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Smith Rock Gig trip report
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wyoclimber


Aug 23, 2002, 9:26 AM
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Smith Rock Gig trip report
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Thanks to those that helped put this together. I got to meet and climb with,
Nikegirl, Brodie, Rickoldskool, KrustyKlimber, Russman, Russmanswife, Climbingstud, and Brogan.
The weather was great, cool and even a little rainy. The rock was perfect, and the company was awesome.
Blue Toenails, rope swings, slacklining, and some wicked climbing!
I had to leave before some of the members arrived, so to those of you i missed, we will hook up later!
Bill


ponyryan


Aug 23, 2002, 10:28 PM
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I hope to see you all at some point as well. My story of this gig is indeed a long one. In short: Teacher decided to be a jerk, had to stay at school till thursday late. Went thursday night, friday morning got rained on, lightning thunder etc, no climbing. Left smith, went elsewhere, tried calling russman a bunch of times, no contact, phone problems. Talked to nikegirl a bit, missed her climbing though Anyways, sorry to have missed ya'll hope you had a better time than I.


nikegirl


Aug 24, 2002, 9:10 PM
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This trip to Smith Rock, was a memorable one, for a few reasons. It was quaint. Not soo big as most gatherings...hense the word "gig". It's a good description for the small group, and trickling in of the few great people I met up with.

I've climbed Smith only once before. Pictures, of my first leads, will be solid in my mind. Extatic pleasure in that adreneline alone.

But, this trip, was awesome in itself, and also a blessing in disguise.
I got a call from krustyklimber, night before I left...stranded on the WRONG side of Portland. He finally made it to my house, just a little Wrung!!
We talked for a few minutes, and I set him up on the couch.
We woke at the crack of dawn...with my son ready and willing. We loaded up. We talked all the way up. Time flew. We got there at 8:30.

I weeeee'd thru the lot, but, my windows we're down !! no one heard me Cept brody and krusty. The thing about Krusty...well there are many things. He is a sweet Man...kind to the core. Very vocal, lots of energy. More than me!!!!!

We met Russman and russmanswife (bobbi), rickoldskool, and wyoclimber at the lot.
Off we went...hit the sunshine. Straight off. We climbed til it was time to eat. We went to the picnic tables...and chowed. We decided to hit the campsite, and set up camp.

On the way there...
IT HIT!!! I was driving...saying" I don't feel so good We hit this one Junction in the road. Well, lets just say: it's now called PUKE JUNCTION!!!
Hehe, I can laugh about it now...but, oh man!!!! it was bad. Krusty was soooo good to me. He stood ny my side...as I hurled
We hit camp...He made me lay down on my crash pad, as he set up my tent. He and Brody we're a great team. Krusty basically took over at that point. I was helpless, sick, and weak...chilled and cold. NOT LOOKIN' GOOD AT ALL!!! Unfortunatally the two started to talk about food: their favorite "macaroni and cheese"....I RAN TO A BUSH!!!
Again, able to laugh about it now... rick and wyo came to camp, and i was out, in my tent in no time.
I don't think I can describe the late night potty episode with Brody, so well...but, I had Krusty laughing in his tent.
Coyote's singing under a full moon, in the night.
i ached, and couldn't sleep so well...WELL, truthfully? I didn't sleep much at all. Still achy and then finally when I did fall asleep??? My Kid woke at 6!!! Ugh!!!
I Ate a little breakfast, and I was good to go. We hit the lot again and climbed Rope de Dope....shade!!! We wanted shade. So, we hit it...good climbing, and good shade...worked 5.10bc's...and a few others.
Nice!!
Then it hit, the rain...thunder and lightning...Krusty Brody and I...left the area as fast as we could and we bolted for the car. Realizing...on the way, I hadn't put the fly on my tent. DOH!


We headed back to camp. I decided that I wanted a motel, I just had to!! If I didn't? we'd have made it a miserable experience. I'm newer to camping...this was a bummer. We went to the motel, I took a nap, and told both "KIDS"(krusty and brody) to be quiet for two TV shows, on TV...so, I could sleep. No talking!! (duct tape!! I thought about duct tape)
I was a wee bit tired!! Still recovering from hurling my guts out.
Wyo an Rick called, they we're on their way...we met up at the Motel, and looked at all Wyo's amazing pictures, all sprawled on one bed. Door was open, and the others at the motel, musta thought something strange was going on in there OH MY MY MY
THE TALK!!! Hehe

We hung from the door jams, wyo bouldered the cubby wall...and then Wyo and I looked at eachother:" let's hit the rock!!" We Dragged Krusty, Brody and Rick to Rope de Dope, again...For some of the best climbing so far. They all whined!!
But, when we got there: all of our second winds hit!!
We whipped them out!! It was perfect...gave me a super good SURGE, back into my WANTING to climb. I was a little toasted, from feeling so sick... This just gave it back!!

