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westtexasrocker
Jul 23, 2006, 8:01 PM
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DOVE CREEK UPDATE:
My son and I went out to the "new" spot yesterday to build an access trail and clean up the area below the cliffs. To my surprise the are several small mesquite stumps that have been OBVIOUSLY cut down sometime ago. There is no appearant reason that these mesquites would be cut that were near the face of the climbing area in front of the cave than for climbing. I'm just wondering who was climbing here (and hording the info) years ago? Anyway, there is a great access trail cleared and with closer inspection of the cave and other faces, I believe this will quickly become a popular climbing spot for the Concho Valley area.
CAVE: you vertical guys are gonna love all the HUGE jugs and pockets in this place. You can spend all day playing in this place. 40' long and at least 12' deep, 4' off the ground. The landing is soft river bank silt. I did want a little feedback on one problem with this though....the area around the cave is always damp. What would you suggest to take care of this problem? I thought about bringing some carpet down there or how about spreading out some hey? Any suggestions?
Main Cliff/Boulder Faces: Excellent quality holds, finger pockets, and cracks, ledges. Some areas are very nice flat dirt landings, some are flat though have a few rocks nearby. Routes vary from the very easy VB+ to about V8. Some faces are not quite vert to laying back beyond vert. There are a couple spots that are just above the cave that are possible routes for a top rope anchor ( great practice spot for Noobs). the area is much larger than I originally anticipated. It looks more to be about 200' long and there is much more faces hidden behind some bushes that I haven't even began to scout yet. There is a great gallery rock along the creek bank in front of the main face and cave that's about 25' long and is like a natural bench seating.
DIRECTIONS:
FIRST thing to know is that even though you don't need a 4 wheel vehicle, the roads can get rough and rutted in places and you will DEFINITELY get your vehicle scratched by the mesquites that overgrow along the jeep roads. You can park many vehicles around the boat ramp and take one truck OR take your MT. Bike from here. Call me, PM, me, or email me prior and I'll take a group out there. You will never find it without a guide the first time out, which is great for us. The backcountry trip is about 5-6 miles from the boat ramp.
Take Knickerbocker Rd out passed Lake Nasworthy and the Municipal Airport. Take a right on the 2ND road that goes over the EQUALIZATION CHANNEL (sorry I don't know the name) Cross the bridge over the channel and then take a right down the access road that follows the EQ channel (heading north towards the main lake). When you come to the old boat ramp on the right you will see an obvious dirt road to the LEFT that follows the fence line. Take that fenceline rd. and follow about 1/2 mi. and you'll see a long rutted straightaway, continue on until you see the FIRST side trail to the RIGHT AFTER the STRAIGHTAWAY. Follow this part of the trail for about a mile until you come to the river bank. There will be an obvious clearing area here wherepeople camp sometimes and you should see the RED PAINTED arrows pointing towards the road that leads to the climbing area. From here you want to head south about 3-4 miles on trail. On the horizon you will see a few homes and some power lines. As long as you keep heading towards these homes, no matter if you make a "wrong" turn, ALL the roads will lead to a point where they all come back together right behind those same homes along the DOVE CREEK banks. Where the roads come together there will be a slight left turn up a small hill and then you pass through a cattle guard. The trail splits at this point. Stay right to find the trail access on top of the clif. Going left will take you to the same spot and to the main parking area/camping area. Look for a rock with DCB in RED PAINT to mark the Dove Creek Boulders and red arrows pointing out the trail head.
Give me a shout if you want a ride/guide into the area. Any help in developing the area would be helpful and appreciated. I'll be clearing another 40' long face section from weeds and debris tomorrow and there is a couple quality looking sections that mearly need a few large rocks around each to be relocated to make a better landing zone.
Thanks,
Rob - WestTexasRocker
San Angelo, TX.
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westtexasrocker
Jul 23, 2006, 8:12 PM
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ADDITIONAL ACCESS INFO:
This is ALL Public landand there is NO access issues, time of use restraints, etc. There is a GREAT clearing area above the rock for overnight camping which is FREE. There IS a current open fire/burn ban however, so bring lanterns for night time. BTW, the cave section would be perfect for some night bouldering sessions! I would suggest camping with a group though due to the remoteness I'd hate to be alone if some drunk ass rednecks came along that were out 4 wheeeling and stumble upon your camp at night. As for now this place is a very well kept secret and even all the locals I've shown this place had no idea of it's existence. Always be prepared in case of an emergency by carrying your own first aid supplies as finding the place for emergency crews would be a nightmare and take a very long time. If you climb with me , I am a paramedic and always bring medical supplies while out climbing. I hope to get some of the work that needs to be done this week and get some photos posted in the near future. Hope to see some of you out here soon.
