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climbinginchico
Jul 12, 2006, 8:53 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Mar 23, 2004
Posts: 3027
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Hi all,
I was wondering if anyone has beta on which pitches I can link with a 70m rope on Fairview's Regular Route. I've gotten good beta on what I can do with a 60, but I'm wondering if the extra 10m on my stinger will come in handy.
Thanks!
Chris
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forkliftdaddy
Jul 12, 2006, 9:09 AM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
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I think that you could link pitch 1 with all of pitch 2. Beyond that, I don't think it will gain you anything. On the wandering, lower angle, upper pitches it may actually mean more hassle.
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boltdude
Jul 12, 2006, 10:32 AM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 685
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A 70m rope is killer for linking RR into 5 pitches (plus 4th/easy 5th at top).
1 & 2 to the big ledge on right.
pitch 3 - go to the higher ledge (just over a 60m rope).
pitch 4 & 5 - link by doing the traverse right to the U-bowl not placing pro (not that there's much to place anyway), then by not placing any pro on the first long section of the ramp until just before it gets steep. Use very long slings (I clip 2 or 3 shoulder-length) on the first pro. Be solid using this link beta since that ramp can be slick and sandy and by then you're WAY out from the last pro. I go left there (Hollow Flakes variation) since I always did this with a 65m and it didn't reach up the 5.6 dihedral, but you can go up the normal dihedral with a 70m - either way you end at the big ledge.
pitch 6 & 7 - easy to link to the upper ledge just before the traverse.
pitch 8 - the traverse - ends at the big tree, where it's typically unroping or simulclimbing ground (one 30' slab section often roped). If pitching it out past the end of the traverse, many options for where to go and where to belay, and easy to pass people. Watch the rope drag/rope catching in notches for the section past the tree at the end of the traverse.
I've done this at least 5 times with a 65m rope, a 70m will easily reach.
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