The next day we met up with climbstud, Eric. He was in visiting his Aunt and Uncle in Bend. Good climber! Tank? NO Eric, it's a "wife-beater". And???(giggle*)You looked like a mini "rrradam".
hehe!!
He blasted his tunes and worked a hard route, over and over. Til he had to leave. We planned on climbing again on Friday, Saturday.

We all worked a great few Routes, in the Christian Brothers area. I am proud mostly of the 5.11d!!! I wasn't aware of it's rating, and when i found out!! I was stoked!!! Beyond, stoked!! I did two(?) quick hangdogs..but, still, accomplishment was amazing. Gave me a rush!!
Happy ending to my Smith Trip.
We had a blast swinging from the ropes on the wall, just hanging on, and flyng like Tarzan or Jane(me)!
"WEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!" was heard, across the canyon.
Then, to see Brody bouldered the entire day, on one area. His climbing hoes never came off...and he complained of sore hands, that eve.
hee hee...soooo my child For him to just go at it and never stop
We went back up to the picnic tables, and ate...Krusty set up the slackline...and we stayed there for hours, til the time came to say goodbye.

Bobbi and Russ:
a pleasure to just hang out again. Hot as heck, that day in the sun. I really did hope to boulder with you two!! Bobbi, i hope your ankle gets better soon.
I am sorry to not have meet up on the later days
We'll get together in WA, promise!! show me about!!
And I'm sad, to not have squeeeeeeezed Hunter, till he POPPED*!!!! hee hee


Rickoldskool:
I hope I have changed your perception of "woman hating" kidding!! I think your injuries, will NEVER stop you!! You're determination to pass the mind-games!! You passed them!! You rocked!! I have learned a lot from you! Your humor kept me alive. Me ill, and you still got me laughing. Thank you for the lessons on everything!!

Wyoclimber:
Have I changed your idea of "women hating"? kidding!
"Wyo"...Brody asked me why??"Why do you call him that???" I said: I liked it : it's more a pet name for him...kind, kind Wyo. Patient as can be. I think I told you this Bill, but, I had absolute faith in your belaying me...knowing you we're down there...and for a long a** time, too... focusing on me, rather than the others, and the goings on...Truly made me relaxed, and FOCUSED! Thank you for that. Made for a great climbing experience.
Your pictures, of the Utah Gathering, made me sad. I still think of them...great to see others perspective from their camera, rather than only mine...I can't wait to see the pictures from this trip. You are an amazing climber and now a good friend.

Krusty...

We spent a hella lotta time together, driving, and you caring for me, and Brody(when I could not). I told you when you left, my house...how I felt about ya...you are so kind. Amazing in your own way!! You will see Brody and I again...We will be making a trip to Seattle, to just play and climb at Marymoore Park...I think Brody mentioned it today...When? When are we going to go see "Krusty BOOGERS" again!!
I swear that is what he said!! LOL

We talked about a lot of things, you and I. I see life in a way that you do...
For months...you have stated to me...in many occations, some profound thoughts...well, now there is a profound soul that I can now put a face to. Thank you for taking such good care of me.
But, TRUTH be told??? There was a few times??? I wish I had DUCT tape: to tape your mouth shut
LOL!!!!! I can't say you didn't warn me...first off. But, DANG Man!!!! Both you and Brody yammering!! UGH!!
I survived!! And??? Yes, I'd do it all again!! ok, not all....I'd leave out the HURLING! Hee hee!!!

I didn't get to get back to Smith on Friday or Saturday, for there was major obligations, that couldn't be helped...back here in Portland. But, so far: from most's experiences, i've not missed out, between injuries, and rain...I am glad to have stayed here.
The Rumney Gathering will be my next ADVENTURE!!! I've not been past the Mid-West ever in my life!! I'm excited. Fall Colours, and great people, I've climbed with from all over!! Yes!!!!!!!!!!

brogan and his friend Jake made it, there too. Worked on major hard routes...off in the distance. I was glad to play and take some pictures.

I'm all better, now. Full strength again. Happy and ready to get back on the rock.
Thanks all for the great time. Small, yes...but, very nice indeed.



T
PS: wyo: where are the quotes???

"OH NO!!! BUTT CRAMP!!"~me




[ This Message was edited by: nikegirl on 2002-08-24 21:25 ]


krustyklimber


Aug 25, 2002, 4:22 AM
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I had the best time climbing I have had in a very long time!

I am so glad I didn't bail... I was really thinking about it.

The trip was quite eventful! To say the least (sorta like when we went for the Skaha gathering, and had a little adventure in driving) Just getting enough gear and clothes for a 1/2 week of climbing packed onto a motorcycle was an adventure! It woulda killed my Bro's 250 Ninja to have ridden it over the mountains to Smith, so T and I decided I would carpool with them,whew I was so relieved! But then I got totally lost trying to find her house, I actually was blocks from her house when I got bogus directions and went for a scenic cruise.
When I called T fully frazzled and ready to just go to Smith 'cause I knew how to find it she calmed me down and gave me really good directions. I have never been so glad to get off a motorcycle anywhere or anytime in my life, and I once raced until I puked!

