|
pilgram
Jul 17, 2006, 8:46 AM
Post #1 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2004
Posts: 35
|
So I was reading an article on onsighting featured in a recent climbing publication.
An interesting fact was mentioned in this article.
The author states that you should be projecting/redpoint routes 2 grades harder than your onsight.
So when I sport climb I onsight 11b. Does this mean I should really be Redpointing 13's???
|
|
|
|
|
rjtrials
Jul 17, 2006, 1:17 PM
Post #2 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2002
Posts: 342
|
I always thought the project grades should be one number higher instead of just two letters ?
RJ
|
|
|
|
|
pilgram
Jul 17, 2006, 7:59 PM
Post #3 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2004
Posts: 35
|
veganclimber Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 12:52 am Post subject: Re: I should climb what?!
I'm pretty sure it means you should be redpointing 11d.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well I currently redpoint 12c.
|
|
|
|
|
crazygirl
Jul 17, 2006, 8:21 PM
Post #4 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
|
it actually does sound like a big difference between the onsight of 11b and redpoint 12c.
|
|
|
|
|
devils_advocate
Jul 17, 2006, 9:22 PM
Post #5 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1823
|
I usually spray 7 number grades higher than I onsight
Here's a napkin to clean that up with...
|
|
|
|
|
pilgram
Jul 18, 2006, 3:49 AM
Post #6 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2004
Posts: 35
|
Your a funny guy!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/post/viewtopic.php?t=116267&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
Now shut the fuck up.
|
|
|
|
|
sick_climba
Jul 18, 2006, 3:55 AM
Post #7 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 508
|
In reply to: So I was reading an article on onsighting featured in a recent climbing publication. An interesting fact was mentioned in this article. The author states that you should be projecting/redpoint routes 2 grades harder than your onsight. So when I sport climb I onsight 11b. Does this mean I should really be Redpointing 13's??? |
|
|
|
|
crimper16
Jul 18, 2006, 5:44 AM
Post #8 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2006
Posts: 30
|
jeez pilgram...take a chill pill
|
|
|
|
|
devils_advocate
Jul 18, 2006, 4:23 PM
Post #9 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1823
|
In reply to: jeez pilgram...take a chill pill
Bah... let him try, if that's the best he can do at shit talking I'll enjoy ripping him a new one.
I fully realized when I made that thread he quoted that it would go over most peoples heads and that further down the line it would be thrown back in my face by said people; even though the responses in it illustrate the joke quite clearly. I can't help that he's a dim-witted moron - we knew they would learn to type and access the internet sooner or later. Now we must co-exist.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jul 18, 2006, 5:41 PM
Post #10 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Please find a way to coexist without turning every other thread into a knock-down, drag-out forum throwdown. :wink:
Pilgrim, when you get into numbers of .10 and up, there's theoretically as much difference between letters as there is between numbers, .9 and down. Another reason why the Oz system beats YDS hands down, IMO.
|
|
|
|
|
devils_advocate
Jul 18, 2006, 5:58 PM
Post #11 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1823
|
In reply to: Please find a way to coexist without turning every other thread into a knock-down, drag-out forum throwdown. :wink:
Alright, I'll halt construction of the steel cage arena and behave. I was so looking forward to jumping off the top turnbuckle Superfly Snuka style.
|
|
|
|
|
neuroshock
Jul 18, 2006, 5:58 PM
Post #12 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 680
|
In reply to: In reply to: I'm pretty sure it means you should be redpointing 11d. Well I currently redpoint 12c.
if you're redpointing 12c's consistently and only onsighting 11b, sounds like you've work to do on your routefinding/sequencing/strategy/technique as you should probably be able to onsight a good deal harder than 11b.
now if you've only redpointed one 12c, maybe not quite as much.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jul 18, 2006, 6:02 PM
Post #13 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: In reply to: Please find a way to coexist without turning every other thread into a knock-down, drag-out forum throwdown. :wink: Alright, I'll halt construction of the steel cage arena and behave. I was so looking forward to jumping off the top turnbuckle Superfly Snuka style.
