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dsm2415
Sep 2, 2002, 6:03 PM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2002
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Looking for someone who has climbed the East face of Mt. Whitney, and can give me some information on it. (i.e.rating, difficulty, how long it took, your exprience level etc...)
[ This Message was edited by: cass on 2002-09-03 15:39 ]
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fitz
Sep 3, 2002, 9:35 AM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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The East Face is nominally 5.6. However, do not understimate the effects of altitude. I would definately recommend camping one night at the Whitney Portal to aclimate.
Gearwise, I'd personally go light and mostly passive (nuts, hexes, and a few small tri-cams). Like many Sierra peaks, you'll find a lot of placesments from thin crack to about 1.5". But, bring enough gear so you feel comfortable.
As for how long, it depends on a lot of factors. You can get snow and ice on the approach much of the year. Also, a lot depends on how efficient you and your partner(s) are at turnovers.
I know that Peter Croft has a new guidebook (haven't gotten it yet) and SuperTopo just published a new Sierra guidebook as well. Both of those will probably have more detailed topo info than the fuzzy B&W photo with line that we had.
You might also post in the Alpine section.
Good Luck,
-jjf
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pbjosh
Sep 3, 2002, 9:52 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Unless you're fast, strong and acclimated camp at Iceberg Lake. I've done the East Buttress (very comparable) in 3 hours. I have friends who've done it in 1.5 hours but I also have friends who've been benighted.
If you're comfortable on <= 5.5 with the occaisonal slightly harder move you should consider simul-climbing either of those routes, breaking the 10 pitches into maybe 3-4.
I agree with a light rack although too light and you won't have enough to simul with if that's your preference. Personally I don't go too light with gear in the mountains as it doesn't slow me down. I usually carry a full set of cams, set of nuts, set of hexes and set of tricams and we can run 4 or more pitches together into one.
josh
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