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tradrenn
Jul 7, 2006, 2:08 AM
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Deleted.
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cellardoor
Jul 21, 2006, 6:19 PM
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Renn, have you got any hits on this offer? Just curious.
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svilnit
Jul 21, 2006, 6:23 PM
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Wow, Renn, that is quite a generous offer! I hope that somebody takes you up on it. Maybe contacting some of the manufacturers and telling them about what you plan to do would get them to participate... just a thought.
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caughtinside
Jul 21, 2006, 6:44 PM
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Well, I have done a little field testing of my own. I am pleased to report that every time I've had a good placement and fallen on it, it has held.
Also of note, is that I have fallen on 2 cams that I wasn't thrilled with. Both were in flares.
And, at the risk of sounding like a black hearted elitist, everything about that accident report you posted screams inexperienced climber. I wouldn't question the gear after reading that one.
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reg
Jul 21, 2006, 7:53 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: ......documenting the breaking strength of four-cam units when only two cams on the same side are holding. ( Source Mark Nord ) .
whaaa..? am i missing something? do they mean same end? oh of course..
never mind
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sween345
Jul 21, 2006, 9:01 PM
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Do I have to keep jumping until the cam breaks in order to collect the $500?
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tradrenn
Jul 26, 2006, 12:03 AM
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Deleted.
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caughtinside
Jul 26, 2006, 12:08 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: And, at the risk of sounding like a black hearted elitist, everything about that accident report you posted screams inexperienced climber. I wouldn't question the gear after reading that one. The climber was 53 years old and he was not a n00b, he had cams made of die casted aluminium, there was a thread about it on RC.com
5.4+?
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tgreene
Jul 26, 2006, 12:35 AM
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Post removed, because I just read the thead linked below, and my comments were way out of line, and for that I'm truly sorry.
-Tim
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ne_dan
Jul 26, 2006, 1:48 AM
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You are all a bunch of assholes. So what if the climb he fell was only a 5.4, thats why they are called accidents. The climber in question actually passed away from his injuries that resulted from the fall.
And for anyone who is interested here is the details of what happened http://www.rockclimbing.com/post/985277
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gunkiemike
Jul 26, 2006, 2:03 AM
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In reply to: Isn't the crux of a 5.4, the place where you have to use your hands for balance..? Sheesh, the access scramble at our local crag is rated 5.5 in the RDB, and we climb it in tennis shoes w/ full packs at the end of an exhausting day. I will say that the first guy up will often extend a hand to the others, to assist w/ the top-out. :oops:
I'd LOVE to see you try that on the route in question. It's a nasty offwidth, rather unique in the grade, and very awkward.
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steelhands
Jul 26, 2006, 2:23 AM
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In reply to: Isn't the crux of a 5.4, the place where you have to use your hands for balance..? Sheesh, the access scramble at our local crag is rated 5.5 in the RDB, and we climb it in tennis shoes w/ full packs at the end of an exhausting day. I will say that the first guy up will often extend a hand to the others, to assist w/ the top-out. :oops:
Ok, it was only me, the old man who had get a hand at top out on Exodus! And you know, I trad lead that thing at least twice! That's about my speed don't you think Tim? Can't find a place for gear, just free solo to the top.
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tgreene
Jul 26, 2006, 2:37 AM
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Actually Sam, I never knew you ever plugged that thing... Also, the hand-out at the top is pretty normal for everyone, myself included. ;)
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socialclimber
Jul 26, 2006, 5:02 PM
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In reply to: You are all a bunch of assholes. So what if the climb he fell was only a 5.4, thats why they are called accidents. The climber in question actually passed away from his injuries that resulted from the fall. And for anyone who is interested here is the details of what happened http://www.rockclimbing.com/post/985277
In this forum we all play nice with each other. We don't troll, we don't flame and we don't swear. Be civil or stay out of the sand pit.
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catbird_seat
Aug 15, 2006, 8:53 PM
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To my knowledge there aren't any standardized test methods for holding power of cams in real rock. Correct me if I'm wrong.
If I were designing a method the aim of which is to compare holding power of two lobes versus four, I would try to use exactly the same rock and the same crack. The idea is that the only variable that is different is the number of lobes. This way, even if the absolute pull out load might not be representative of manufacturer's rating, the RELATIVE holding power could be considered meaningful.
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