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Beginner in Cham'?
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uasunflower


Jul 25, 2006, 7:06 AM
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Beginner in Cham'?
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i have a friend who finally decided to trust me and try out this crazy thing called mountaineering (scrambling in New England is as close as he ever got to rockclimbing)...He lives in geneva so far and wanted to go up Mt Blanc :lol: I certainly won't take him there, but what would you suggest doing near Cham' - impressive enough, but not too engaged to start someone off?

Going up Aig. du Midi and exploring from there? I'm a bit scared of that ridge descent just after the benne...Montenvers? Any PD routes to suggest?..


olderic


Jul 25, 2006, 7:45 AM
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It's 35 years old but you won't go wrong if you can get a copy of Rebufett's "100 Finest Routes". Because of the changes in the snow and ice condtions and improvents in gear the ice routes he lists aren't that hard today - if they are even still doable. The rock routes progress in a nice order though.


Partner booger


Jul 25, 2006, 8:01 AM
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i have a friend who finally decided to trust me and try out this crazy thing called mountaineering

Oh-oh... :shock:

I can give him some advice:

-Take warm socks
-Take a very warm raincoat
-Take a very very warm sleeping-bag
-Take enough cordolette to tie: 1. a prussik, 2. a noose.

:lol:


Partner tisar


Jul 25, 2006, 8:07 AM
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i have a friend who finally decided to trust me

Do you really want to risk an alpine tour with someone who shows such an obvious lack of judgement? :lol:

- Daniel


Partner heiko


Jul 25, 2006, 8:11 AM
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In reply to:
i have a friend who finally decided to trust me

Do you really want to risk an alpine tour with someone who shows such an obvious lack of judgement? :lol:

- Daniel

You are not nice, Daniel. Shame on you. She's been on more alpine routes than I have frostbitten toes.


chrtur


Jul 25, 2006, 8:22 AM
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Well some background of what he/she has done could maybe help?

I just get the impression that he/she has never used something like crampons? Right or wrong? If it is the case you take a lot of responsible on you if start exploring things from Aig. du Midi according to me.

There are options that guides do with beginners people you can do, but still depends on his/her background.

Christian


uasunflower


Jul 25, 2006, 8:25 AM
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true, no crampon experience... :roll: but how did you get your first crampon experience ?! yeah, i guess descending aig. du midi ridge would still not be my best idea of getting it :roll:


chrtur


Jul 25, 2006, 8:41 AM
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I would say it really depends from person to person what you can do and what you feel comfortable with? Here I have some quick suggestions?

Mer de Glace is easy to reach with the train and then going down on the ladders. A way to see how the height works a little. Then walking around on the dry glacier part to get used a little to the stuff. The cracks and holes are quite obvious so it is more easy terrain but still possible to fall into something? This is the one of the classic training grounds for the guides there from what I know.

Another options I know is the glacier du Tour with similar options but a long approach walk and also the classic Aguille du Tour for scrambling options, something guides do with new people.

Or go to the other side of the border and go up Breithorn which can be a fine way to introduce one to the stuff? Here you also have the height as an extra thing depending on the conditions of the person?

What I depends on the person in the end I think.


uasunflower


Jul 27, 2006, 5:59 AM
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thx!


chrtur


Jul 27, 2006, 6:07 AM
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true, no crampon experience... :roll: but how did you get your first crampon experience ?! yeah, i guess descending aig. du midi ridge would still not be my best idea of getting it :roll:

Well, you got me thinking about this?

Thus either you feel comfortabel in what you know and can handle, thus even getting out of problems without having to depend on the new person.

Otherwise a second experienced person would be perfect. This is how I learned a lot but going away in three. Thus two more experienced persons can handle most situations. Usually slower, BUT, I think speed is maybe not what you should be thinking of directly.

- Christian


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