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gymnastc
Apr 5, 2006, 11:09 PM
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http://i38.photobucket.com/...mnastc/IMG_06971.jpg
Welcome to Red Rocks!
Sometimes you just know that things won’t turn out the way you planned. My trip to Red Rocks turned out to be such a case. It started when, after boarding the plane from Boston to Las Vegas, the captain’s voice came over the intercom and announced that the flight would be delayed on the ground for 2 hours due to massive rainfall in Las Vegas. And this was a bad sign for 2 reasons. First, my partner and I would not arrive in Vegas until very late at night and would be too tired to climb the next day. Second, Red Rocks is composed of sandstone, and sandstone becomes too brittle to climb on after a rainstorm. And so, the trip began as we arrived at 13 mile campground in Vegas at 3:00 AM.
After being forced to take a rest day before it was even needed, we were finally ready to climb after a day at the AZ hot springs. Before the trip, I had looked through the Supertopo guidebook to pick out some climbs, and Epinephrine, the 15 pitch classic 5.9, was on the top of my list. Hearing that lines are common on such a classic climb, we decided to wake up at 3:30 AM and head into the Black Velvet canyon.
http://i38.photobucket.com/...mnastc/IMG_06972.jpg
A pre-dawn approach to Epinephrine
After a healthy approach, we spotted our line and were on our way up. Things started out well enough, and by that, I mean the first pitch went well. However, on the second pitch, my partner traveled too far over left to a set of bolt anchors, rather than left and then up to a different set of bolts. We ended our second pitch just to the left of the big chimney, but neither of us knew that we were already off route. I took a look at the book which said to stem past a flake then into the big chimney, so I tried to spot the most obvious line which went up past a big flake and then I guess I would have had to traverse back right around into the chimney. Unaware of our mistake, I started this next pitch. I climbed up to a ledge and began my ascent around a large flake. Trouble soon followed, as protection became harder to place. I was about 15 feet above my last piece, a 1.25 Friend, which was placed behind the flake. With my right arm in an undercling and me feet smeared against the wall, my left hand grabbed a large incut hold on the flake and I began to move. Then suddenly, as my right hand came out of the undercling, the rock in my left hand broke right off. My arms began flailing, trying to grab anything within reach, but I only scratched the air with my fingernails as I gave a loud, “FALLING!!!” Although only a fraction of a second long, I could count ever microsecond that passed as my body went sailing down. Then came the crash on the big ledge below, and I felt a huge pain in my pelvis, tailbone, heel, and arm on my right side. I also heard the clank as my helmet crashed into the wall. Hearing my partner ask if I was ok, all I could do was lay there, tangled in the rope, groaning in pain and trying to catch my breath while still in shock. By all rights, something in my body should have been broken after that 30-35 foot fall, but miraculously, this was not the case. You see, I had tied my Camelbak off under me as to not interfere with climbing in the chimneys. Upon inspection, water was leaking out of my bag, and realized that I must have landed on my Camelbak and broke my bag, rather than my bones. Not only had the water sack burst, but my camera was smashed, along with the plastic buckles on the bag and a bottle of antibacterial hand wash that had exploded all over inside. Finally after the initial shock of the fall wore off, I was ready to move. There was a battle in my head on whether to keep climbing up or to bail. I had come to Red Rocks to climb Epinephrine, and after that thought, I told my partner that I would cry, complain, and whine, but that I would make it up to the top. Was that a stupid decision? Probably, since I did not know the extent of the damage to my body, but I do believe that it showed strength of character and determination. I teared up and grunted my way through the chimneys, as pressing my battered pelvis with all of my force into the hard rock was quite painful. My partner led most of the rest of the climb as my confidence was a bit shattered at that moment. I did end up leading another 5.8 pitch, and by the end of the tenth pitch, the climbing got easier as the sun faded away. I told my partner that I would lead the rest of the climb since he was understandably tired after I made him lead so many pitches. So on went my headlamp and off I went, leading in the dark, finally finishing the climb at the big tree at 7:30 PM.
http://i38.photobucket.com/...mnastc/IMG_06973.jpg
Showing my relief by hugging the huge tree that marks the end of the route
We began our descent in the dark and by this time, my body told me that it was allowed to hurt even more now that the strenuous climbing was over. After moving very slowly without food or water for quite some time, getting lost multiple times, and giving up hope that I would see the car again before the sun rose, we made it to the parking lot just after 2 AM. I don’t know what constitutes an epic, but if that day didn’t count, it was pretty frikin’ close to it.
