|
climbingeek
Jul 12, 2006, 4:46 AM
Post #1 of 2
(1265 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 11, 2005
Posts: 54
|
Lead climbers beware: "Menage a Trois," the classic 10b, and "Miccis" both sport compression bolts for all lead protection. According to tests done by Duane Raleigh (published in Climbing Magazine, Oct. 1992), this type of bolt has functionally no strength in 2000psi rock (rock which is TWICE as hard as Poterro John's sandstone). Similar bolts on Gibraltar rock, in Santa Barbara, pulled with only moderate force.
LEAD AT YOUR OWN RISK.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingeek
Oct 18, 2006, 3:53 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1265 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 11, 2005
Posts: 54
|
Someone has generously replaced all of the lead bolts on "Miccis" & "Menage a Trois" with 3/8" Rawl-style expansion bolts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
