Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: NC - TNF Looking Glass

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NC - TNF Looking Glass - Glass Menagerie

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dynamo_

Jul 21, 2006, 9:28 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
Posts: 275

NC - TNF Looking Glass - Glass Menagerie (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Western: Looking_Glass_Rock) Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

My partner and I are thinking of doing this route (among others) in October. Any of you NC tough guys and gals have info on the following:

Are the ledges/shelves at the top of pitches three and four large enough to bivy on? Is a portaledge required/mandatory?

We are planning on a bivy, but don't have portaledges and I would like to avoid spending the money at this juncture. Clearly, we'll bite the bullet if need be...we have a fever.

Also, how much do we need in the way of iron? Hooks, heads, etc.

Thanks in advance.

gonzo78793

Jul 29, 2006, 10:38 AM
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Registered: Dec 4, 2005
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Re: NC - TNF Looking Glass - Glass Menagerie [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Hey whats up? Well great route!! You will love it! We just did it in June, the three of us. We only went up to pitch 4, and the only way you can sleep is one either sleep on the large loose ledge atop pitch 1, or just hang in your harness. Pitch 2 has a little ledge but not enough room to sleep on, pitch 3 is a small lip that is at a left facing crack, on 4 is a small lip to stand on.
As far as gear goes bring a couple of hooks/ and cam hooks, we did not use cirlce heads, and a stick clip will save you alot of time. The travese on pitch to is a little tricky, after that it is straight foward. We took a ledge and hauled, made a 2 day'r out of it. Man it was a blast, we will be back and would love to go to the top. I am not sure but we were told the top out is mossy/lintchen? And it is hard to find pro, it goes around 5.7ish, but then again the travese is a 5.7? So check it out let me know? From pitch three you can make the ground in one rapp, it just makes it. I am pumped for you guys.
Also if you have time Safari Jive is great also (I.A) is great but you will need cirlce heads for the second pitch. Corn Flake Crack is cool, 2 pitch is pretty cool. But I would have to say plan your trip based off of Glass Mengerie. I hope this helps you out and let me know how it goes. Be safe and have a great time.

dynamo_

Aug 17, 2006, 8:27 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
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Re: NC - TNF Looking Glass - Glass Menagerie [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Thanks for the response...I must have missed it.

We are planning on two days...My partner has since fabricated a rather sweet, bomber homemade ledge dubbed the 'crapoledge'. I will either hang, buy a ledge, rig something like the redneck I am, or rap and ascend the next day.

Glad to hear it's such a good route. The guidebook and Flatliners indicate that the last pitch is dirty and hard to protect. We are doing the Original Route following GM, so we'd better be fine at 5.7 R/X.

We'll post upon completion. Thanks for the info.

gonzo78793

Aug 31, 2006, 5:44 AM
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Registered: Dec 4, 2005
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Re: NC - TNF Looking Glass - Glass Menagerie [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Have a blast and let me know how it goes!!
DO IT TO IT!

chris_sheridan

Aug 31, 2006, 7:34 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2005
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Re: NC - TNF Looking Glass - Glass Menagerie [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I've done this route twice and both were very memorable. The first time was my first big wall (well kinda big, at least by east coast standards). We got a late start due to a party ahead of us that was taking repeated falls and eventualy bailed. This ate up a lot of time, but we made it to the top of the roof pitch (5th pitch if I remember correctly). We rappeled down to the base with our two ropes tied together, about 250ft. We then went back to the car that night for dinner and hiked back in the next morning. The rapping down worked well, but camping at the base would have been prefered. The next day, we jugged up our fixed lines (which also ate up a lot of time) and finished the remaining 3 pitches.

The next time, I rope soloed the route car to car in about 15 hours or so. The route isn't as long as it looks in the topo as many of the pitches can be combined. (First with second, third with fourth)

Spending a night on a wall is fun, but if you don't have a ledge, you may want to just get your skills down, get fast and then blast it in a day. No crazy speed tactics or short fixing needed. Once you ditch the haul bag, you'll have all the speed advantage you need to do it in a day.