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westtexasrocker
Jul 24, 2006, 12:34 AM
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Hey guys/gals
I hope this link works. I did a Google Earth satelitte image of the area. Looks cool so I hope so. You should be able to scan out to see the expanse of the area and remoteness That I spoke of. Notice the dark line just right of the trail loop above the climbing area. Thats the Cattle guard mentioned in the directions, and just right of that you can see the 3 trails that lead into 1 just before the cattle guard (as mentioned). All roads eventually come together.
Here's the imagery link:
http://www.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=twin+buttes+reservoir+san+angelo+texas&ie=UTF8&ll=31.331506,-100.573912&spn=0.00148,0.002414&t=k&om=0
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westtexasrocker
Jul 25, 2006, 12:37 PM
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Well, about 40' of new Cliff face was cleared yesterday and 3 locals and myself went back out to sample the spoils of our labor. The new digs are very fun and way more challenging than anticipated. some routes would actually rate V10+. One of the crew was a photographer and should be sending pics tome soon. All you Midland, Abilene, Lubbock, San Angelo, area peeps will be VERY stoked to see Dove Creek. I think the guys that I guided out there yesterday will attest to the fact that you will NEVER find this place without a local that knows the way in to guide ya and you'll need a truck or SUV of some sort because of the ruts.
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slopjop
Jul 25, 2006, 2:14 PM
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Ya. Uhhhh, there's no way you can find it by yourself. I'm questioning whether i'll actually be able to find it again. There's a spot on the road where you have to have a vehicle that can clear a pretty large drop off. I wouldn't even try taking a car. For a while there I thought Rob was going to take us that far out so he could rob us. Anyway, incredible find!
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dynorat
Jul 25, 2006, 2:18 PM
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Rob,
Thanks for posting up! Out here in the flats we need to band together!
A couple questions:
What kind of rock is it?
How many problems have you established?
What is are you doing this weekend?
Jason-Lubbock, TX
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8flood8
Jul 25, 2006, 2:31 PM
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i never thought anything would make me want to go home...
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westtexasrocker
Jul 25, 2006, 3:08 PM
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In reply to: Rob, Thanks for posting up! Out here in the flats we need to band together! A couple questions: What kind of rock is it? How many problems have you established? What is are you doing this weekend? Jason-Lubbock, TX
We have a small group of 3-4 guys climbing on Saturday and we are willing to take as many that can show up back into the rock. Bring camping gear and stay the weekend. There's uff to keep ya busy all week, trust me. Plus the Beaty Rd. Boulders are right down the street and is a great getaway from the heat since there is a waterfall and lake right next to them! We west Texas definitely need to band together. I have 3 more spots all ready to develope around town as well that are along the Concho River. I'm going to compile all the beta for the 4-5 spots I know of and build a myspace.com page under the title Concho Valley Climbers with topo satelitte images and still pics, directions, etc. just give me a few months to do it right though. Call me if your interested about this weekend. 325 212 3251.
Peace
Rob
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kachoong
Jul 25, 2006, 3:14 PM
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Sounds exciting and a lot of fun! Wish I could join you, but maybe later in the summer. Good luck developing your new found cliffs.
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westtexasrocker
Jul 25, 2006, 4:21 PM
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Hey guys I posted 5 great pics taken by a local climber, Clay, and posted them in the "routes" section. We are waiting for their "approval" before they are viewable. Those of you who contacted me about climbing this weekend, if ya want to see pics NOW I can email them to ya. Just PM me with the addy ya want'em sent too.
Rob
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8flood8
Jul 26, 2006, 6:02 AM
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Kachong i'll let you know next time i go home.
omg wouldn't it be cool to get some first ascents! hhehehe
i hope you guys do climb everything while i'm hehre hahahah!
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westtexasrocker
Jul 26, 2006, 1:14 PM
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In reply to: Kachong i'll let you know next time i go home. omg wouldn't it be cool to get some first ascents! hhehehe i hope you guys do climb everything while i'm hehre hahahah!
I would think you should get several FA's if ya make it home sometime this summer. I have to admit the hard routes probably won't be from me for quite awile. My knees are shot, I have 3 broken fingers that aren't quite mended yet, etc. etc. There a some peeps from Midland/Odessa and Lubbock already expressing interest in coming out really soon. Some maybe even this Saturday. We'll be climbing D.C. and Beaty. I do have a couple MORE places near downtown along the Concho River no work on next. You'll be surprised for sure!
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kachoong
Jul 26, 2006, 10:03 PM
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I'm definately up for a visit! If I get a free weekend, while on my Uvalde trips, I'll try and get up there. I'll keep ya posted Rob (and Carlos).
