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COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot.
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socialclimber


Jul 6, 2006, 7:44 PM
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COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot.
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top30.es, a Spanish commercial/sport climbing site is crucial of the European Sport climbing Competition in the wake of the debacle that was the Ekaterinburg round.


ter_bee


Jul 6, 2006, 7:47 PM
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Re: COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot. [In reply to]
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top30.es, a Spanish commercial/sport climbing site is crucial of the European Sport climbing Competition in the wake of the debacle that was the Ekaterinburg round.

i'm afraid to click that link. what does it mean to be 'crucial of' something?


billl7


Jul 6, 2006, 7:59 PM
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Re: COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot. [In reply to]
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i'm afraid to click that link. what does it mean to be 'crucial of' something?
The link is to a short write up about some European climbing competition (am probably displaying some ignorance here). It is in english but a little choppy.

Something about supposed lack of equipment leading to event cancellation (wink, wink), inconsistent scoring, non-ranked and unknown local climbers dominating, etc.. Reportedly, Spain does a better job at organizing such competitions.

That's my take anyway.

Bill L.


styndall


Jul 6, 2006, 8:09 PM
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Re: COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
top30.es, a Spanish commercial/sport climbing site is crucial of the European Sport climbing Competition in the wake of the debacle that was the Ekaterinburg round.

i'm afraid to click that link. what does it mean to be 'crucial of' something?

I'm pretty sure he means 'critical.'


overlord


Jul 7, 2006, 4:10 AM
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Re: COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
i'm afraid to click that link. what does it mean to be 'crucial of' something?
The link is to a short write up about some European climbing competition (am probably displaying some ignorance here). It is in english but a little choppy.

Something about supposed lack of equipment leading to event cancellation (wink, wink), inconsistent scoring, non-ranked and unknown local climbers dominating, etc.. Reportedly, Spain does a better job at organizing such competitions.

That's my take anyway.

Bill L.

thats correct.

it happened in the european championship in Ekaterinburg, russia. while the difficulty (lead) comp was 'kindof' ok (well, according to one slovenian climber, every village has a better wall and the crowds really sucked (read: "there werent any")), they didnt have any crashpads for the bouldering comp, which was offcourse cancelled and the 'open' bouldering comp that was supposed to be in its stead (i dont know if they had the mats then) was pretty much boycotted by the competitors.

anyway, it was a disaster, to say the least. and keep in mind that this wasnt an european (or world) cup event (theses are about every 14 days), this was the european championship, which is once a year. i dont know what they will do now, but i guess that we wont have an european champion for 2006.


tradmanclimbs


Jul 7, 2006, 5:23 AM
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Re: COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot. [In reply to]
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ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ Comp climbing is stuuupid anyway :roll: who cares???


billl7


Jul 7, 2006, 6:37 AM
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I watched some bouldering (national) and lead comp (regional) over this last year. Both in gyms.

The last one I attended (lead comp) impressed me with how climbing on very little can be made to look so easy. They've learned to eek out as much as they can on tiny and/or awkward holds but also, importantly, to not expend any more energy than necessary along the way: a perfect balances between the 2 sees them up.

But at this level of competition the balancing point is very unstable. One mistake and the effort required to stay on builds exponentially in time. The "pop" occurs when the balance is upset.

'Course, I don't climb at that level and so these are just impressions. Cool. Way to go guys and gals.

Bill L.


socialclimber


Jul 7, 2006, 9:51 AM
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Re: COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot. [In reply to]
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i'm afraid to click that link. what does it mean to be 'crucial of' something?

Sorry for the typo, it was meant to be critical


socialclimber


Jul 7, 2006, 9:59 AM
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i'm afraid to click that link. what does it mean to be 'crucial of' something?

Sorry for the typo, it was meant to be critical


flipnfall


Jul 7, 2006, 10:27 AM
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Re: COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot. [In reply to]
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ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ Comp climbing is stuuupid anyway :roll: who cares???

Hmmmm. TradMan it appears your bias is "on your sleeves," as it were. :wink:

I love comps becuase they push me to try harder and to learn from other climbers who are better. I've had nothing but good come from them (gear, personal improvement, new friends, etc.). However, I understand that indoor climbing can be a bore compaired to the majestic outdoors.

But a lot of us do care! Personally, if you gave me the choice between climbing a trade route at Devil's Tower or Eldo and a comp, I'd choose the trad. Some people would choose the comp.

To each his own!

GT


sidepull


Jul 7, 2006, 11:41 AM
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Re: COMMENT: Sport climbing shoots itself in the foot. [In reply to]
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this is kind of old news, even climbing, the magazine that has yet to report on the Dean Potter debacle (what? huh? climb delicate arch where?) has a little tidbit on this and 8a.nu had reported it as well.


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