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texansherpa


Sep 19, 2001, 6:59 PM
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technique tips
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hey i started climbing about 8 months ago, and at first i dug right into technique, then i realized i needed strength, cuz i couldnt do any of those moves!!! so now i have more than enough strength i think, but my technique stinks, i can muscle my way up 5.9s and some 5.10's too, but it kills my arms, id appreciate any tips you guys can give me on improving technique


arete2


Sep 19, 2001, 7:17 PM
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I would try using your legs more, just a thought.


aulwes


Sep 19, 2001, 7:57 PM
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Yea use your legs more, and practice moves on easier routes.


Partner pianomahnn


Sep 19, 2001, 10:22 PM
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What sorts of technique do you use now when you're climbing. Could you give us an example of a route you would do, and what moves you make to complete it? Perhaps we could then suggest something which could make it easier for you.



anomaly


Sep 20, 2001, 1:02 AM
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Does the technique really fade over time? I can understand strength reducing when not in use, but technique is more of a mind game. Is it the continuous repetition of moves that keep them fresh on the mind?


bart


Sep 20, 2001, 2:57 AM
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Use the tip of your feet, not the side. Don't change your feet on a hold, unless it's really necessary. Try to rest where you can (e.g. you can push yourself in an angle and then you can shake out your arms, if you know what I mean). If possible, hang with straight arms and try to put your feet higher before you try to catch a hold.


jds100


Sep 20, 2001, 7:54 PM
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I think technique does not fade, the way strength obviously does. I think Vijay probably needs a lot more training in technique than just eight months or so.

Practice climbing slowly, and deliberately; look your feet onto every foothold; know where your feet are going to go before you climb up to the next stance, before you move your arms and hands to the next holds. Climb with your arms straight, no elbow bend, as much as you can, where your feet are responsible for most of the upward movement and the arms just provide points of contact to keep from falling backwards; you grip the holds, but you don't really pull up with your arms. Practice downclimbing, slowly, a lot. Traverse for at least 20 minutes non-stop; you'll have to learn to use your feet and body positions in many different ways.


marcsv


Sep 20, 2001, 8:47 PM
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strength does fade, it takes patience and quite an effort to sustain a level of fitness. the way i learned my techniques is i belay for more experienced climbers and take mental notes on their techniques then try to do the same moves then eventually formulate my own style.

[ This Message was edited by: marcsv on 2001-10-01 05:02 ]


marcsv


Sep 20, 2001, 8:53 PM
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try this link
http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/index.html


metoliusmunchkin


Sep 25, 2001, 7:39 PM
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I know you guys have heard this so many times but I think it's good to remind all of you and it gets tiring after a while, but it's oh so true: "Practice, practice, practice" & "Practice makes perfect". Practice is pretty much the only advice I can give to you, though, perhaps taking a lesson at your local gym would improve your skills greately!


Partner rrrADAM


Sep 29, 2001, 7:31 PM
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FEET, FEET, FEET...

Shoes are the most expensive thing for a reason, they work.

Think about climbing a ladder, you don't PULL yourself up w/ your hands, you PUSH yourself up w/ your feet, your hands just keep you from falling backwards. Climb the same way.

When people first start, it's 90% hands and 10% feet. That's 'BASSACKWARDS', correct technique will allow you to use 10% hands and 90% feet. Hang straight-armed on your skeleton, get your feet right, then stand and pull to your next hold, then repeat the process.

We learn eye-hand coordination as a toddler, rockclimbing takes eye-FOOT coordination. Bouldering is the fastest way to learn feet and gain power.

Good luck,
rrrADAM


Partner pianomahnn


Sep 29, 2001, 8:22 PM
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My girlfriend climbs with technique, and probably does that whole 10 arm 90 foot thing, well probably more like 25:75...either way, I'm so opposite. If I can't haul myself through it, THEN I use technique. I'm working on it though damnit. She's my coach.


tyraidbp


Oct 1, 2001, 11:46 PM
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You want to get better? Go back and climb only 7's and 8's. Nothing higher than an 8 for three months. Keep climbing them, even if you have already done them 20 times. Once you hit 5.9, there is a need for technique, and once you can start to float up the 9's, then move on to some 10's. That is the best way to get stronger and better. One more thing, everything you climb to the top, climb back down to the bottom. Down climbing should be in everyones training schedule. And yes Pianomahnn, you still need work.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 2, 2001, 10:43 PM
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Great point Beer...

Most people do not realize that climbing up is easier that down-climbing.


rrrADAM


texansherpa


Oct 3, 2001, 10:06 PM
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hey thanks! Ive started training like nothing else (except school) matters. Downclimbing is really hard, but it works, all your tips have paid off big time, ive sent my project of 2 months, anyways, just wanted to thank you all

-vijay


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