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girlyoutalkto
Apr 20, 2006, 10:57 PM
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I did a forum search for this and couldn't come up with anything, so if you ladies could give me some feedback that would be great...
I just started climbing about 6 months ago and bought a pair of 5.10 Sapphires about a month into it, recognizing that I quickly becoming obsessed. :lol: At EMS, the employees kept trying to get me to try on shoes that I was convinced were much too small for me and I ended up buying the Sapphires at either a 7 or a 7.5, and I take an 8/8.5 in street shoes.
Clearly those EMS people knew what they were talking about! My shoes are just too big now, after a lot of use and plenty of stretching. They're usable and everything, and very comfortable (too comfortable!), but I get the feeling that I might get a boost in my climbing if I got a shoe that was tighter. I just can't really feel the holds that well in them.
What I'm wondering is what you ladies use...? I've been doing a lot of research and I'm liking the look of the Mad Rock Hottie shoe. I've heard good things about Mad Rock (and bad things about FiveTen, though I don't know how accurate that is). I've got a very narrow foot, if that makes any difference, and I probably boulder about 75 percent of the time and top rope/a bit of leading the rest of the time. I'm looking for something that will endure for a while (I'm a poooooor college student) and will also be good performance-wise. What shoes have you all had good experiences with, and what ones should I stay away from? And if you've used the Hottie, PLEASE give me some feedback!
Thanks girls! :)
Edit: Also... what's the deal with slip-ons? -clueless-
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granite_grrl
Apr 20, 2006, 11:49 PM
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Something that fits your foot is more important than downsizing. My Saphires are 8.5/9, my street shoe is 9/9.5. My toes are flat, but they fit me well allowing me to edge on small holds without my foot rolling.
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kimmyt
Apr 21, 2006, 2:16 AM
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Remember that a synthetic shoe (I'm pretty sure the Hottie is such a one) will stretch less than a natural leather shoe (the Sapphire).
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outdoorplayr
Apr 25, 2006, 9:00 PM
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i have the La Sportiva Venoms... i LOVE them. you need to get them pretty small as they will stretch; i got the smallest size that i could possibly get into at first but they were so painful i couldn't even get on the wall to break them in so i had to go a half size larger. they are perfect now that i have broken them in. my last pair were Mad Rock Locos and while i liked them, they fell apart way quick and didn't fit my feet quite as well (some of my crazy toe callouses have actually started to go down a little since wearing the Venoms.) good luck finding the right pair of shoes :)
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andrewbanandrew
Apr 26, 2006, 1:13 AM
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La Sportiva Katanas and Mythos are both built on fairly narrow lasts. The womens versions have low-volume heels, which is nice (no more 'suction-cup' phenomenon).
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noell
Apr 26, 2006, 1:56 AM
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La Sportiva has just come out with a womens' version of the Muira. I would totally check out this shoe! I think it's totally awesome, great edging shoe, great for sport, overhanging stuff and veritical stuff, and good for gym climbing too. It's a lace up, and has fits narrow feet really well (I have a very narrow size 7 street shoe- foot and they fit awesome!).
The Muria is definitely more aggressive than the Saphire. It's more downturned, and unlike most slip ons, it is pretty stiff. Lots of slip ons are meant to soften up a bunch, and you'll totally feel the rock under your toes and be able to grip with them. I'd agree - if you want something softer, in a slip on, perhaps the Venoms, or when they are available, the new Vipors, from Sportiva.
Why sportiva? Well, the price may be a bit higher but you get what you pay for! These shoes perform really well, rubber holds up, and they last!! I have been climbing pretty much full time since August, and just got my first pair of Sportiva shoes (Women's Muira's and the Testarosa's - I am a former-Montrail convert) and I absolutely LOVE them!!!
Another reason why Sportiva - they tend to run narrow. 5.10 doesn't tend to run very narrow, I've never felt their shoes fit my foot really well. Sportiva gets it right. :P
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acacongua
Apr 26, 2006, 12:07 PM
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In reply to: What I'm wondering is what you ladies use...? I've been doing a lot of research and I'm liking the look of the Mad Rock Hottie shoe. Thanks girls! :) Edit: Also... what's the deal with slip-ons? -clueless-
Do you want a shoe based on your performance or the look? Go with what is best for your climbing and your fit. I absolutely love the Anasazi's even if they get a bad rap from time to time. I'm breaking into .12s now and I love that I can trust my feet in these shoes. Also, I have narrow feet so the women's version is perfect for me, although I've used the men's version mostly.
