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bozher
Aug 11, 2006, 1:03 AM
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I may be going to pilot mountain with friends this weekend. How tall are the climbs. Are there good trad leads there? Any info on the area would be greatly appreciated. I'm wondering if I should be excited to drive 2 hours to get to this local or if driving another half or hour is worth it.
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toddr
Aug 11, 2006, 8:13 PM
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Sent you a PM.
Todd
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ubotch
Aug 11, 2006, 9:47 PM
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Toddr,
Would you mind posting the info that you gave bozher in the PM. I have relatives out that direction and thought it looked like a cool place when I drove past it. I'm wondering if it is worth the time next time I am out that way. Thanks.
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coloredchalker
Aug 11, 2006, 10:40 PM
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Yo, if you want one pitch sport routes then Pilot is a great spot. I'm guessing that the climbs range from 30 feet to 80+. Not much in the way of trad climbs, there are a few routes that can go mixed but mostly top rope or sport. Depending on your grade thebest routes are (just to name two) Black rain and Devil in the white house (my fav.). For trad go hit up Moores wall, especially if you have more than one day in which you could do both areas. And if you have extra time go in to winston and stop at The Outdoor Provision company to get beta.
LEAVE YOUR DOG AT HOME :)!
Have fun.
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ubotch
Aug 12, 2006, 12:18 AM
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Thanks.
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toddr
Aug 12, 2006, 5:48 PM
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ubotch,
My PM is almost exactly what coloredchalker had to say. Mainly a toprope crag with a few moderate trad leads, some hard mixed routes and moderate to hard sport. Fun climbing with easy access and bolted top anchors. Moores Wall is the better trad crag.
Todd
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glyrocks
Aug 12, 2006, 7:23 PM
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In reply to: I'm wondering if I should be excited to drive 2 hours to get to this...
No.
In reply to: ...or if driving another half or hour is worth it
Yes.
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coloredchalker
Aug 13, 2006, 1:10 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'm wondering if I should be excited to drive 2 hours to get to this... No. In reply to: ...or if driving another half or hour is worth it Yes.
I agree with this, if your into trad or want to get into it.
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deltav
Aug 13, 2006, 1:53 PM
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In defense of Pilot, it is a great place for a relaxing day of toproping and sport. The quality of the climbs is good, and there is a variety from 5.5-5.12+. No, its no the place to go for trad, but it is still on of my favorite spots when I want to TR
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charley
Aug 13, 2006, 9:34 PM
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You would be suprised at the number of trad leads at pilot. They may be short and it's not moores but there is trad climbing there.
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dutyje
Aug 13, 2006, 11:48 PM
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In reply to: You would be suprised at the number of trad leads at pilot. They may be short and it's not moores but there is trad climbing there.
That's what I was thinking... some of the typical top ropes make good trad leads, but there are also routes that are strictly trad leads (Dihedral Route and Crack'n Up come immediately to mind .. you can tell that I'm a 5.7 leader).
Dihedral Route is excellent, up until just after you exit the roof. At that point, it becomes just about making your way up the remaining choss to find an anchor.
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blumsky_climbs_rox
Aug 14, 2006, 12:37 AM
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Good Sport climbing/toproping at Pilot
Moore's Wall=trad heaven, and a few really hard sport routes
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bozher
Aug 14, 2006, 1:34 AM
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Hey thanks everyone for the info. We went today and had a good time. Yeah, we'll try Moores wall next time. There were some good trad routes and lots of fun sport routes. And some nice moderates which is what my wife and I needed. We have been off for a couple of months. Lots of good people too. We'll be back but we are new to North Carolina and it has so much to offer that I hate to repeat too much! Thanks again!
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deltav
Aug 14, 2006, 1:42 AM
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could you elaborate on the trad there?
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glyrocks
Aug 14, 2006, 2:02 AM
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In reply to: we are new to North Carolina
Send me a PM if you're interested and I (or probably two or three from this thread as well) can set you up with a group of good folks from the Triangle that like to get out regularly. I'm out of the loop right now with injuries, but this group is always excited to have new comers of all abilities and enthusiasm.
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dutyje
Aug 14, 2006, 11:46 AM
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In reply to: could you elaborate on the trad there?
What sort of grade are you looking for? I only trad lead to 5.8, so I wouldn't know of anything there that's harder. The route Pee Break (5.5) protects very well, and is a good spot for a first trad lead. Dirty Rotten Scoundrel can be led on gear, and I frequently see people doing the same on Grandpa's Belay (although the rock quality on that route is somewhat suspect). I've never climbed Buzzard's Breath, but have thought on more than one occassion it looked like a really good lead.
All those climbs are pretty much in the exact same area, and all would go as good moderate trad leads. I've also seen somebody leading My Husband is Going to Kill Me, right next to Black Rain (which is an excellent sport lead, btw).
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bozher
Aug 14, 2006, 2:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: we are new to North Carolina Send me a PM if you're interested and I (or probably two or three from this thread as well) can set you up with a group of good folks from the Triangle that like to get out regularly. I'm out of the loop right now with injuries, but this group is always excited to have new comers of all abilities and enthusiasm. |
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coloredchalker
Aug 14, 2006, 2:22 PM
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I don't think you'll be disappointed by the scene in NC, though you might encounter a little elitest attitude, for the most part its great.
As far as climbing, the variety is amazing just muster up some cajones for runouts... :D :D :D
Wish I was there to climb myself and offer some guidance.
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bdplayer
Aug 27, 2006, 4:39 AM
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If you really want to trad Pilot, try the parking lot climbs. There are two of them right off the parking lot. Rap rings up at the top of each climb make it easy to rappel in, and the climb on the left (as you look at it from the bottom) has a belay station about 30-40 feet up. They are about 5.6-5.7 difficulty, nothing bad if you are used to tradding.
Plenty of other stuff all along those walls too, if you take the time to stop and look for it. They may be short climbs, but some of them are really, really good. I was out there just today at Pilot after spending the morning and part of the afternoon at Moore's. It worked out pretty nice....
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