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lil_monkey
Jun 17, 2006, 11:46 PM
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About how long is the standard length for a prussik and how long should i get the accessory cord so i have room to tie the two double fishermen's knots and still have the prussik the length i want it.
peace!
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moose_droppings
Jun 18, 2006, 12:13 AM
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5'-6', tie off the loop to whatever size you want. I use an EDK.
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rockguide
Jun 18, 2006, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: About how long is the standard length for a prussik and how long should i get the accessory cord so i have room to tie the two double fishermen's knots and still have the prussik the length i want it. peace!
There is no standard length of prussik as there is no standard method of prussiking. I use two 5 metre lengths but that ends up with excess cord. (my prussiks also double for rock rescue where the added length is helpful. I use the EDK, like the poster before. I could use 2 1.5 metre prussiks as well, if there were some over the shoulder slings available.
Have you prussiked before? If so, you know your system and should be able to measure more precisely. If not, find some one who does, or a book about it and base your lengths on that. Your height may play a role in the lengths.
If you have not prussiked before, are not about to learn, and just want them "in case", you have placed the cart squarely in front of the horse.
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lil_monkey
Jun 18, 2006, 1:48 AM
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yes, i have prussiked before, i'm just trying to find out how much extra cord i need to factor in for the knot
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kachoong
Jun 18, 2006, 2:15 AM
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...I ususally use 25-30 times the diameter of the cord/rope to use for the knot... so for 6mm prussik - about 150-180mm for each knot... I make a few different length prussiks and carry them all together. Each length will serve a different purpose. The length I find versatile is about 60 cm (about 24")... so I guess that's 120cm of cord plus a bit over 30cm for the knots (1.5m total). I like to use shorter one's for use as an autoblock when rapping... etc. etc... there's plenty of different lengths and uses...
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jimdavis
Jun 18, 2006, 2:16 AM
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In reply to: yes, i have prussiked before, i'm just trying to find out how much extra cord i need to factor in for the knot
Of course, the stuff only costs .25$/ foot or less, so tacking on an extra foot or 2, just to be sure you have enough, is hardly a costly option.
Cheers,
Jim
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cintune
Jun 18, 2006, 2:19 AM
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Accessory cord is cheap, just get a good long piece, like 30 ft. or so, and experiment with different knots and lengths until you come up with your own answer to the question. You can always find uses for any leftover cord.
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notch
Jun 18, 2006, 7:46 PM
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In reply to: I use the EDK, like the poster before.
Now to answer the question; 5 feet is pretty standard for a 2 foot prussik.
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deltav
Jun 18, 2006, 9:05 PM
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Depends on what you are using the prusik for. For rappel back up, I use 3'. For rescues, I think mine is 6'.
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majid_sabet
Jun 18, 2006, 9:48 PM
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140 cm for short size
155 cm for long size
min diameter of the prusik is 50% to 75% of the rope diameter size
if you are using 11 mm rope size then use 7 or 8 mm cord
10.2 rope use 7 mm cord
9.8 mm rope use 6 or 7 mm prusik cord
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curtis_g
Jun 18, 2006, 10:24 PM
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cut yourself a 7' cord length per prussik, tie in loop w/double fishermans
good to go.
I looked for this answer before when I was making my firsts and wish someone would just spit out a fricken number.
SEVEN FOOT LENGTH OF CORD
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jimdavis
Jun 18, 2006, 11:03 PM
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In reply to: cut yourself a 7' cord length per prussik, tie in loop w/double fishermans good to go. I looked for this answer before when I was making my firsts and wish someone would just spit out a fricken number. SEVEN FOOT LENGTH OF CORD
Just cause you come across like you think 7' is the answer.....your wrong. :twisted:
I can't think of 1 thing I would want a 7' piece of cord for. Too long for rap backups, and too short for most everything else.
The answer is: it depends on what your using it for.
Cheers,
Jim
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dirtineye
Jun 19, 2006, 2:21 AM
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OMFG, people really use the EDK to join their prussik loops?
That's retarded.
It is also retarded to ask the original question, when all you have to do is get a little extra, tie some loops, try em out, and adjust em til you like what you have.
IF you are going to ascend with em, it is good to have one longer than the other-- but you can always adjust em as you need to, depending on what you are doing.
Standard Prussik stuff:
Beware the three wrap prussik, use 4 wraps.
make sure your prussik cord is not too fat for the rope you are using it on. Screw the percentages, 3mm less than the rope diam is good enough.
YOU don't want to rely on 3mm accessory cord though, but since that might mean you were climbing on a 6 mm line, I don't think it will be a problem.
5 mm works great on 8mm rope, and it works on the bigger ropes too.
Guess what size I use?
And if you are going to prussik your way into the Prussik Hall of Fame, figure out what an alpine clutch is, and how to use it. Your prussiking life will be much easier.
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anykineclimb
Jun 19, 2006, 4:54 AM
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Klemheist with a runner.
done.
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curtis_g
Jun 19, 2006, 5:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: cut yourself a 7' cord length per prussik, tie in loop w/double fishermans good to go. I looked for this answer before when I was making my firsts and wish someone would just spit out a fricken number. SEVEN FOOT LENGTH OF CORD Just cause you come across like you think 7' is the answer.....your wrong. :twisted: I can't think of 1 thing I would want a 7' piece of cord for. Too long for rap backups, and too short for most everything else. The answer is: it depends on what your using it for. Cheers, Jim
no, actually, I'm right. I use 7' length for my prussiks. That's the question he asked. It was a simple and very generic question. 7' is my answer. That's what I do with dub fishermans and it turns out nicely.
