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jmeizis
Jul 6, 2006, 3:47 PM
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What is the closest camping to Barn Bluff? The closest I saw was Frontenac and according to mapquest it's a half-hours drive from Barn Bluff. I don't really want to get a hotel because of the expense and I just like to camp. Let me know if there are any suggestions.
Jeremiah
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flipnfall
Jul 6, 2006, 4:40 PM
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I used to park at the bottom of the hill next to it and climb up to the base of the cliff and camp there. You should be able to do that without a problem. If you camp out of your car, expect the police to check up on you once in a while, but they won't chase you out of there--they're just looking for minors making out.
I used to camp out there every night, climb at sun rise then speed like hell to work.
GT
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jmeizis
Jul 6, 2006, 5:32 PM
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Hmm....my car is a little small for two people to sleep in. Think they'd mind if I pitched a tent next to my car and slept in there? I take it camping is a "no no" inside the actual park.
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flipnfall
Jul 6, 2006, 5:37 PM
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It's not really a "park" in the sense that most people think. There are no facilities, just a path to the sandstone cliffs. About the only thing you're going to want to watch out for is if it has rained recently. The rock is wet for a few days after a rain which makes the wet chalk on the holds all slimy.
You should be able to just camp out right next to the cliffs. You may want to ask around since it's been about 4 years for me (I'm now in FL).*
*Soon to be in SD
GT
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jmeizis
Jul 6, 2006, 6:10 PM
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Well it looks like there may be some sprinkles. Hopefully with the heat it won't be so bad. I e-mailed the local climbing club and I guess I'll see what they say. Thanks for the good info.
Jeremiah
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drrock
Jul 6, 2006, 6:42 PM
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Hey. There is a campground right across the river on the Wisconsin side. There is a bar that serves excellent burgers also at the campground. I don't know the name of the campground or the bar, but I've gone there a couple times when we got rained out. Go over the bridge towards Wisconsin, and basically right over the bridge, take the first left. It curves down and loops back and the bar is on the left. You can ask there about camping. If that is full or whatever, there are a couple other options. Hay Creek is about 10 minutes away. Frontenac is close also. The Island one looks like it would be very close but I don't know anything about it. Check this site:
http://www.redwing.org/camp.html
I have been going to the bluff regularly for 3-4 years and have never seen anyone camping at the base. You should call the city and ask if that is cool before doing it. Think Access and not pissing the city off. They are super cool letting us climb there, bolt it, make trails, etc. so let's keep it that way. If they tell you it's okay to camp there, post back here to let us know.
By the way, it's limestone, not sandstone as mentioned above. There is a thin layer of sandstone above the limestone layer where the climbing it. The sandstone is total choss. After a rain, the rock does stay wet and slimy for a bit, but on the sunny side it dries out quick. However, the sunny side starts at 10a and goes to 14a or so (projects). So if you're looking for sub 5.10 climbs you will be climbing on damp rock. Also, skeeters and ticks have been a problem in the past but I was there on the 4th and there were few to be found. So hopefully it will stay that way this summer. Have fun.
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flipnfall
Jul 6, 2006, 6:47 PM
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In reply to: Think Access and not pissing the city off.
Good point!
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drrock
Jul 6, 2006, 7:05 PM
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Oh yeah, lots of poison ivy around also. So keep an eye out. From your profile pic it looks like you've been to Blue Mound, but if you want some recommendations for climbs at Red Wing let us know what range you're looking in. I can tell you what are my favorites and the classic/must-do's. It'll be a short list (haha- just kidding, there is a lot to climb there and some of it not well travelled). Make sure you bring the Farris guide. It has all but a couple of the newer bolted climbs in it.
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jmeizis
Jul 6, 2006, 7:58 PM
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So I talked to a gentleman at the Red Wing Tourist Center and here is what he said. He kind of laughed when I asked if camping was aloud there and said, "if you really want to". He also said that the cops don't go looking for people or chasing them out of the area (must have better things to do) :D He also gave me the numbers for Island Campground in WI and Hay Creek Forest in MN. Island Campground is only RV sites and Hay Creek Forest rings in at $30 a night :shock: ! Frontenac has cart in sites at $11 a night which isn't so bad but they aren't reservable and thus not guaranteed to be available. So now a show of hands. Who thinks I should quit being a pansy and drive the 15 or so minutes for 2 days from Frontenac at $11 a day? Who thinks I should keep a low profile at Barn Bluff and be nice and close to the climbing? If there aren't sites available at Frontenac should I go to Barn Bluff and keep a low profile? From the way the tourist desk gentleman talked it didn't sound like it'd be a big deal but others probably know more about the access better than myself.
