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huktoncrack
Jun 19, 2006, 12:40 PM
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Registered: Jun 6, 2005
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I am going to be in the area at the end of June and was looking to climb. Unfortunately for me, I am only leading up to 5.9's. Is there enough routes 5.9 and below to make it worth the trip or should I spend my early mornings and late afternoons at Owens River Gorge? From where I am going to be, it's a little longer trip to Owens River Gorge. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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olderic
Jun 19, 2006, 1:18 PM
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There is probably enough <5.9 to occupy you for a day or two. After that head to Donner Summit or the Leap for more
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quarrybabe
Jun 19, 2006, 5:43 PM
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I am huktoncrack's climbing partner. Thanks for the response. I was wondering where the leap is located and if donner's summit is relatively close to Big Chief?
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phylp
Jun 19, 2006, 6:15 PM
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Where are you going to be located?
The suggestion was made that you go to Donner Summit or Lovers Leap if you climb everything you can at your grade at Big Chief, but that answer kind of assumes you lead trad at that level as well as sport. Big Chief is almost all sport climbing but neither Donner summit nor the Leap have sport routes at or below the 5.9 grade that I can recall offhand.
Big Chief parking area is about 20 minutes from the town of Truckee.
Donner summit area is about 15 minutes from Truckee.
Lover's Leap is completely at the other end of the Lake south from Truckee and then back west on route 50. More than an hour drive.
The ORG is about 200 miles from Truckee! Quite a ways to go if you are based around Tahoe.
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huktoncrack
Jun 20, 2006, 4:34 AM
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I am actually going to be staying in the San Jose area. ORG is a longer drive than I originally thought from there too. I have yet to begin leading trad so that pretty much limits me to Big Chief. We are not going to be there for more than a day or two so if there is enough to occupy us for that I'm happy. I've never been west of Wyoming so this will all be new and exciting to me. Thanks for the input.
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scuclimber
Jun 20, 2006, 6:46 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2003
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Dude, with this high pressure system in the area it's going to be so damn hot at Owens. I would go to Big Chief and stick with the elevation. Or pick up a guide book for the Tahoe area and find one of the lesser known areas that are even higher up than Big Chief.
Colin
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climbingnorcal
Jun 21, 2006, 10:55 PM
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I was at Big Chief two weeks ago and Donner this past weekend. Big Chief had a few routes that were 5.9 and lower. If you can only lead 5.9 there is not too much there and you will probably have to wait in line unless you get there early. If you can get up to 10a there is a bunch more to do. Donner had a few 5.8 and 5.9 sport climbs in the Grouse Slabs area and Green Phantom has some good toprope. The routes at Donner tend to be more run out than Big Chief.
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