Blast from the past! Jimmy Snuka lives. :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
jred
Jul 18, 2006, 6:18 PM
Post #14 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2003
Posts: 750
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Please find a way to coexist without turning every other thread into a knock-down, drag-out forum throwdown. :wink: Alright, I'll halt construction of the steel cage arena and behave. I was so looking forward to jumping off the top turnbuckle Superfly Snuka style. Blast from the past! Jimmy Snuka lives. :lol:
If you are able to redpoint 5.12c consistantly then 5.12a should be a reasonable on-sight grade. 5.11b onsight tells us that you must work routes into submission if you really do redpoint 12c.
Pilgram, how many attempts does it take you to redpoint 12c?
|
|
|
|
|
devils_advocate
Jul 18, 2006, 6:31 PM
Post #15 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1823
|
In reply to: If you are able to redpoint 5.12c consistantly then 5.12a should be a reasonable on-sight grade. 5.11b onsight tells us that you must work routes into submission if you really do redpoint 12c.
Way to stick with the wrestling jargon and pull the thread drift into the OP discussion... cross-topic references, that's what I like to see. Take some notes here people, it's time to step up the post quality. Puns, double entendre, alliteration; we'll show those bastards at 8a.n00b
|
|
|
|
|
pilgram
Jul 19, 2006, 2:23 AM
Post #16 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2004
Posts: 35
|
Ill be honest..I have to work pretty hard to nail 12c. This is the reason of only bagged 2 or 3. And to go one step further, they are red rocks sport routes. I've heard these can be soft. Unfortunatly ive only trad climbed in other areas, so I have nothing to compare it too.
All I did was ask a question, and I have heard answers...but ive also heard way too many opinions.
|
|
|
|
|
sick_climba
Jul 19, 2006, 3:17 AM
Post #17 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 508
|
In reply to: Ill be honest..I have to work pretty hard to nail 12c. This is the reason of only bagged 2 or 3. And to go one step further, they are red rocks sport routes. I've heard these can be soft. Unfortunatly ive only trad climbed in other areas, so I have nothing to compare it too. All I did was ask a question, and I have heard answers...but ive also heard way too many opinions.
Which reminds me you didn't just ask a question you totaly sprayed by saying " but I red point 12c". That article referes to consistant redpoint. I have sent 3 different v.8s and onsighted one but that doesn't mean I flash v.8, considerably lower in fact try v.4/v.5. Just because you have redpointed a few 12's does not mean you can redpoint 12c. it means you tried hard as hell, or got lucky.
|
|
|
|
|
pilgram
Jul 19, 2006, 3:20 AM
Post #18 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2004
Posts: 35
|
I diddn't say I onsight this 12. I said I redpoint.
|
|
|
|
|
lizard0fthetrail
Jul 19, 2006, 6:09 AM
Post #19 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2004
Posts: 133
|
I climb for the money, that's IT.
|
|
|
|
|
devils_advocate
Jul 19, 2006, 4:23 PM
Post #20 of 20
(4148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1823
|
In reply to: Ill be honest..I have to work pretty hard to nail 12c. This is the reason of only bagged 2 or 3. And to go one step further, they are red rocks sport routes. I've heard these can be soft. Unfortunatly ive only trad climbed in other areas, so I have nothing to compare it too. All I did was ask a question, and I have heard answers...but ive also heard way too many opinions.
See now, if you would have just posted something more along these lines at the begining you probably wouldn't have heard near as much BS. There's nothing wrong with working hard to get up a 12c - Ironically enough that was about the gist of my post you tried to make fun of - and in my opinion there's nothing wrong with busting your ass to figure out a 10b if that's your level. Most could care less what number you climb, but if you start spraying about it, or implying that you're superior to someone else because you climb higher numbers then get ready for a lot of flaming and drift and just about anything except the answer you were looking for.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
