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Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym
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my_name_is_fake


Aug 16, 2006, 6:27 PM
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Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym
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yesterday evening .

In our local gym here in Kuala Lumpur. I was checking out the lead wall section , watching these 2 guys ( who are still new to lead climbing) climbing what i think is a 6a route ( French system). Suddenly, after about 5-6 mins of climbing, in an instant the climber fell approx. 30 feet and stopped about 3 feet from the ground. Ive never seen lead climbers falling before ( ive not done LC yet) and this was scary.

What went wrong:
Climber asked belayer to slack for him to anchor the rope. However, in the midst of pulling the rope up, he lost his grip or got scared and fell without having the time to shout to his belayer. Too much slack maybe? Sorry I cant give further details because im not familiar with lead climbing techniques and so on.


stevej


Aug 16, 2006, 7:03 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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You are SOOO lucky! WOW!!!! I have never seen anything that cool!!!!1one
Can I be your friend????


macblaze


Aug 16, 2006, 7:37 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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Ummmm,

When my son and I were practicing his lead belaying, I would regularly end up about 3 feet from the ground and he'd be up at the first draw...25 feet or so. Most of the time I'd end up giggling madly cause it was a real hoot in a safe environment...especially the time he caught my feet when he was going by and flipped me upside down.

Now if I could just get that first fall outside over with...


billl7


Aug 16, 2006, 7:46 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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Totally SOOO lucky ... to see how instantly one can be approaching the deck.

Your description reminds me of something I saw at the gym. Someone I know had about the same length of fall although in his case I don't think he was clipping the anchors but was just about up to them. He landed on his feet but by then most of the load was on the rope, fortunately. Immediately afterward, I overheard his belayer mutter to him something like, "No way am I keeping out as much slack as you ask for."

The deck just isn't very far away when leading at a gym with walls around 35 feet tall.

Bill L


Partner fire_eyes


Aug 16, 2006, 8:18 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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Now if I could just get that first fall outside over with...

Amen to that...

OP, falls when clipping, especially on hard routes, aren't all that uncommon in a gym setting. It's where climbers can test their limits, and build their skills in a saf(er) environment than say, 3rd pitch on saddle rock...

I don't know if you understand the basic dynamic of a lead fall, forgive the simple explanation if you do, but a leader falls the same distance again past their last piece of clipped protection, as well as rope stretch (assuming they are climbing on a dynamic rope...which they ought to be :D)

8 feet above a clip becomes 16 feet + some for the rope stretch, and (see macblaze's post) if your belayer is lighter than you, they come off the ground and add some more distance. Anyway, it can be exhilarating in the gym for sure.

Have fun. Don't let it spook you.


my_name_is_fake


Aug 16, 2006, 8:21 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Now if I could just get that first fall outside over with...

Amen to that...

OP, falls when clipping, especially on hard routes, aren't all that uncommon in a gym setting. It's where climbers can test their limits, and build their skills in a saf(er) environment than say, 3rd pitch on saddle rock...

I don't know if you understand the basic dynamic of a lead fall, forgive the simple explanation if you do, but a leader falls the same distance again past their last piece of clipped protection, as well as rope stretch (assuming they are climbing on a dynamic rope...which they ought to be :D)

8 feet above a clip becomes 16 feet + some for the rope stretch, and (see macblaze's post) if your belayer is lighter than you, they come off the ground and add some more distance. Anyway, it can be exhilarating in the gym for sure.

Have fun. Don't let it spook you.

heh, thanks. Well, I WAS spooked for a minute or two, but it's not enough to change my mind on taking a lead climbing class next month. :)


p0bray01


Aug 16, 2006, 9:42 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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good for you...I blew many a clip when learning to lead...thank god my belayer reeled in slack (most of the time) and we anchored her! Just take your time, and start slow, then take a few SAFE practice falls to get the jitters out. Make sure communication with your belayer is very good and well established! :D


Partner gunksgoer


Aug 16, 2006, 9:58 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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I believe it was a 30 foot fall, actually.


sbaclimber


Aug 16, 2006, 10:08 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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I believe it was a 30 foot fall, actually.
Hmmm, if 15 people all fell at once, would that make it a 30 feet fall?
Actually, that would probably just be 15 2 feet falls, all at once.
.
.
.
.
.
Ah, I've got it! How about a centipede with only 30 legs......? :arrow:

Edit, 'cause my math sucks... :oops:


sick_climba


Aug 16, 2006, 10:24 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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You are SOOO lucky! WOW!!!! I have never seen anything that cool!!!!1one
Can I be your friend????
Steve..... not even somthing as cool as this could improve your image.... when will you learn? :roll:


curtis_g


Aug 16, 2006, 11:00 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I believe it was a 30 foot fall, actually.
Hmmm, if 15 people all fell at once, would that make it a 30 feet fall?
Actually, that would probably just be 15 2 feet falls, all at once.
.
.
.
.
.
Ah, I've got it! How about a centipede with only 30 legs......? :arrow:

Edit, 'cause my math sucks... :oops:

haha, I only wish I was this before the edit. :lol: :lol: :lol:


my_name_is_fake


Aug 16, 2006, 11:02 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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Thank you for the Grammar correction. :lol:


sbaclimber


Aug 16, 2006, 11:31 PM
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Re: Witnessed a 30 feet fall at the gym [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
I believe it was a 30 foot fall, actually.
Ah, I've got it! How about a centipede with only 30 legs......? :arrow:

Edit, 'cause my math sucks... :oops:

haha, I only wish I was this before the edit. :lol: :lol: :lol:
I have no shame, I had said 15 legs on the centipede :roll: :D


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