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1 for 7 on Halletts Chimney
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--ross
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May 14, 2006, 2:47 PM
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1 for 7 on Halletts Chimney
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Wahoo, finally made it to the top of this route yesterday 13MAY06,
There was actually ice on the chock stone pitch and the pitch after that; which had hanging ice, never scene that before.
:lol:
--Ross


pebbleman


May 15, 2006, 7:21 AM
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Re: 1 for 7 on Halletts Chimney [In reply to]
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Good show. What did the approach entail, did you need skis or did you just boot up there?


cologman


May 15, 2006, 7:39 AM
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Re: 1 for 7 on Halletts Chimney [In reply to]
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Congratulations.... I can somewhat relate to the vexing problems posed by Halletts Chimney. Back in the early '70's (71-72) Michael Covington gave a guest lecture to the CSU Mounaineering Club and indicated several of what he felt were the significant winter climbs to be done in RMNP. Halletts Chimney was among them. Fueled by that and a desire to emulate any of a number of Scottish hardmen a couple of partners and I made several forays up into the Chimeny under full winter conditions. Once even bivied just below the chock stone. Never was able to tic it but had some good times playing the hardman role :lol: :lol: :lol:


--ross
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Jun 5, 2006, 9:26 AM
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Re: 1 for 7 on Halletts Chimney [In reply to]
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With the hot 70's weather here at home I'm reminiscing on one of the pitches of Halletts chimney
that I took a couple of falls on but eventually made it. Take your 3 star ice climb, steep vertical ice, some bulges, places to stand and get a screw in. All in all a great time and well worth it.

I hope to get a picture of this pitch, its not like anything I've climbed before. Its a bright sunny day but where your at it's subdued the light filters in bouncing off the rocks way above. Picture two walls separated about 20' apart 200' high, in front of you 30' up looms a 20' cornice with a foot thick ice cube glued to its bottom. You've been climbing all day and its mid afternoon now, your partner has just lead the crux chockstone pitch, with a spot of aid and mostly good style. Now its one of the last pitches of the day, you move up the snow, wall ice, and rock, clipping a fixed pin on the left until your under the cube. The wall on the right side of the cube is covered in transparent ice glued to the rock. The ice is a triangluar cover over the rock, formed from dripping icicles above.

You get a stub screw in the ice and move onto the wall and up trusting your tools, and glad that you took the time to sharpen them the night before. As the ice ends it turns to alpine ice then a tiny snow step that requires a quick mantle. Now your next to the cube, behind and under the icicles in the dark corner and you find tatted sling next to a horn with a loose rock that you gladly sling and clip. As you lean and stem out your only way up is the cube, icicles break, then more; you try to get a foot into the cube but the soft snow is not taking much weight, but just enough to get under the ice and the left tool near the ice covering the top of the cube. Tic tic tic goes the right tool, its verglas, over snow.

You weight the right tool as you put more and more weight on the soft snow in the cube, your pack is catching on the icicles which you free with diffculty. The stem is growing, and growing finially its time and you trust the right and begin to move the left tool up, one tic then wooish down you go, icicles crack, snow explodes around you, woomph. Your caught by the sling on the horn and the loose rock under the sling hasn't moved.

Soon enough your back to your high point. Kick kick kick, this time maybe the foot will stay. With the stem as big as you can make it, the right tool goes in. Its time again, tic tic tic in goes the left and you end the stem trying to get your foot into the corner. POP! goes the snow foot, but the tools stay, and you know that its only a matter of time. Both feet scratching. Now the right, out it goes then; Wham it sticks. Finally after a few more moves your able to get an untrustworthly foot. More ice moves, now your weight is mosly on your feet and you can turn your focus beyond the two feet around you. The ice is good on your right and above you is a small stance for one foot.
At the stance the required bomb proof nut placement that seems to stare back at your face. Its up vertical ice for 10' and a hundred foot 70 degree ramp of alpine plastic-like ice. Phew, 1 for 7 buddy; its worth every penny of sweat and time.

--Ross


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