Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Visiting Boulder Canyon for the first time.

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Visiting Boulder Canyon for the first time.

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bcombs

Jun 1, 2006, 4:39 PM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2006
Posts: 30

Visiting Boulder Canyon for the first time. (North_America: United_States: Colorado: Boulder_Area: Boulder_Canyon) Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Hello,

I'll be heading to Boulder Canyon this Sunday (06/04) with my wife. It's our first trip and I was curious if someone could help out with some beta. We are looking to climb sport from 5.10 - 5.11b/c. (Of course being new to the area I probably won't get to my limit (5.11b) :wink: )

Looking at the online guide Avalon looks pretty good. Are there other areas that you might suggest? It's supposed to be nice weather this weekend so I'm assuming a crowd no matter where I go. Are there areas that have our range that are less crowded?

Of course we would like to meet some locals too so if anyone wants to meet at the crag that's cool too.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Brad

djoseph

Jun 1, 2006, 4:47 PM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 197

Re: Visiting Boulder Canyon for the first time. [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Hey there Brad. Avalon is indeed fun. A few thoughts:

1. Prepare for a tyrolean traverse over Boulder Creek to get to Avalon, if you go there. Most people find this a fun plus, though I imagine that some folks might find it intimidating.

2. IMO, Avalon grades are reasonable -- not as soft as places like Sport Park. I find 10's there to be pretty challenging.

3. Fun climbs: Supernatural (11a); The Clipboard (short 11b); Dead Again (10 b/c); Wheel of Fortune/The Tower/The Fool (10s); Dominator (10 b/c).

I might (?) be around this weekend -- not sure. Feel free to PM me if you'd like company.

Enjoy,
Dan

wenclg1

Jun 1, 2006, 5:56 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2005
Posts: 57

Re: Visiting Boulder Canyon for the first time. [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Check out Upper Dream Canyon. The mountainproject.com page has excellent info for the area and the Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon Falcon guide is some what dated, but has a wide range of routes. There are a ton of 10s to 11s in Upper Dream Canyon, and also a 5.9 bolted multi pitch to climb out of the canyon as well, Wrinkles In Time. HAve fun.

rkepley_1

Jun 1, 2006, 7:10 PM
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Registered: Feb 7, 2006
Posts: 27

Re: Visiting Boulder Canyon for the first time. [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Hi there, Try to find shade this weekend! Temps will be in the low 90's. South facing cliffs will be way to hot to climb on for sure.

Dream canyon is an amazing place to climb. It gets morning shade but eventually comes into the sun. Awesome bolted routes on textured granite. Try to find someone local to go with there because the approach can be confusing the first time.

I would recommend "Sherwood forest" and "Easter Rock" for great climbing and plenty of shade. The approach to Sherwood requires a T Traverse. Water is just gushing now!

good luck!