T was the ultimate hostess (well she didn't have Dews in the fridge, but I did show up unexpectedly) she had the most comfortable couch, and a beautiful little home. I slept the night so comfortably, that place is blessed by angels!

T and Brody are morning people, I am not , so I was a little overwhelmed!
Good thing I have dark sunglasses!
Brody only asked "how long 'til we get there?", oh maybe 139,864 times, and how could ya blame him we were going camping!!!
Dude can fully push my buttons, and I did my best to help... him goof off!
It's a good thing people don't hit kids anymore, I woulda got a spankin' a couple times! Sorry T

When we got to the park it was beautiful as always, with the morning light and the terra cotta colors in the rock and the sagebrush smell in the air, this was looking to be a great day!!!
We soon met up with other bright faces, Russman looks exactly like his profile pic, and I couldn't figure out which one of us country boys had his baseball cap rolled tighter, him or me! Wyoclimber and Rickoldschool followed soon after. WyoBill's easy going nature and Rick's big ass grin let me know this was for sure going to be a great day!!!


It is so cool we have the other threads going now "members you have climbed with" and the "respect" thread, because I was able to let these people know how I feel about them there.

The companionship of these people could not of come at a more needed time in my life, and I will cherish it always. My smile has been hiding for a long time now, and this is the first time in a very long time I have used it so liberally.


I shot about 24 pics a day, with a little help (thanks Eric!), and I can't wait to see them! Mostly Brody 'cause he's is just so dern cute, and many of T 'cause she knocks my socks off she is very beautiful inside and out (but dang is she skinny!)!
Got plenty of the rest of us too I hope to have some good ones, maybe some new profile pics.
I wish Russ had been ther to video ol' Krusty onsighting the "Pass the Package" trick on the slackline! I am all black and blue!

Hey did anybody get a photo of Chalky Bear?
It was his first climbing trip?

I hope to make many more of these gatherings, small or large, it was really fun.

Jeff


Partner russman


Aug 25, 2002, 6:08 PM
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Just got back....lots of fun...I got Chalk E. Bear on Video. Not a lot of other video of our day on Monday....I guess I did not give Bobbi great instructions on the camera

ANywho...only hooked up with members on Monday...then we went back on Thursday and did some bouldering...man, lots harder than I thought. Much fun...Bobbi's foot is pretty well healed. Just a little sprain. I guess the good thing about goign back to boulder, is that now she is dead set on getting up on the rock outside and giving it a go with the rope. I the looking at the Picnic Lunch Wall intimidated her a little.

T.~~Great to hook up again, and as soon as Krusty and I get things set up...we will look for a PNW Gig in "My Backyard" at the Frenchmans Coulee.

Krusty~~Great time...thanx for the help on the cleaning rap

Rick~~Way to get on the rock and KICK ITS ASS. Glad you made it up

Wyo~~You were great too....never seen a guy rip down as many TR just so he could jump on lead and stay sharp. Very cool.

Sorry we missed the camping (in a motel?) But we had horses to ride and rodeos to apply for (long sorty of me and the wifes horse)

Look forward to the next Gig. Krusty...BTW...I have many a tightly rolled hat...I will look for a better one next time


Partner russman


Aug 29, 2002, 7:00 AM
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Got our Pix back last night and posted a bunch. Hope others have better shots (hint T.)

Since I can't make a new photo album...you will have to click the "view new" button under photos (or hit that link) and jsut look for me as the photog.

Hope you like. The Russman

BTW...if you look hard enough Krusty, you can see Chalk E. Bear (just not real great)


rickoldskool


Aug 29, 2002, 11:51 PM
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Ahh, Finally a minute to myself. There isn't much I can add to the trip report. It was a great one for me. The first in almost a year.
It's a pretty awesome thing to travel so far, meet people I've never seen, and feel right at home. Thanx to all of you that showed. T, Krusty and Wyo, I really appreciate the patience and support you gave me while I worked thru the "head game". It was a bigger deal to me than I let on. Those who don't know what I'm refering to, I fell from scaffolding almost a year ago and russmans photo of me leading is the first since returning to climbing. My mind is willing but my insincts tell me "get the fu*k down". I'm still wearing that blue nail polish. I'm thinking it's kinda cool. Chicks dig it Man you shoulda' seen the looks I got when I went to Mt Ranier.
BeSafe, LiveLong, ClimbHard.......


nikegirl


Aug 30, 2002, 6:56 AM
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Wyo told ya!! Blue toenails...a major chick magnet!!!!!

hehe


I'll get to the pics as soon as I settle to my new house
It'll be next week!!

T


krustyklimber


Sep 3, 2002, 11:28 PM
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I have a scanner and I have the Smith pics but my computer crashed and the scanner isn't working, the pics I have will have to wait as well.

Jeff


otter


Sep 5, 2002, 12:02 PM
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You all sound like you had an absolute blast. I know both Marmot and I are really looking forward to the WA gig so we can meet this crazy bunch... I am sure it will be a great time. We are really looking forward to meeting up with all you folks.
Till then....
HAAAAPPPPPY CLIMBING!


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