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Eiger - North Face
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skinner


May 24, 2006, 6:15 AM
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Eiger - North Face
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Does anyone know anything about "The Squirrels Pillar" on the North Face of Eiger?

I came across this while reading about "Terrordactyles":

In reply to:
"The first prototypes of the Terrors were used by Bugs McKeith during the first ascent of The Squirrels Pillar, on the North Face of Eiger."

I never heard of "Squirrels Pillar" and can't seem to find anything on it.


thomasribiere


Jun 4, 2006, 6:08 AM
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There's a Pilier des Ecureuils in the Gorges du Verdon... but I found nothing similar on the Eiger.


skinner


Jun 4, 2006, 6:54 AM
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Thank You. but I solved the Squirrel Mystery. Although it may be known only within this small select circle.. it was a member of a group of Edinburgh Climbers known as "The Squirrels" who climbed and subsequently named this feature.

In reply to:
Cubby
17/1/2002

"As one of a group of outstanding young Edinburgh climbers who called themselves The Squirrels, Dave (Bathgate) and fellow member, Bugs McKeith inspired what was to become one of the most powerful Scottish climbing partnerships during the 60s. Like many Scots before him however, Bugs emigrated to Canada. It was here, having adapted his Scottish winter experiences, that he pioneered a new approach to ice climbing. The results were impressive and many cutting edge frozen waterfalls were climbed, such as Pilsner Pillar, Ice Nine and Takakaw Falls. Bugs also left his mark on the big alpine faces of the Rockies but tragically, it was here that he and his wife met their fate, killed while attempting a new route on Mount Assinaboyne."

I believe there are a few errors in the above article. Although a minor one.. "Assinaboyne" is spelled "Assiniboine"
It was in the winter of 1978 when Bugs McKeith attempted a solo ascent of Mount Assiniboines North Face.

http://www.beentheresawthat.com/...rta/800pics/ab10.jpg

"Solo".. as the term implies, he was alone and did not perish with his wife. In fact as far as I know he was never married. He did have a lady in his life who not only lived and climbed with him, but along with Sharon Wood was a member of the first all-women team to summit Mount Logan. She is very much alive and still occasionally attends the local mountain club meetings.


thomasribiere


Jun 5, 2006, 2:46 PM
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I think there's an association of climbers in the Dolomites named "the squirrels" too. In Italian, of course. It must be the group of Cortina d'Ampezzo, but my memory might be wrong on this fact.


brianinslc


Jun 6, 2006, 8:26 AM
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In reply to:
I think there's an association of climbers in the Dolomites named "the squirrels" too. In Italian, of course. It must be the group of Cortina d'Ampezzo, but my memory might be wrong on this fact.

Possibly the "Lecco Spiders"?

www.ragnilecco.com

-Brian in SLC


korman643


Jul 1, 2006, 1:50 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I think there's an association of climbers in the Dolomites named "the squirrels" too. In Italian, of course. It must be the group of Cortina d'Ampezzo, but my memory might be wrong on this fact.

Possibly the "Lecco Spiders"?

www.ragnilecco.com

-Brian in SLC

There's an actual group of climbers called "Scoiattoli di Cortina" (Squirrels of Cortina), and it's a sort of local version of the more famour "Ragni" of Lecco (whose members includes/included famous names like Cassin, Bonatti, Carlo Mauri, etc). While the "Ragni" is an actual group with some relevant weight into the "politics of climbing" in Italy (they've even a rather interesting magazine called "Stile Alpino"), The "Scoiattoli" is more a loose assembly of local guides. Famous "Scoiattoli" are Lino Lacedelli, first summiter of K2, and the notorious Cesare Maestri.


skinner


Aug 4, 2006, 10:03 AM
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Speaking of the Eiger.. I've been using this as my homepage:

http://www.bahnhof-scheidegg.ch/...asp?38120.5767013889

..and watching the face for a few weeks. I would really hate to be on there right now :shock:

http://www.netspy.net/...bing/fx/eigercam.jpg


paolo75


Aug 8, 2006, 3:00 AM
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In reply to:
There's an actual group of climbers called "Scoiattoli di Cortina" (Squirrels of Cortina), and it's a sort of local version of the more famour "Ragni" of Lecco (whose members includes/included famous names like Cassin, Bonatti, Carlo Mauri, etc). While the "Ragni" is an actual group with some relevant weight into the "politics of climbing" in Italy (they've even a rather interesting magazine called "Stile Alpino"), The "Scoiattoli" is more a loose assembly of local guides. Famous "Scoiattoli" are Lino Lacedelli, first summiter of K2, and the notorious Cesare Maestri.

Correct, here the links to their websites:
Scoiattoli di cortina: http://www.scoiattoli.org/index.lasso?cl=7&l=1
Ragni di Lecco: http://www.ragnilecco.com/...l1=40&lvl2=458&sez=1

Ciao
Paolo


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