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ullr
May 9, 2006, 12:58 AM
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Legal, not really. The park service employee interviewed said no named arch in the park is legal to be climbed. Thanks for the great impression you are leaving for the rest of us climbers. :roll: In reply to: Delicate Arch climb has park chief red in the face By Lisa J. Church Special to The Tribune Dean Potter climbs Delicate Arch, one of the most popular sandstone arches, at Arches National Park early Sunday. Authorities are not amused. (Photo courtesy of Dean Potter) MOAB - For almost 12 years, Dean Potter studied the tiny cracks and crevices in Delicate Arch, searching out potential fingerholds and footholds that could aid his ascent of Utah's most famous icon. On Sunday morning, Potter, a professional climber known for his speed and agility, put that research to the test, successfully scaling the 45-foot monument "free solo" - without the aid of ropes and other climbing gear. But the 34-year-old part-time Moab resident's achievement doesn't sit well with National Park Service officials and some fellow climbing enthusiasts. "I'm very sorry to see someone do this to Utah's most visible icon," said the park's superintendent, Laura Joss. "I would just ask if they think it's a good idea to encourage this." Potter believed that as long as he used no fixed anchors and did not damage the rock, he was free to climb Delicate Arch. Not so, says Joss. It was an idea that Potter, a climbing ambassador for outdoor-gear company Patagonia, could not get out of his head. "For the past four years or so, I've been going up there kind of obsessively and looking at it in every possible light," Potter said Tuesday. "When I realized I was going to try this, I started going out to it more and more frequently." Feeling his way along the rock face early Sunday morning, Potter inched his way to the top of Delicate Arch, stood on the flat, wide shelf and looked out over the Moab Valley. "This was one of the most beautiful climbs I've ever done," Potter said. "For me, it was just an overwhelming experience, as if the formation was vibrating with energy." Once atop the arch, Potter lowered a string to retrieve a climbing rope to make his descent. He says he climbed Delicate Arch "several times in a two-hour period." Even one time is too many, Joss said. "The intent of our [regulations] is that all named arches are closed to climbing," Joss said. "If the compendium is found not to be sufficient, we will work with our solicitor posthaste to put a closure on Delicate Arch immediately." Arches allows climbing ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- Advertisement ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- in some areas, and Joss said that in the past climbers have respected the rules, which include prohibitions on climbing the park's most famous rock formations. Matt Moore, owner of Desert Highlights, a climbing outfitter in Moab, said he has always understood that park regulations prohibit climbing on Delicate Arch. "Probably every climber looks at it and thinks it would be great to climb Delicate Arch," Moore said. "On the one hand, it was probably a great ascent for Dean, but at the same time, I can't condone it because it is against park regulations." Patagonia's publicity department initially alerted the media to Potter's ascent, but indicated it may back off on further promotions after learning that Potter may have broken park service regulations. His Delicate Arch ascent marks the second time in as many years that Potter has come to the attention of Arches officials. The park recently changed its regulations to prohibit "slacklining" - a sport in which flexible nylon rope is stretched between two points, often over a steep fissure, and walked like a tightrope - after Potter slacklined the Three Gossips, another well-known rock formation in the park, Joss said. Potter said he took great care to leave Delicate Arch undisturbed, and he is unapologetic about undertaking the challenge. "I am very conscientious about following nature's rules. I respected the arch to the fullest. I did no more than blow a little dust off a few handholds," Potter said. "What has our world come to if we cannot join nature by climbing one of nature's most beautiful features?" _________________
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dru
May 9, 2006, 1:34 AM
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Gee how many famous climbers with the initials DP live in Moab :lol:
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toejam
May 9, 2006, 1:40 AM
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Yeah, anyone who climbs something without permission should be shot!
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sbaclimber
May 9, 2006, 1:45 AM
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According to the thread linked to in the OP, someone in Utah should have seen the report on the nightly news.........anyone? As far as I can tell, it would have been 'brought to you by Steve Baron, the weather guy' :P
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ullr
May 9, 2006, 1:52 AM
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In reply to: According to the thread linked to in the OP, someone in Utah should have seen the report on the nightly news.........anyone? As far as I can tell, it would have been 'brought to you by Steve Baron, the weather guy' :P I live in SLC and know Mr. Baron. I will watch the show, tape it, and possible post it here. I hope they had permission. Otherwise we will be taking a step backwards in access. I kind of would assume they would have permission, if Steve is interviewing them.
