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How to climb overhang without rope drag.
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paintinhaler


Aug 22, 2002, 4:49 PM
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How to climb overhang without rope drag.
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I was thinking about a new climb but the deal is there is a 12 foot overhang. The overhang is 13 above the ground and the rest of the climb is 30 feet vertical. How would you bolt it and not have to cilmb the rest of the 30 feet with rope drag. Unless I dont bolt till you get past the overhang. Any ideas?


estwing


Aug 22, 2002, 5:01 PM
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Perhaps a bolt above the overhang, and call it a stick clip route.

Or be bold, and boulder the roof to get the first clip.

You could use a long sling but then you would hit the ground anyway.

Have a nice day,
Sam


the_elk


Aug 22, 2002, 5:01 PM
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RUN IT OUT!
hehehehehe

You can still bolt it... maybe a bolt half the way along or a bit more, but use a longish sling on the pro before the overhang starts. And a medium sling below that... might help eliminate drag... but in order to stay safe you may have to fight with some drag. In my opinion it depends how easy the start of the climb is, and the roof... You wouldn't want to stitch it up. I tend to run things out a little if I feel like it's well achievable.
Drag, I feel, is innevitable. But you've also gotta think of your second! When they follow you up after they take the gear out, how far will they fall if they don't make it to the next piece?
Cheers
Elk


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Aug 22, 2002, 5:04 PM
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Or you could bolt with the idea in mind that each clip can be easily backcleaned after you`ve clipped the next bolt and make sure that the bolt at the lip is easily reached from a good position whilst hanging from the roof. You may need to give beta for this climb such as bring a long quickdraw for the clip at the lip.

Another way to do it is to simply extend the draws under the roof so that the rope runs a little straighter. From your description I think there is not going to be that much rope drag anyway if you use the longer quickdraws under the roof.

...Phil...


rockjock04


Aug 22, 2002, 5:20 PM
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I am having this same problem. ON TOP ROPE!

leading is obvious but on top rope its a little harder to do.



mtnjohn


Aug 22, 2002, 5:37 PM
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Put bolt just over the lip
boulder the start with a spot


rocknalaska


Aug 26, 2002, 10:37 AM
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Stick clip over the lip, or boulder out the start. As far as the best way to bolt it, use your best judgement, clipping should be from the best clipping position.

For a 12 foot roof you're going to have to have at least one bolt on the roof. I would try and put the first bolt halfway out the roof with a long draw, and the second bolt right at the lip. Avoid putting a bolt on the first vertical section if you can as it will really increase the drag. It's really difficult to say without being on the route and seeing the movement and holds.

Bolts are best placed in good clipping positions. Set an anchor and climb the route, figure out where you can clip and when, then start to figure out the bolts.

Todd

Todd


mountaingoatorspidey


Aug 29, 2002, 7:50 PM
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Try to put a bolt and short sling half way to the overhang and another bolt with a sling that is long enough to get past the overhang, then go back down to the half way and switch that sling with a long one and have at it. I know that it seems complicated, but it is probably the safest way in that situation.
-Happy climbing.
-Peace.

[ This Message was edited by: mountaingoatorspidey on 2002-08-29 19:51 ]


timpanogos


Sep 4, 2002, 8:55 PM
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I saw a very incredible 12b climb last monday - Warrior Without a Cause - Warrior Wall, Ruth Lake - Uintas.

It also had a way incredible roof - only much higher up - about 20 meters. Anyway, they had a single chain that was bolted well above the lip and hung below the roof by about 2'.


paintinhaler


Sep 4, 2002, 9:28 PM
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The overhang is like 15 foot wide and long.


overlord


Sep 9, 2002, 3:07 AM
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just suus it up and climb. if you do sport, rope drag is part of it. dont jeopardize safety for less friction man.

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