After a couple days soaking and resting at a hotel and a trip to the ER to make sure nothing was broken or fractured, I was still in constant pain but eager to climb again. My partner and I swapped leads on Frogland and Crimson Chrysalis the next couple of days.
http://i38.photobucket.com/...mnastc/IMG_06974.jpg
The first time climbing up Frogland since the fall
With every step further up the climbs, whether it be on lead or following, I was still very nervous, almost on the verge of tears a few times. When we topped out on Crimson Chrysalis, I collapsed on the ground, relieved that I was done climbing.
http://i38.photobucket.com/...mnastc/IMG_06976.jpg
On top of Crimson Chrysalis, done climbing
My mind had been playing games with my head ever since the fall, and even still now I get jerked awake by visions of me standing at the edge of a cliff as it crumbles from under my feet, and I fall all the way down.
I came to Red Rocks with hopes that my confidence and motivation would soar upon returning home. Little did I know that I would come back shattered in spirit and mind. If I learned only one thing on this trip, it’s that I was one extremely lucky man and that if I ever have such large ambitions as grand as this, then I had better wisen up a bit before then, since good fortune is never guaranteed. For now my future in climbing is unsure. I now realize a bit more how dangerous climbing can be, no matter how safe one tries to be, and also how fragile my body and mind really are. I’m proud that I worked through the fear and pain after such a fall, but mentally, I am still not over the whole affair. Perhaps it is time to take a break from climbing until I can honestly say that my mind is ready for such challenges again.
http://i38.photobucket.com/...mnastc/IMG_06975.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/...mnastc/IMG_06978.jpg
Cliffs from the loop road and Red Rocks at dawn, leaving back to Boston
Chris
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caughtinside
Apr 5, 2006, 11:15 PM
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Glad you're ok! Can't believe you climbed right after ledging out from 30 feet.
Why didn't the cam catch you?
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breaksnclimbs
Apr 5, 2006, 11:23 PM
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Glad you're OK !!!
Don't stop climbing - Get back on the horse man
If you stop the fear will only grow.
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yokese
Apr 5, 2006, 11:28 PM
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In reply to: Why didn't the cam catch you?
No need for the cam to fail.
In reply to: ...I was about 15 feet above my last piece...
Hence, >30 feet fall on the ledge.
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jrzacher
Apr 6, 2006, 12:14 AM
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Good effort but dramatic TR hah
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robbovius
Apr 6, 2006, 12:39 AM
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Chris, excellent TR, though scary...very glad you came back okay. Continuing after that fall constitutes a significant achievement. much respect...
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eellis
Apr 6, 2006, 12:47 AM
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Great Trip Report!
Glad you are OK. Yes climbing is dangerous, but so is sitting on the couch (>300,000 people die a year of obesity in the USA). You are 7 times more likely to die in an car accident then climbing and much more likely to die road biking (due to getting hit by a car).
Shit, any thing in life requires some risk. Just don't try to on-sight climbs in the dark maybe.
Peace!
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core
Apr 6, 2006, 1:25 AM
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Chris, thanks for sharing your adventure and I'm glad you're mostly ok. Take a breather and shake this one off, your confidence will return. (and I was hoping you and I could go play on Cannon this summer) :)
Part of me thinks that you would have finished Epi even IF you had broken your leg...hehe
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jakedatc
Apr 6, 2006, 1:44 AM
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Nice chris.. sucks about the camera.. but you should frame the exploded camelpak climbing airbag for sure
makes that gunks fall last summer sound like a piece of cake
cory both of you should come to rumney this summer so we can take far more fun and much less scary falls on bolts ;)
clip or whip but jeeeeesh. less abrupt ending next time
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ambler
Apr 6, 2006, 2:17 AM
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Wild start to your day! Must have been quite an effort, physical and mental, for you not to give up right there. Props to your partner who cowboyed up too.
That descent is no fun in the dark even without trauma. My partner and I spent four hours fumbling our way down it one night.
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boardline22
Apr 6, 2006, 2:40 AM
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nice tr
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choueiri
Apr 6, 2006, 2:45 AM
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Chris, that was one hell of an amazing story. My respect goes out to you for having finished the climb and continued climbing after that. I have climbed with you before and would gladly climb with you again.
Tony
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thabadcharacter
Apr 6, 2006, 3:05 AM
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hate to play the devils advote here, but read TNB in the latest Rock&Ice!
Does sound like you had quite the adventure climb though!
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briarpatch
Apr 6, 2006, 3:17 AM
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It's good that you kept going once you realized there was no major injury. I took a 25-30' grounder once and it took me a long, long time to get my head into a good place again. In a way I feel that it was good for my climbing though, something like this make you understand in no uncertain terms the real risks we face as climbers. The real trick is to not let those phantom fears overwhelm you and detract from what you can really learn hear. Yeah, read Rock Warrior's Way.
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saxfiend
Apr 6, 2006, 3:39 AM
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Scary story, glad you weren't hurt as bad as you could have been. I hope you recover your confidence and go on to climb hard again!