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angelaa
Apr 26, 2006, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: Do you want a shoe based on your performance or the look? Go with what is best for your climbing and your fit. I absolutely love the Anasazi's even if they get a bad rap from time to time. I'm breaking into .12s now and I love that I can trust my feet in these shoes. Also, I have narrow feet so the women's version is perfect for me, although I've used the men's version mostly.
I have to agree with Acaconqua - the ANASAZI's are awesome. . . and just as an example of wild shoe sizes. . I wear 9.5 street shoes, and my Anasazi's are size 10 (and thats men size 10! :shock: ) but then I never trust sizes!!
I use the men's version, because it has a narrow heal and a wider toe box and is therefor PERFECT fit for me - they rock at Indian Creek!! - although my hubby is trying to get me to try the new Galileo's . . .cuz my A's are almost worn out :cry:
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climbingbetty22
Apr 26, 2006, 10:47 PM
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In reply to: La Sportiva Katanas and Mythos are both built on fairly narrow lasts. The womens versions have low-volume heels, which is nice (no more 'suction-cup' phenomenon).
I have both of these models, Mythos for long days on trad routes, Katanas for the gym and bouldering. I've had both pairs for about a year now. LOVE THEM!!! I *heart* LA SPORTIVA. I climbed for a long time in Anasazis which I also think is a great shoe, but this was more they made a women's version, so my biggest compliant about them was that they were too big on my heel.
But like it's been said, get what "fits."
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sportclmbr20
Apr 27, 2006, 3:11 PM
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I have the Mad Rock Hotties and they are the best climbing shoe I have purchased. They are awesome when you heel hook and they really fit to my foot. I def. recommend this shoe if it also fits your foot; always try shoes on first before you buy.
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sport_climber_100
Apr 27, 2006, 9:09 PM
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I also think the hotties would work great for a narrow foot. I have a wider foot and love the Mad Rock Hookers (the Hotties are a bit too narrow for me). Mad Rock's edge, smear and heel-hook super well and the rubber never seems to get that stiff "old" feeling that so many other brands do. Because there's a lot of rubber on the Mad Rocks, don't expect much stretching.
Best of luck!
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jewels_vegas
May 2, 2006, 1:33 AM
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The womens evolv shoes are worth looking into if you have a really narrow foot. I used to work at a gear shop and the average woman's foot was too wide for the evolv shoes. They are also fairly cheap ( under 100 dollars). You also asked what the slip-on shoes are all about. Slippers tend to have a very thin sole that allows you to feel everything that you put your toe on. On the down side, a long climbing day in those will make your feet cramp up. I use the LaSportiva Katana for thin cracks and gym bouldering, the Five Ten Mocasym for short days outside and training, and the Five Ten Siren for long days outside. If you are still in college, I would suggest getting a job at a sporting goods store that carries climbing gear. You can get pro deal through almost all of the stores vendors (pay 60$ instead of 120$ for shoes). Don't be quick to get rid of those comfy Sapphires. Your feet will thank you on a long day.
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ledavis23
May 2, 2006, 4:57 PM
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I'm a die-hard Saphirre fan- on my second pair. I too have very narrow feet. 5.10 just came out with a new women's shoe that is very much like the Saphirre, but it is synthetic so there won't be the same stretching issues. It's called the Siren. REI is putting them on sale for 79.99 this Friday. As far as Mad Rock, my die-hard climber-girl friend had a pair of their shoes and really disliked the quality of the rubber (particularly the hard rubber that is supposed to be good for edging). She says it doesn't stick well on real rock and it's ok at the gym, but the rubber seems to wear faster than other brands. Just so you know. If I had the money right now, I'd go out and buy Sirens.
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ryco
May 2, 2006, 5:35 PM
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My oh my. First post and it's on shoes. Man. Go figure.