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sbaclimber
May 9, 2006, 1:55 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: According to the thread linked to in the OP, someone in Utah should have seen the report on the nightly news.........anyone? As far as I can tell, it would have been 'brought to you by Steve Baron, the weather guy' :P I live in SLC and know Mr. Baron. I will watch the show, tape it, and possible post it here. I hope they had permission. Otherwise we will be taking a step backwards in access. I kind of would assume they would have permission, if Steve is interviewing them. I would most certainly hope so as well, though Steve didn't say one way or the other in the TetonGravity thread. I just can't image the NPS giving permission for something like that though. Edit, and thanks for keeping an eye out for the report (and potentially providing a vid of it).
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roseraie
May 9, 2006, 3:29 AM
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In reply to: ...the inconsiderate asshat should be hung by his testicles from the arch. Thanks for potentially screwing up access issues in an already sensitive area. I'll hazard a guess that climbing the arch to string someone up by their testicles would probably not help your access issues much. :twisted:
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ullr
May 9, 2006, 3:50 AM
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The ranger stated no arch that is named in the park can be climbed. Legality sounded marginal in the TV report.
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musicman
May 9, 2006, 3:52 AM
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i just saw the news report on Potter's climb. The ranger they interviewed seemed pretty upset, but he didn't break any laws, from what they said it seemed he more manipulated the law than anything else. i'm not sure exactly, wasn't all that clear. they did interview dean, he haid some good things to say. had some cool footage too of him on it. looked well within his comfort level. i think it was a pretty cool feet, hopefully it doesn't screw up access issues or cause too much drama.
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ullr
May 9, 2006, 3:53 AM
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From the Arches NP website.
In reply to: Regulations Use of motorized drills is prohibited. Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps; on Balanced Rock year-round; on Bubo from January 1st to June 30th; on Industrial Disease on the Devil Dog Spire from January 1st to June 30th. The use of chalk for climbing must be of a color which blends with the native rock. Thanks Potter, for so visually giving climbers a bad reputation in the park. And thanks to the tool from the climbing shop who thought his climb should be praised. :roll:
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ullr
May 9, 2006, 3:55 AM
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In reply to: i just saw the news report on Potter's climb. The ranger they interviewed seemed pretty upset, but he didn't break any laws, from what they said it seemed he more manipulated the law than anything else. i'm not sure exactly, wasn't all that clear. they did interview dean, he haid some good things to say. had some cool footage too of him on it. looked well within his comfort level. i think it was a pretty cool feet, hopefully it doesn't screw up access issues or cause too much drama. Are you kidding me? Sure, he may have manipulated the law. But do we need manipulation on Fox13 news? Do we need a selfish climber fucking access up? Using WHITE chalk on the route?
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ullr
May 9, 2006, 3:57 AM
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Let me requote or those who don't get it.
In reply to: Regulations Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps; The use of chalk for climbing must be of a color which blends with the native rock. If nothing else, he used white chalk on THE most popular visual piece of the park, and did it on Fox13 news. Great publicity for us all.
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curt
May 9, 2006, 4:00 AM
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In reply to: Let me requote or those who don't get it. In reply to: Regulations Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps; The use of chalk for climbing must be of a color which blends with the native rock. If nothing else, he used white chalk on THE most popular visual piece of the park, and did it on Fox13 news. Great publicity for us all. Isn't white the usual color of bird shit? How more natural can you get? :D Curt
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musicman
May 9, 2006, 4:01 AM
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no no no! of course not, i was just stating what i saw. all i knew i heard from mr steve baron. the white chalk thing is pretty bad. i didn't mean to come across like that at all. it was a cool thing to do, but not under those circumstances. manipulation is no good, especially not within the climbing community, especially not being played all over tv. i was just saying what i saw on the news. i wasn't aware of the white chalk thing either. makes sense, definitley.
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cintune
May 9, 2006, 12:41 PM
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Cravin' choke puppy, DP.
