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bozher


Aug 10, 2006, 6:03 PM
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pilot mountain  (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Central: Pilot_Mountain)
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I may be going to pilot mountain with friends this weekend. How tall are the climbs. Are there good trad leads there? Any info on the area would be greatly appreciated. I'm wondering if I should be excited to drive 2 hours to get to this local or if driving another half or hour is worth it.


toddr


Aug 11, 2006, 1:13 PM
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Re: pilot mountain [In reply to]
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Sent you a PM.
Todd


ubotch


Aug 11, 2006, 2:47 PM
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Re: pilot mountain [In reply to]
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Toddr,
Would you mind posting the info that you gave bozher in the PM. I have relatives out that direction and thought it looked like a cool place when I drove past it. I'm wondering if it is worth the time next time I am out that way. Thanks.


coloredchalker


Aug 11, 2006, 3:40 PM
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Re: pilot mountain [In reply to]
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Yo, if you want one pitch sport routes then Pilot is a great spot. I'm guessing that the climbs range from 30 feet to 80+. Not much in the way of trad climbs, there are a few routes that can go mixed but mostly top rope or sport. Depending on your grade thebest routes are (just to name two) Black rain and Devil in the white house (my fav.). For trad go hit up Moores wall, especially if you have more than one day in which you could do both areas. And if you have extra time go in to winston and stop at The Outdoor Provision company to get beta.

LEAVE YOUR DOG AT HOME :)!

Have fun.


ubotch


Aug 11, 2006, 5:18 PM
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Thanks.


toddr


Aug 12, 2006, 10:48 AM
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ubotch,
My PM is almost exactly what coloredchalker had to say. Mainly a toprope crag with a few moderate trad leads, some hard mixed routes and moderate to hard sport. Fun climbing with easy access and bolted top anchors. Moores Wall is the better trad crag.
Todd


glyrocks


Aug 12, 2006, 12:23 PM
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Re: pilot mountain [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I'm wondering if I should be excited to drive 2 hours to get to this...

No.

In reply to:
...or if driving another half or hour is worth it

Yes.


coloredchalker


Aug 13, 2006, 6:10 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I'm wondering if I should be excited to drive 2 hours to get to this...

No.

In reply to:
...or if driving another half or hour is worth it

Yes.

I agree with this, if your into trad or want to get into it.


deltav


Aug 13, 2006, 6:53 AM
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Re: pilot mountain [In reply to]
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In defense of Pilot, it is a great place for a relaxing day of toproping and sport. The quality of the climbs is good, and there is a variety from 5.5-5.12+. No, its no the place to go for trad, but it is still on of my favorite spots when I want to TR


charley


Aug 13, 2006, 2:34 PM
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You would be suprised at the number of trad leads at pilot. They may be short and it's not moores but there is trad climbing there.


dutyje


Aug 13, 2006, 4:48 PM
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You would be suprised at the number of trad leads at pilot. They may be short and it's not moores but there is trad climbing there.

That's what I was thinking... some of the typical top ropes make good trad leads, but there are also routes that are strictly trad leads (Dihedral Route and Crack'n Up come immediately to mind .. you can tell that I'm a 5.7 leader).

Dihedral Route is excellent, up until just after you exit the roof. At that point, it becomes just about making your way up the remaining choss to find an anchor.


blumsky_climbs_rox


Aug 13, 2006, 5:37 PM
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Good Sport climbing/toproping at Pilot

Moore's Wall=trad heaven, and a few really hard sport routes


bozher


Aug 13, 2006, 6:34 PM
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Hey thanks everyone for the info. We went today and had a good time. Yeah, we'll try Moores wall next time. There were some good trad routes and lots of fun sport routes. And some nice moderates which is what my wife and I needed. We have been off for a couple of months. Lots of good people too. We'll be back but we are new to North Carolina and it has so much to offer that I hate to repeat too much! Thanks again!


deltav


Aug 13, 2006, 6:42 PM
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could you elaborate on the trad there?


glyrocks


Aug 13, 2006, 7:02 PM
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In reply to:
we are new to North Carolina

Send me a PM if you're interested and I (or probably two or three from this thread as well) can set you up with a group of good folks from the Triangle that like to get out regularly. I'm out of the loop right now with injuries, but this group is always excited to have new comers of all abilities and enthusiasm.


dutyje


Aug 14, 2006, 4:46 AM
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In reply to:
could you elaborate on the trad there?

What sort of grade are you looking for? I only trad lead to 5.8, so I wouldn't know of anything there that's harder. The route Pee Break (5.5) protects very well, and is a good spot for a first trad lead. Dirty Rotten Scoundrel can be led on gear, and I frequently see people doing the same on Grandpa's Belay (although the rock quality on that route is somewhat suspect). I've never climbed Buzzard's Breath, but have thought on more than one occassion it looked like a really good lead.

All those climbs are pretty much in the exact same area, and all would go as good moderate trad leads. I've also seen somebody leading My Husband is Going to Kill Me, right next to Black Rain (which is an excellent sport lead, btw).


bozher


Aug 14, 2006, 7:08 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
we are new to North Carolina

Send me a PM if you're interested and I (or probably two or three from this thread as well) can set you up with a group of good folks from the Triangle that like to get out regularly. I'm out of the loop right now with injuries, but this group is always excited to have new comers of all abilities and enthusiasm.
That would be great. I'll PM you. We left a great bunch of people in Minnesota and miss them allot. MN you say? Yes! There is allot of climbing there and the community is very active and friendly. If you are ever in MN look up Minnesotaclimbing.com and it will put you in touch with any number of awesome people. Now, my wife and I are looking very forward to meeting people in our new area!


coloredchalker


Aug 14, 2006, 7:22 AM
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I don't think you'll be disappointed by the scene in NC, though you might encounter a little elitest attitude, for the most part its great.

As far as climbing, the variety is amazing just muster up some cajones for runouts... :D :D :D

Wish I was there to climb myself and offer some guidance.


Partner bdplayer


Aug 26, 2006, 9:39 PM
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If you really want to trad Pilot, try the parking lot climbs. There are two of them right off the parking lot. Rap rings up at the top of each climb make it easy to rappel in, and the climb on the left (as you look at it from the bottom) has a belay station about 30-40 feet up. They are about 5.6-5.7 difficulty, nothing bad if you are used to tradding.

Plenty of other stuff all along those walls too, if you take the time to stop and look for it. They may be short climbs, but some of them are really, really good. I was out there just today at Pilot after spending the morning and part of the afternoon at Moore's. It worked out pretty nice....


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