Anyway, I use the Sportiva Cliff rock shoes, and love them. I've got a pair of Evolv's as well, which are great in the gym, but Sportiva is definitely my preferred shoe. The Mythos is next for me. But everybody I know who dones the Hotties digs them. Mad Rock and my feet just can't get it together, but the Hottie is a cool shoe.
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tavs
May 3, 2006, 8:09 PM
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In reply to: Slippers tend to have a very thin sole that allows you to feel everything that you put your toe on. On the down side, a long climbing day in those will make your feet cramp up. I use the LaSportiva Katana for thin cracks and gym bouldering, the Five Ten Mocasym for short days outside and training, and the Five Ten Siren for long days outside.
Just more evidence it's all about personal preference. I use my 5.10 Mocs for everything, including and especially long days out. Though they're slippers, they are the most comfortable shoe I've had and they make for easy on-easy off at belays as well. I don't have them sized very tightly (don't feel like I need to since they're so sensitive, still can use them for hard bouldering without losing anythign) so they are just super comfy.
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sliianna
Jul 7, 2006, 6:09 AM
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need helpbut have opposite problem- have a WIDE but very small foot. la sportivas are too narrow - the 32 muiras are ok in length (still get suction cup heel) but really painfulas my feet are wide. most other shoes dont come small enought. mad rock is narrow too. can anyone help- the gear shops dont even stock my size, soem shoes dont make my size and i have nothing to compare against. my toes were white when they came out of the muiras.
evolv?
montrail splitter?
kids?
micro foot length is 20.5cm, width 9cm. looks like a triangle at best!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 7, 2006, 3:03 PM
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There is no substitute for trying on a lot of shoes and finding the one htat fits well.
My first pair was 5.10 Saphires, a size smaller than street shoes, stretched way too much, but I think they were perfect first shoes for me.
My second pair now is La Sportiva Testarossa (LOVE Them!!!!) One thing that I missed in Saphires was edging ability. In Testarossas I can stand on a dime. They aren't actually women's shoes, but go figure, they fit me well... But they are very down-turned and my toes start hurting if I'm climbing for 3 days in a row... And I'm discovering that for crack climbing I'd rather have my old stretched-out Saphires.
I have tried on both Mythos and Katanas (quite a few of my female friends wear those), but they didn't feel like THE shoes for me.
I have also toyed with Anasazis. My Dh kept pushing me to get them b/c he just loves his Anasazis. Well, men's versions, both velcro and lace-up were just awful, trying them on was enough to realize that it was a no-no, the heel cup was big enough for my fist... The store didn't have women's version. Then I got a certificate for 5.10, and thought-- O.k., now or never, I'm getting the blue woment's anasazi velcros. Umm... didn't like them. The heel was MUCH better, but they were still way too wide for me-- so I gave them to another girl, who likes them...
Evolv Athenas seem to be a good fit for me, too. Maybe I'll try them someday...
Slightly OT, but I had very good experience with Mountain Tools for ordering shoes. You send them the outline of your foot and describe what you are looking for, and they come up with suggestions for what would be a good fit for you.
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sliianna
Jul 9, 2006, 8:10 AM
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thanks 4 advice- main problem is that thehops dont even stock these shoes so everyt time it is a special order and i would have to buy them regardless.
since i wrote the message, i wrote to evolv directly and also acopausa (john) and they were really really helpful. five ten were the opposite- very unhelpful.
im headign to canada net week and going to see if a gear sgop there will order a few in for me- atleast there is one brand that has small enough size- hope they fit!
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roselle
Jul 12, 2006, 4:10 AM
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Apart from narrow feet, does anyone have a problem with a longer second toe? I heard that Evolv does one specifically to address this problem - the Demorto. Haven't set eyes on this yet - they don't seem to have a female version.......
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dukeandbeads
Jul 18, 2006, 3:28 AM
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Montrail Splitters are designed for that "long second toe" syndrome (also known as Morton's toe.) I loved the edging and firmness of my Splitters, but they aggravated my bunions horribly. I still prefer them for sport climbing, but if I'm going to be in climbing shoes for a few hours, I use my 5.10 Sapphires.