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mackavus
May 9, 2006, 1:23 PM
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In reply to: BLAH,BLAH,BLAH
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ullr
May 9, 2006, 1:27 PM
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Delicate Arch climb has park chief red in the face By Lisa J. Church Special to The Tribune Dean Potter climbs Delicate Arch, one of the most popular sandstone arches, at Arches National Park early Sunday. Authorities are not amused. (Photo courtesy of Dean Potter) MOAB - For almost 12 years, Dean Potter studied the tiny cracks and crevices in Delicate Arch, searching out potential fingerholds and footholds that could aid his ascent of Utah's most famous icon. On Sunday morning, Potter, a professional climber known for his speed and agility, put that research to the test, successfully scaling the 45-foot monument "free solo" - without the aid of ropes and other climbing gear. But the 34-year-old part-time Moab resident's achievement doesn't sit well with National Park Service officials and some fellow climbing enthusiasts. "I'm very sorry to see someone do this to Utah's most visible icon," said the park's superintendent, Laura Joss. "I would just ask if they think it's a good idea to encourage this." Potter believed that as long as he used no fixed anchors and did not damage the rock, he was free to climb Delicate Arch. Not so, says Joss. It was an idea that Potter, a climbing ambassador for outdoor-gear company Patagonia, could not get out of his head. "For the past four years or so, I've been going up there kind of obsessively and looking at it in every possible light," Potter said Tuesday. "When I realized I was going to try this, I started going out to it more and more frequently." Feeling his way along the rock face early Sunday morning, Potter inched his way to the top of Delicate Arch, stood on the flat, wide shelf and looked out over the Moab Valley. "This was one of the most beautiful climbs I've ever done," Potter said. "For me, it was just an overwhelming experience, as if the formation was vibrating with energy." Once atop the arch, Potter lowered a string to retrieve a climbing rope to make his descent. He says he climbed Delicate Arch "several times in a two-hour period." Even one time is too many, Joss said. "The intent of our [regulations] is that all named arches are closed to climbing," Joss said. "If the compendium is found not to be sufficient, we will work with our solicitor posthaste to put a closure on Delicate Arch immediately." Arches allows climbing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Advertisement -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- in some areas, and Joss said that in the past climbers have respected the rules, which include prohibitions on climbing the park's most famous rock formations. Matt Moore, owner of Desert Highlights, a climbing outfitter in Moab, said he has always understood that park regulations prohibit climbing on Delicate Arch. "Probably every climber looks at it and thinks it would be great to climb Delicate Arch," Moore said. "On the one hand, it was probably a great ascent for Dean, but at the same time, I can't condone it because it is against park regulations." Patagonia's publicity department initially alerted the media to Potter's ascent, but indicated it may back off on further promotions after learning that Potter may have broken park service regulations. His Delicate Arch ascent marks the second time in as many years that Potter has come to the attention of Arches officials. The park recently changed its regulations to prohibit "slacklining" - a sport in which flexible nylon rope is stretched between two points, often over a steep fissure, and walked like a tightrope - after Potter slacklined the Three Gossips, another well-known rock formation in the park, Joss said. Potter said he took great care to leave Delicate Arch undisturbed, and he is unapologetic about undertaking the challenge. "I am very conscientious about following nature's rules. I respected the arch to the fullest. I did no more than blow a little dust off a few handholds," Potter said. "What has our world come to if we cannot join nature by climbing one of nature's most beautiful features?"
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ullr
May 9, 2006, 1:28 PM
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Congratulations on your worshipping of your hero and his potential limiting of YOURs and others privelege of climbing in Arches. :roll: Maybe you could get some kneepads, and continue sucking.
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killclimbz
May 9, 2006, 1:32 PM
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In reply to: Isn't white the usual color of bird s---? How more natural can you get? :D Curt HA! :righton:
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mackavus
May 9, 2006, 1:33 PM
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[quote="ullr"]In reply to: In reply to: BLAH,BLAH,BLAH Congratulations on your worshipping of your hero and his potential limiting of YOURs and others privelege of climbing in Arches. :roll: Maybe you could get some kneepads, and continue sucking. Ummm, when did I said Dean Potter was my hero?
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ullr
May 9, 2006, 1:34 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Isn't white the usual color of bird s---? How more natural can you get? :D Curt HA! :righton: Impressions last longer than chalk. Curt, you fight for your precious bouldering in Queen Creek to keep it from the mining, but you could care less about Arches?
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j_ung
May 9, 2006, 1:34 PM
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This is not Community. Please elevate the discourse accordingly. RC.com
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j_ung
May 9, 2006, 1:38 PM
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This is not Community. Please elevate the discourse accordingly. Ullr, would you please consider changing your thread title to reflect my request? RC.com
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killclimbz
May 9, 2006, 1:41 PM
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Obviously you enjoy climbing at Arches and Dean's actions have your feathers ruffled. Be happy that it was Dean Potter that pulled this stupid stunt and not a bunch of no name climbers. It holds us as a group much less responsible. As I said on the TGR thread, if others decide to do this then you have a problem. I don't think people in the climbing community are going to do this. Much like like what's his name John Thesenga(?) from climbing magazine, climbing up a formation at J-tree and pouring gas down a slab and lighting it on fire. The repercussions fell on him and not the climbing community as a whole. It's lame that he climbed it. Right now all indications are that the Park Service is pissed at DP and not the climbing community as a whole.
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j_ung
May 9, 2006, 1:41 PM
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Thank you. :)
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