JL
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jumaringjeff
Apr 6, 2006, 1:20 PM
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Great TR Chris, and congradulations on your achievement. While none of the epics I've exeperienced were that dire, I know what it's like to have your confidence shaken. Just be patient with yourself, and eventually you will return a better and safer climber.
I'm happy to swing leads with you on some easy terrain this summer if you're ever in need of a partner.
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uasunflower
Apr 6, 2006, 3:07 PM
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chris, thanks for sharing an educative story, props to endurance and determination. Climbing on sandstone and evaluating the reliability of those holds is a bit tricky after NE granit on Cathedral for instance...It was courageous of you to start it all off with Epi.
Playing games with your lead head will probably be even harder. It certainly makes you reexamine the inner motivations for such folly. I hope to see you sometime on the rock in the future though. Good luck!
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caughtinside
Apr 6, 2006, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Why didn't the cam catch you? No need for the cam to fail. In reply to: ...I was about 15 feet above my last piece... Hence, >30 feet fall on the ledge.
Never said the cam failed... the next question is then why he was in that situation. Sometimes you can avoid it, sometimes you can't.
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troutboy
Apr 6, 2006, 4:55 PM
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In reply to: Never said the cam failed... the next question is then why he was in that situation. Sometimes you can avoid it, sometimes you can't.
I'd say he was in that situation because his (and his partner's) routefinding abilities suck :D
Seriously though, glad it worked out for ya. Although I would not recommend continuing with such a climb after that fall. Rap anchor right there, too. Lucky there were no internal injuries or you would likely no longer be here.....
TS
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flamer
Apr 6, 2006, 6:43 PM
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In reply to: the captain’s voice came over the intercom and announced that the flight would be delayed on the ground for 2 hours due to massive rainfall in Las Vegas. . Second, Red Rocks is composed of sandstone, and sandstone becomes too brittle to climb on after a rainstorm.
You knew this and you still climbed an ultra classic route within 2 days?
That's an incredibly bad and selfish decision.
You shouldn't consider quiting climbing because you broke a hold and fell...you should quit because you obviously don't have the ability to make informed decision's about not getting yourself in the situation in the first place.
josh
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billcoe_
Apr 6, 2006, 7:42 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: the captain’s voice came over the intercom and announced that the flight would be delayed on the ground for 2 hours due to massive rainfall in Las Vegas. . Second, Red Rocks is composed of sandstone, and sandstone becomes too brittle to climb on after a rainstorm. You knew this and you still climbed an ultra classic route within 2 days? That's an incredibly bad and selfish decision. You shouldn't consider quiting climbing because you broke a hold and fell...you should quit because you obviously don't have the ability to make informed decision's about not getting yourself in the situation in the first place. josh
Sheese, you must be getting old Flamer. You appear to have forgotten what it's like to be young and be shaking all over you have to climb so bad. :wink:
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reg
Apr 6, 2006, 7:46 PM
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[quote="flamer"]In reply to: the captain’s voice came over the intercom and announced that the flight would be delayed on the ground for 2 hours due to massive rainfall in Las Vegas.
i was going to ask if it had rained but i didn't want to go that direction and knowing hind sight is 20/20, maybe the wet problem needed to be talked about - for his future protection and of course it could have been much much worse - finding yourself at a dead end - off route - on something above your ability! dangerous! and that stiuation that needs to be considered carefully before the climb. but all said and done i'm glad your ok. with that much determination you'll be bustin moves like... tomorrow!
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jakedatc
Apr 6, 2006, 8:42 PM
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Flamer.. you must be perfect and have every route you get on memorized and never get off route ? or.. more likely you're just a fucking dick
Seems like he got off route which can lend itself to chossy holds.. the hold could have broken off regardless of the weather beforehand.
It would be very sad if chris quit climbing.. in the past 2 years he's gone from struggling up moderate top ropes to being a darn solid .9+ trad leader (mostly gunks .9 at that) I'd climb with him any day
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elron
Apr 7, 2006, 1:15 AM
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Good TR Chris, glad to hear you're ok! Everyone else has told you the same thing I'm gonna tell you... don't stop climbing because of the fall. Take some time off, use the time for other fun things, and work your way back into it.
In all honesty, I have a tough time imagining that you'd ever stop climbing. Your excitement about the sport is infectious and has pulled me off the couch on many occasions. Besides, if you stop climbing, i won't be able to climb Royal Arches!!! (remember our deal??)
Good job, as usual ;)
Kevin
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cracklover
Apr 7, 2006, 10:34 PM
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Exciting TR, Chris! Very glad you're mostly okay. This dangererous game we play is always messing with our heads one way or another. Good luck fighting your new demons!
GO
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