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millersqu
Sep 1, 2002, 8:56 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2002
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Does anybody know about the reliability of using a double-bowline for tying in? Some of my friends say it is just as reliable as the figure-eight follow through, just easier to untie.
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mobius
Sep 1, 2002, 10:01 PM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2002
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Its throretically not as strong a knot as the retraced figure 8, but it works just fine.
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djnibs
Sep 1, 2002, 10:49 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
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Its not as strong, but works the same. it is easier to untie, but its twice as hard to check if its done up properly. if your good with 8's i would stick with it, unless you want a change?
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thoxsie
Sep 2, 2002, 12:03 AM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2001
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Here check out this link http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Bowline.htm
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krustyklimber
Sep 2, 2002, 12:19 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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Once well trained in tying the bowline it is a very good not to use.
I only and always tie in with a bowline.
But like others have said, until you are fully proficient at it, stick to the Figure of 8 knot.
Jeff
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fishypete
Sep 2, 2002, 8:15 AM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2002
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This has been discussed:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=13616&forum=40&start=30
Bottom line:
Both knots are acceptable for this job.
They ahve similar strengths (as stated in the "Knots for Climbers" book).
The double bowline with yosemite finish unties more easily after being weighted.
And the bottom of the bottom line:
Use whichever you are comfortable with!!
Once you have learn't the knot properly, and know how to visually check it accurately, you are ready to go.
Cheers
Fishy.
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carabiner86
Sep 15, 2002, 3:26 AM
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Registered: Sep 5, 2002
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I've mainly used the bowlines before.. that's how I was taught to use. Figure 8s to me seem more secure, but I guess since bowlines are how I started out I feel some sort of love towards them...
Just kidding..
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rushjunkie11
Oct 11, 2002, 2:27 AM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2002
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I always use a bowline. It's easier to untie after a fall and has caught me after a forty-five foot whipper on Whitesides, so i completly trust it.
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bighigaz
Oct 11, 2002, 3:13 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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I've heard that enough force on the bowline (single) will invert it and cause the knot to fail... but with a double, I've never heard of that... But as a precaution always double back the loose end through the bite... I'm totally confident that it is a bomber knot. It MUST be, or it wouldn't be a RESCUE knot. There is no room for error though, make sure you're 100% positive that it is tied correctly or it won't work. I played with it for a few weeks before starting to use it... and now I don't use anything else. Oh, and you should tie it as close to your harness as possible... Climb on!
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