2006, 2:04 AM
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never mind...
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fredbob
Apr 6, 2006, 4:07 AM
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Wow, where's the popcorn?
Epic and Rat, you guys are pretty funny...picking on Murf.
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murf
Apr 6, 2006, 3:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: To be honest, my mouth is much more active, but my climbing is active enough. Anytime you want to lead one of my FA's, I'm ready to belay ( that would be me topping out )... Good thing you wear that ridiculous helmet of your's, if not your swollen head would stretch to the breaking point and explode.
I've been informed that the proper term is helment ( which has supplanted helmut ). Oddly I'm not wearing one in the blurry photo, but I can't deny that I tend to wear a helment quite a bit. Is there a UIAA standard to how much ego pressure a helmet will hold before it explodes?
As you can see, no helment ( photo by DE ):
http://www.mountainproject.com/...15_medium_257e3d.jpg
In reply to: My advice is to focus more energy into actual climbing instead of online spraying, and then maybe you could actually climb something worth talking about. Until then STFU n00b!
Dude - go over to the Taco and look for "Stonemaster". When shit like that is available, you ain't going to find me spraying online. However, the offer still stands. I'll hold the rope for you, epic-rat, anytime you want to get on that boulder problem. I'll even do better, I won't wear a helment. I'm sorry, but I can't promise to be quiet. I mean, be realistic!
Murf
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murf
Apr 6, 2006, 7:55 PM
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FINE!!
You caught me, that's the actual angle *and* the actual height, but I AM NOT WEARING A HELMENT!!!
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artm
Apr 6, 2006, 8:13 PM
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Murf
422<425
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