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What Kind of Rope Should I Get?
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boardline22


May 25, 2006, 11:19 AM
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What Kind of Rope Should I Get?
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Hi I am building up my gear and I have come to a point where I need a rope. Problem I have found is I don't know where to start with brands, length, diameter. and etc.; I was hoping some people could gve me some suggestions on what to buy. I am going to be leading trad and maybe some sport, I will also use it for top roping. I will get the dry rope too. I still don't know how long I need it to be though. Yes I did search the site already.


climbingaggie03


May 25, 2006, 11:36 AM
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60 meters long, and I'd say between 10mm and 10.5mm in diameter for your first rope get the cheapest one you can


redlegrangerone


May 25, 2006, 12:47 PM
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You could buy the one from the guy in the "How long is my rope?" thread if he ever finds out how long it is.

But I really like my Mammut 9.5. I used it for trad and sometimes sport. I have been very happy with it. The small diameter does scare some people at first, but you quickly get used to it.


kubi


May 25, 2006, 1:58 PM
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60 meters long, and I'd say between 10mm and 10.5mm in diameter for your first rope get the cheapest one you can

what he said. This is my current rope, and I've been really happy with it.

http://mgear.com/...id/0/level2_id/0/N/0

why are you getting a dry rope? If you don't plan on doing any ice/alpine, there's no need.


boardline22


May 25, 2006, 2:35 PM
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incase I ever get caught in the rain


lstockett


May 25, 2006, 3:01 PM
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Read this:

http://www.tradgirl.com/..._gear.htm#buy%20rope

Also, do a forum search on this website. The topic has come up before.


thegroundhurts


May 25, 2006, 3:12 PM
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Unless you plan on leading often in hard rain, instead of rapping off like most people, theres no need for a dry rope.

As for the length, most people around here (the southeast) go for 60m, but where are you going to be climbing? whats the longest pitch you plan on doing? If its a long multipitch, whats the typical distance between rap stations? The guidebook to your climbing area could help more on that than we could.

As for diameter, its not as relevant as some might make you think, as long as its rated for single-rope use. (unless you're planning on doubles of course.)

And brand, I know people that have had issues with blue water, but that was years ago, I've got a sterling 10.6mm (2yrs old now) thats been perfect, and, well, the rc users could argue about that for pages without anyone agreeing on anything.


mattm


May 25, 2006, 3:32 PM
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Thinkness = 10mm - 10.5mm

Dry = sure if you don't mind the cost but either will be ok

length = 60m UNLESS you don't plan on a lot of multi pitch and just a lot of cragging - then get the 70m.

brand - Favs = Mammut, edelweiss, beal and bluewater


jimdavis


May 25, 2006, 5:54 PM
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I stillllll don't get why people love Mammut ropes so much...I've climbed on 3 and never noticed anything special about them.

a 10.5 is a nice diameter...easy to hold, easy to untie, durable, etc.

60 meters is the standard...thats your safest bet.

dry coating? i wouldn't bother...not for a rope your just gonna wear out top roping.

My BlueWater 10.5 treated me really well, and I know more than a few people that have had the same rope and loved it. I just bought a Sterling 9.8 the other day and am anxious to try it out.

Brands don't matter a whole lot....Beal ropes are super stretchy though (great for Ice, bad to Top Roping). I know people that've have good and bad ropes from just about every brand out there...it's a crap-shoot. I got a bad rope from PMI and won't buy them again....but that's just me. Get what's on sale.

Cheers,
Jim


djoseph


May 25, 2006, 6:26 PM
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My BlueWater 10.5 treated me really well, and I know more than a few people that have had the same rope and loved it.

Also just got a Bluewater Accelerator (10.5) and like the feel. Mamuts felt a bit stiff, and I wasn't ready for the stretch of the Beal. (But perhaps next rope).

Dan


blouderk2


May 25, 2006, 6:38 PM
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Sterling or Mammut, I own both. They are great ropes and they handle well. I suggest getting a rope diameter between 10.2 and 10.5.


electricdisciple


May 25, 2006, 6:48 PM
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A sterling 10.2 X 60m marathon sport will do you fine! It's the best rope and the cheapest rope you'll ever find at $164.00


jimdavis


May 25, 2006, 9:42 PM
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A sterling 10.2 X 60m marathon sport will do you fine! It's the best rope and the cheapest rope you'll ever find at $164.00

I'll second that....I've used sterling marathon ropes for a while (where I work we've had 2 sets) and they hold up reallllly well.

A 10.2 marathon will last you longer than just about anything else out there (ie: their 11mm marathon :lol:)

On a side note:

Looking at the rating on the marathon vs. evolution series ropes (sterling line-up) the evolution series take a few more UIAA drops than the comperable marathon ropes....reason being there is less stretchy core in Marathons and more less-stretchy sheath.

So considering that your stressing the core of the rope a little bit more on with each drop (with the Marathons) I would think this type of rope would wear out faster if you used it as a sport rope (falling a lot, stressing the core, with minimal sheath wear) So it would seem to me that the Marathon ropes are best suited to trad climbers where you fuzz up the ropes from rope drag and climbing slabs, more than you wear them out from falling on them (like a sport application)...is this right? Anyone have any experience of a Marathon rope loosing it's stretch a little faster than a non-Marathon rope?

Just curious, thanks!
Jim


boardline22


May 25, 2006, 10:33 PM
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I'll mostly be climbing up at Devil's Lake wisonsin where I will lead trad half the time and top rope the rest of the time


kubi


May 26, 2006, 8:06 AM
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Get what's on sale.

best advice on this thread.


keinangst


May 26, 2006, 8:34 AM
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Seconded "the cheapest UIAA rope you find".

I got a Bluewater 10.5mm x 50m as my first rope, and it does fine on 90% of sport/trad crag routes. It was only $80 at sportchalet.com. Not sure about DL routes, but most places you're fine with 50 meters (up to 75' routes). Just make sure in advance.

Next time I'll go up to a 60m (~$120) to take care of 99% of crags and help with the longer stuff.

Dry treatments are supposedly overrated except for alpine/ice, etc.

HTH


markc


May 26, 2006, 8:44 AM
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But I really like my Mammut 9.5. I used it for trad and sometimes sport. I have been very happy with it. The small diameter does scare some people at first, but you quickly get used to it.

For an all-around rope (especially one that will see regular toproping), I prefer something thicker. A more beefy sheath is going to increase the lifespan of the rope. Thin ropes certainly have their place, but I think 10.2 - 10.5 is the sweet spot for a general purpose rope.

Unless you have specific needs for certain features (bi-weave, etc.), look for the least expensive rope in the length and diameter you want. With a good deal, you can probably find a 10.5 mm x 60 m rope for between $100 and $125.


kubi


May 26, 2006, 8:46 AM
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I'd recomend NOT getting a 50m rope. 99% of the climbs I do don't require all 60m of my rope, but it sure would suck to be 3/4 of the way down a rappell only to realize that the ends of your rope are still 5m off the ground.


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