Oh yeah I'd love some route recommendations. I've got the Farris guide and that profile pic is my first 5.8 at Blue mounds. The Farris guide kind of indicates that the hardware isn't exactly stellar but I thought they were replacing a lot of bolts and coldshuts. Depending on how good the hardware is I wouldn't mind some stuff 5.8 or harder, but if it's all rusty crap than I think I'll stick at 5.7 or below.
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drrock
Jul 6, 2006, 8:39 PM
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Excellent. So you should just camp at the bluff, I guess. Hay Creek looks like a dump from the highway and I can't believe they get $30 a night- although I have never seen the actual campground. Frontenac is a really nice park, but hey if you can camp right there why not? It's obvious that folks have campfires up there, so just look around for the best flat spot to pitch your tent. Don't leave anything valuable in your car (haven't heard of any break-ins but most people don't park there overnight and the parking area is a bit secluded). There is a Quik Trip you can take a dump at 3 blocks away (you will go right by it on the way into town on hwy 58). One of the nights you should go up to the top of the bluff (just keep walking on the trail past the last climbs) and watch the sunset. It's a really nice view of the lake also. If you're up for a burger at the bar on the river, my friend tells me it's called the Harbor Inn (see above).
Bring bug spray.
The bolts are now mostly replaced, at least on the routes that are done with any regularity. The anchors are mostly bolts and chains with leaver biners. You might find an occasional rusty open shut or closed shut. I always bring a couple extra biners with me and replace any leaver biners at the tops that look nasty or are sticky. So no, the bolts won't limit your climbing at all. Most of the climbs are almost overbolted (which is great for my pansy self). Here are my thoughts on some climbs in the sub 5.10 range:
1. Dealer's Choice is easy at 5.6 or so, with a nice direct start at 5.11b for you to try on TR when you finish.
2. Living Postmortems is near #1 and is 5.8, not great but you'll be in the area.
3. Sunburst is 5.7 and extremely popular, but I don't know why. It's okay.
4. The 3-4 climbs to the right of Sunburst (check your guide for the names and ratings) are in your range and okay also, but again very popular (read: busy and glassy/polished)
5. Goofed on Skunkweed is 5.8, and is pretty fun after you get to the top half. You can also trad this route, although it is tightly bolted.
6. Jenna's face is kind of fun at 5.8, but the first bolt is very high. Bring a stick clip. Otherwise you won't need one for the rest of the climbs.
7. Jenna's Chimney is 5.5 and not so great, right near #6 and #12.
9. Cinc Jour De Fille or whatever at 5.7 sucks, don't bother.
10. Looking for Lust is great at 5.9. However, with all the traffic the feet are very polished at the bottom.
11. Perfect Crimb is a very nice 5.9, highly recommend it.
12. BF Bugs is okay at 5.8 or 5.9.
13. Vertical Vice is a very nice 5.8.
14. Two Tone Zephyr is a very nice 5.9, very near to #13 and #5.
15. Jam and Jelly at 5.7 is okay if you trad at all, but I wouldn't bring trad gear just for this one.
If you get into the 10's, I would recommend Jump Start (10a), Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag (10a) (these are the 2 most popular 10a's), Pandemonium (10a), Needles and Pins (10a-- stellar climb), Left Lane (pumpy and slightly overhung 10a), Prairie Fire (stellar 10c), New Kids on the Rock (a decent 10d), Frequent Flatulance (one move wonder 10b) and Doctor Rock (10b).
If you find the ratings soft, Dead Dog Face at 11a is really fun and short, as is Foreign Affairs (not as short). Annadonia is a very popular 11b.
That should fill your weekend. Have a good one.
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jmeizis
Jul 6, 2006, 10:36 PM
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Yeah, I think if it's cool with my partner we'll just stay at Barn Bluff. Thanks for the route recommendations. Glad to hear that the hardware is good so I won't feel nervous taking a fall. I'll be sure to check out the sunset from the top though.
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