But I do agree with anykineclimb and prefer the Klemheist.
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dandruff1138
Jun 20, 2006, 2:02 AM
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DelRio you just taught me something new. I will try this out this weekend. I am just concerned about the friction melting. haha thanks man I like the simplicity and I trust runners more then a 8 mm cord.
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majid_sabet
Jun 20, 2006, 6:02 AM
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In reply to: DelRio you just taught me something new. I will try this out this weekend. I am just concerned about the friction melting. haha thanks man I like the simplicity and I trust runners more then a 8 mm cord.
You have not seen the difference between 8mm cord and runner in real action.
Runner is not intend to be used as prusik, you may kill yourself.
my 2 cents
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climbinginchico
Jun 20, 2006, 6:43 AM
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In reply to: Klemheist with a runner. done.
bingo! 8^)
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anykineclimb
Jun 20, 2006, 8:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: DelRio you just taught me something new. I will try this out this weekend. I am just concerned about the friction melting. haha thanks man I like the simplicity and I trust runners more then a 8 mm cord. You have not seen the difference between 8mm cord and runner in real action. Runner is not intend to be used as prusik, you may kill yourself. my 2 cents
your two cents are useless, you have NO IDEA what you are talking about.
Runners are perfectly fine for prussiking (the act of using some sort of knot/ hitch to ascend a rope)
If they are oh so dangerous what about the Bachman? Klemheist? autoblock? They've all been used FOR YEARS.
The only time I would use an actual prussik is in a rescue situation where the friction hitch may be unattended. Oh and I sure as Hell aren't going to use 8mm cord. thats a bit large. the prussik cord should be NO MORE than 50% diameter of the rope you're wrapping it on.
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dirtineye
Jun 20, 2006, 12:16 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: DelRio you just taught me something new. I will try this out this weekend. I am just concerned about the friction melting. haha thanks man I like the simplicity and I trust runners more then a 8 mm cord. You have not seen the difference between 8mm cord and runner in real action. Runner is not intend to be used as prusik, you may kill yourself. my 2 cents your two cents are useless, you have NO IDEA what you are talking about. Runners are perfectly fine for prussiking (the act of using some sort of knot/ hitch to ascend a rope) If they are oh so dangerous what about the Bachman? Klemheist? autoblock? They've all been used FOR YEARS. The only time I would use an actual prussik is in a rescue situation where the friction hitch may be unattended. Oh and I sure as Hell aren't going to use 8mm cord. thats a bit large. the prussik cord should be NO MORE than 50% diameter of the rope you're wrapping it on.
Some mod-nazi, please get rid of this post.
IT is confusing to the uninitiated, and rather uninformed.
Plus, What Major Sorbet says is absolutely correct about the PRUSSIK KNOT we all know and love not being meant for use in runners. The common Prussik is meant for cord.
The auto block is sometimes called a french prussik, but I personally would never use this knot for ascending, as it can be easily disturbed to the point of holding nothing, when unweighted and especially before setting.
THe normal use ofthe kleimheist is for static purposes, as in setting up a controlled release intermediate anchor in a belay escape or knot passing scenario, but you can ascend with it, although I think the prussik is much easier.
NOTE that the Prussik will load from either direction and not fail, this is not true of the auto block or kleimheist.
Standard Prussik knot stuff: use a 4 wrap prussik, not a three wrap. The rule of thumb is, 3mm less than the rope you put the prussik on. as in, 8mm for 11 mm, 7mm for ten mm 6 mm for 9 mm, and 5mm for 8 mm.
BTW, 5 mm works just fine on 11 mm and 10.5 mm rope. My three prussik loops are 5 mm, and live on my harness all the time, along with an alpine clutch.
You can carp about % of diam all you want, but most people can't calculate % easily, but they can see a difference of 3 pretty well.
This prussik nonsense come up evey few months. Isn't it time for a decent FAQ, that deals with all the idiotic repetition and bad advice?
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anykineclimb
Jun 20, 2006, 12:37 PM
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I'll totally agree with you that runners cannot be used for a prussik knot.
Dandruff was telling Delrio how he liked the knot he provided a link to (which uses a runner) There was NEVER any mention of using a runner as a PRUSSIK KNOT. The problem is the double use of the word Prussik; I took him to mean the verb, not the noun. Sort of like Jumar.
BTW, I too use 5mm for my prussiks
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sonus
Jun 20, 2006, 2:31 PM
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In reply to: BTW, 5 mm works just fine on 11 mm and 10.5 mm rope. My three prussik loops are 5 mm, and live on my harness all the time, along with an alpine clutch.
How do you keep an alpine clutch on your harness? Just a pair of ovals?
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majid_sabet
Jun 20, 2006, 8:17 PM
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In reply to: I'll totally agree with you that runners cannot be used for a prussik knot. Dandruff was telling Delrio how he liked the knot he provided a link to (which uses a runner) There was NEVER any mention of using a runner as a PRUSSIK KNOT. The problem is the double use of the word Prussik; I took him to mean the verb, not the noun. Sort of like Jumar. BTW, I too use 5mm for my prussiks
so you are saying 50% or less, now what size prusik do you use for rescue
4 mm prusik on a 11 mm rope or 5 mm prusik on a 11 mm rope ?
Why do not use just 3mm cord , its even lighter.
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majid_sabet
Jun 20, 2006, 8:21 PM
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