I'm wondering if the Mythos would be a good happy medium. When I get a chance, I'll try some at the local gear store.
Anne
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erickson
Jul 18, 2006, 3:51 PM
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I have a long second toe, and I love my 5.10 Spires. I was borrowing a friend's climbing shoe when I first got into climbing, and I couldn't believe the difference when I found a pair that actually FIT!
Like so many others have said, the best thing to do is try on a bunch of shoes and see which one works for you.
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aerili
Aug 17, 2006, 5:10 AM
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In reply to: Apart from narrow feet, does anyone have a problem with a longer second toe? I heard that Evolv does one specifically to address this problem - the Demorto. Haven't set eyes on this yet - they don't seem to have a female version.......
Roselle,
I haven't worn this specific evolv shoe because it's not made for women, but I own their Athenas and, even though they are still an asymmetrical shoe, they seem to work quite well if you have a narrow, symmetrical foot (like me)!
I also split-sized my Athenas and mentioned to evolv at the time that I would really like to see them make a narrow, symmetrical women's shoe. He replied that they have no plans for such a shoe right now but suggested the Mythos. I told him I already own Mythos and need that same kind of shoe but made for sport climbing with edging capabilities, with support (i.e. lined), and without laces!!
Maybe you can lobby them too. :P
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paige_tpm1
Aug 17, 2006, 1:04 PM
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In reply to: Evolv Athenas seem to be a good fit for me, too.
I just ordered and received my pair from Outdoor Divas. I had ordered a 5.5 and they were WAAAAAAY to tight. I could barely get them off and when I did my feet were beat red.
I wear a size 6 street shoe and my toes are so cramped in Evo's size 6. I normally like any shoe as tight as possible for athletics, however, I wish I would have gone with the 6.5. They haven't stretched much and from the numerous reviews I've read, they don't stretch a ton (I haven't had them long enough to know just how much they will stretch).
They are def. the last things on and the first thing off when climbing but once I'm on the gym wall, they are great! Love the velcro and loops to help get them on when you feet are a little sweaty.
I'm very new to climbing so take this with a grain of salt (I know some climbers go whole sizes or more, below their street shoe size and love em). However, I like my shoes tighter than most people can tolerate for soccer, tennis, boxing, and indoor skydiving.
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wanderinfree
Aug 17, 2006, 2:52 PM
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I've gone through more shoes than I care to think of right about now. In the end, my two favs have been my 5.10 Anasazi's and my Sportiva Muira's. The best part is they both come in a women's version now. Course nothing takes the place of trying them on to get the correct fit, so ordering online is out of the question.
For those gals discussing the longer second toe issue, and are looking for a good trad/crack shoe, check out the Scarpa Thunder's. I love the tighter fit of my anasazi's and muira's on sport and face/edging, but I was killing myself in crack. I almost went back to my 5.10 Spire's (my first shoe), just to keep my toes flat since they were so comfy by now. But I got some advice from our local climbing shop and found the Thunder's. They are perfect for narrowing down around the toe box, but leaving space for the longer second toe. Plus they are stiff enough last to handle crack. Just a great crack shoe.
http://www.scarpa.com/scarpa.php
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 17, 2006, 5:25 PM
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Wanderinfree-- I just tried women's Muira at NRG store and I loved them, too. I am marking them as my "possible next pair". LOL, I try on everything I come across and keep a running tappy in my head of the ones I liked most...
paige_tpm1, I wouldn't have wanted anything too tight when I first started. The first time around, the guy at the store kept telling me to get smaller shoes and I kept saying-- no way, these are tight enough, thank you. Most of the shoes that I tried back then felt like torture, and I just could not envision ever wanting to wear them, so I went with comfy ones... I've come to see the benefits of tighter fit when I started climbing harder (for me, anyway) routes. IMO stuff under 5.10 can be climbed in anything, so there is no point in suffering needlesly.
And my shoes now are definitely not shoes to walk around in-- they are on right before climbing, and off as soon as I'm done with the climb. I would never wear these shoes if I ever 'graduate" to multi-pitch climbing. No way!
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