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shawkshaw


Aug 25, 2002, 3:55 PM
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rap anchors
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just wondering opinions as to anchors on the top of climbs. what do people prefer. two rings, a set of chains, a rap station.
ive seen some dodgy setups over time and am just wondering what other climbers think is the best sport climbing setup
steve


mountaingoatorspidey


Aug 30, 2002, 6:22 AM
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Three "bombproof" anchors. I use webbing to connect them to the rope.

[ This Message was edited by: mountaingoatorspidey on 2002-08-30 06:22 ]


bolder


Aug 30, 2002, 7:57 AM
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I prefer rings. They make it easy to thread and lower without ever completely being untied from the rope.


grayhghost


Aug 30, 2002, 8:04 AM
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How much money are you willing to spend? There are some very nice "hotwire" looking hangers which alow the leader to just clip-in and lower and are impossible to unclip while they are weighted. They cost about $4-5 a pop from most retail shops. If you want to go cheap just get some repair links from the hardware store (100% stainless steel) and put them on the hangers and then wrench the screw-gate very tight. They cost $2-3 a pop and are rated to about 2500 lbs.


pbjosh


Aug 30, 2002, 8:07 AM
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I prefer two (or three) bolts with chains or rap rings permanently affixed. I don't like shuts or any other "lowering device" as it promotes laziness and is both more frequently toproped through and more frequently dangerously worn. Nothing sucks like hitting the top of a climb and finding a pair of 3/4 worn through shuts. Sport weenies

That having been said, I've rapped off of pickets, nuts, slung horns, flakes and chockstones, slung trees and branches, screws, bollards. I've rapped off of single bolts (including gnarly old 1/4" pound in with homemade hangers that flex visibly - yikes!) I've done counterweight rappels (two people rapping off opposite sides of something with the rope draped over the top, hopefully in some sort of groove to keep it in place!).

I've also done my fair share (ie, a LOT) of anchor improvements/renovations. I've replaced a lot of bolts, put rap stations in, replaced even more webbing, etc etc.

Josh


jt512


Aug 30, 2002, 7:01 PM
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Open shuts. No untying, threading, and retying. Just flip the rope thru and lower.

-Jay


shawkshaw


Sep 3, 2002, 4:08 AM
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the hanger idea sounds good although i generally still prefer the two ring bolts. easy to set up TR with draws and also easy to rap off. I must admit that clip gates at the top does make for easy lowering.
cheers. one method i have used lately is a single ring above a sideways U bolt. not too bad either although two rings is better
steve


overlord


Sep 9, 2002, 3:15 AM
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cahins with rings, piggy tails or biners. at least two independenly loaded bolts. if one fails, the other holds...

CLIMB ON


paintinhaler


Sep 9, 2002, 4:15 AM
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If your buying rap anchors check out http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/dept.asp?dept_id=436&opt=, for fixe and other brands of anchors. All kinds 2 ring, chain, clip shunts, non-stealable carabiner anchors, and other kinds. Im gettin ready to buy some anchors and the rest of my freinds for the local crag. If you get more people in on it the shipping wont be so bad. But I this Barrabes is the best way too go.


tigerbythetail


Sep 9, 2002, 11:49 PM
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 If it is a bolted climb then all metal. A minimum of two 3/8" to 1/2" bolts with commercial bolt hangers, 3/8" quicklinks (look like mini locking biners) and 3/8" high-test chain.

If it's multi-pitch then three bolts at the belay are nice. That way you have an anchor and give the leader a piece to clip and not fall on the belay directly.

Lastly, if it's a sport route and the finish of the climb is in an ackward spot (at a bulge or under a roof) it's nice to use a cold shut or fixed steel biner setup- something easy to clip into and not untie, preferably something that will hold up fairly well to the wear and tear.

[ This Message was edited by: tigerbythetail on 2002-09-09 23:51 ]


boltdude


Sep 29, 2002, 9:30 PM
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Depends on the rock and the climbing.

Open cold shuts are annoying as all hell to replace and are unsafe when they wear way down, and somewhat unsafe to begin with.

We've recently been using large tow hooks ("Mussy" hooks) at Owens River Gorge, which is infamous for the fine-grained dust that gets into your rope and saws through the best steel in months. The hooks are attached to a normal bolt hanger with a beefy screw-link and are thus easily replaced.

The rock type will have a lot to do with the best set-up; for instance, in the poor rock of Pinnacles National Monument it's important to equalize longer chains to prevent changing the direction of loading of the bolt which can lead to the rock breaking. On the other hand, in a sport area with anchors finishing on overhangs, it's really important to make the anchor easily clippable (a downside to the Mussy hooks).


krustyklimber


Sep 29, 2002, 10:36 PM
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Once again I fully agree with Jay/jt512, open shuts, wit a back-up clip (like at Owens River Gorge) are the best thing to happen to sport climbing since the cordless roto hammer and Gri-gris!

Jeff


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