Dave
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westtexasrocker
Jul 27, 2006, 11:47 PM
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In reply to: I'm definately up for a visit! If I get a free weekend, while on my Uvalde trips, I'll try and get up there. I'll keep ya posted Rob (and Carlos). Dave
We'll be waitin' on ya. BTW, what's in Uvalde? Besides floating the Frio?
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coyoteblastin
Jul 28, 2006, 1:20 PM
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Odessa right here! I'd like to check it out but I am booked for the weekend. Maybe next weekend. Place looks pretty good from the pics.
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bdplayer
Jul 28, 2006, 1:40 PM
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Man... I spent almost half a year in school at San Angelo, and never knew there was any climbing there. Not that I'm planning a trip back just for that.
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kachoong
Jul 28, 2006, 1:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'm definately up for a visit! If I get a free weekend, while on my Uvalde trips, I'll try and get up there. I'll keep ya posted Rob (and Carlos). Dave We'll be waitin' on ya. BTW, what's in Uvalde? Besides floating the Frio? |
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westtexasrocker
Jul 28, 2006, 1:52 PM
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In reply to: Odessa right here! I'd like to check it out but I am booked for the weekend. Maybe next weekend. Place looks pretty good from the pics.
Next weekend I'm off work on Saturday and would be happy to guide another group into the rock. If it's any other day ya might try contacting SLOPJOP right here on this website. He's been out once already and he's supposed to come out tomorrow. He's the ONLY other person who's been to the Dove Creek area and still it can be VERY confusing getting to the place because there is so many different jeep roads out there and they ALL look the same since the mesquite is so overgrown. 6 mile trip in that takes 15 minutes from the paved road.
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westtexasrocker
Jul 29, 2006, 10:40 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I'm definately up for a visit! If I get a free weekend, while on my Uvalde trips, I'll try and get up there. I'll keep ya posted Rob (and Carlos). Dave We'll be waitin' on ya. BTW, what's in Uvalde? Besides floating the Frio? ....not much.... I'm basing myself here occationally through the summer for my research. I found a cliff up on the Frio too that looks like there could be a few lines on it. It's about 500 feet long and 100-150 feet high (limestone).
Umm are you talking about the wall at Garner State Park? Haven't been there myself but several people I know have done the annual S&R comp. they do there every year for fire and rescue teams. Our dept has won it many times in the past. We quit going cause people were gettin' pissed that our guys would party up every year and then go whoop their butts the next day. Sherriff got tired of comin' out all the time because of the "noise" problem..hee hee.
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kachoong
Jul 29, 2006, 5:56 PM
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In reply to: Umm are you talking about the wall at Garner State Park? |
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westtexasrocker
Jul 30, 2006, 1:51 PM
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Mmm, don't know. Sorry. Only seen pics and heard the stories about the rescue competition and parties in the campground. Never heard about anybody sport climbing it. However we did some more work and scouting out at Dove Creek yesterday and after poking around the trees and bushes downstream we found another 200' of excellent rock and bouldering areas. I would dare to say even much better quality than the original find. We start work on clearing it out tomorrow evening :D It's going to take quite a bit more time to clear than the main cliff area but it will definitely be worth the hard work. Stay tuned for pics hopefully in a week or so. Oh yeah....I almost forgot. I found a fun little bouldering spot in the downtown area under a bridge near the city rose garden park. Great for hot days or even rain days becuase it's completely covered and shady. Pics to follow soon as well as an addition to being added to the "routes" section soon. I call it "Taggle Rock" do to the "tags" painted under the bridge (none on the rock itself thankfully).
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westtexasrocker
Aug 1, 2006, 4:52 AM
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new terrain was opened up today. Chain saws were workin' hard on the mesquite and when the dust settled....25' of new rock was born that has never been set on by human eyes before. There is a rediculous amout of rock still hidden for now as well. The varied style of climbs still hidden will be a true gem for those of us stuck here in the bush lands of West Central Texas. The whole area should be cleared within the next week or so. More to come....
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westtexasrocker
Aug 2, 2006, 2:24 PM
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Cleared out 60 more feet of rock today...Thanks Clay! New spots look like alot of fun. About 15' of cutting left to be complete and then a little weedwackin' and we'll be done. Should have pics of the new stuff by the weekend. When/if anyone sees this place besides the few locals I've shown, it will sure to be a West Texas favorite very soon. All you Abilene, Midland, Odessa, Lubbock, folks need to make a trip down here soon!
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norm1057
Mar 7, 2007, 7:15 PM
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Are you still working on this area? I am heading out your way next month and am wanting to line stuff up for weekends or after my class. I'll be out for about 3 weeks. Any and all info would be great.
Norm
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rdbeerd
Mar 8, 2007, 8:15 PM
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We have several active areas in the San Angelo area, including Beaty Boulders...feel free to PM me for more detailed information
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