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bouldering comp warm-up strategy
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sidepull


Sep 5, 2006, 10:46 AM
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bouldering comp warm-up strategy
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I'm looking for some experienced comp climbers to share their warm up strategies. I'm competing in my first comp this weekend and I'm not sure how to spend my warm-up time while in isolation. Should I ARC for 10 minutes and then work progressively harder problems building up to something I can't get up? Also, how long before I go out of isolation should I stop climbing so that I'm well rested?

I realize that times and routines are personal based on an individual's skills and fitness - I'm looking for some basic guidelines and I'll put the rest together. Thanks in advance for the advice.

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sidepull


Sep 5, 2006, 4:36 PM
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Re: bouldering comp warm-up strategy [In reply to]
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bump. :shock:


tyson16v


Sep 5, 2006, 6:38 PM
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Re: bouldering comp warm-up strategy [In reply to]
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sidepull,
what do you normally do to warm up before a session? do you feel like that is working really well for you.
i have my climbers train their warm ups prior to comp time. find out what works for you really well, and then do that same warm up everytime before you climb for at least a couple weeks before the comp. i try and have my climbers focus on getting their program ready about 5 weeks before a comp. you need to get your mind ready, focus on your diet, climbing, warm up, etc. everything leading up to what is going to equate to a good comp performance. figure out what your physical clock is like. figure out how long it takes for you to be able to pull down. in my opion it is best to start easy, like arcing and then starting building up toward a hard session. because when you come out of iso you want to be at your peak of your session.
warm up all your crimps and slopers and all that. try hard problems in iso, try easy problems in iso. it really comes down to figuring out when in your session you feel the strongest. try to rest about 10-15 minutes before you get outta iso, but dont get too cold. also dont burn up all your power before you go out.
for me personally i dont feel at my peak until about an hour and a half of my session. it used to be 45 minutes, but im older now and it takes longer to get there. but i can sustain it for longer.
hope this is a start for you.
good luck
tyson


sidepull


Sep 5, 2006, 9:13 PM
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thanks!

other's thoughts/routines?


overlord


Sep 5, 2006, 10:00 PM
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while i cant give you any comp-specific warm up advice (i have only been to two comps and didnt warm enough on either; but that was some time ago), i can give you some general advice on what works for me.

first you need to keep in mind that were different so we all need different warmup strategies.

i currently need about 30-45min to really get going. for me that time is mostly spent climbing longer a bit pumpy routes and some light stretching. i throw in some boulder problems just to keep things spicy. the final rest before going out shouldnt be too long or youll cool down too much. about 10-15min works for me.

on last thing, have something 'warm' to wear. in the summer that usually means another tshirt or sweatshirt. its importatn that you dont feel cold during warmup, it makes it a bit harder.


sidepull


Sep 7, 2006, 9:56 AM
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I failed to mention that this is a bouldering competition with an onsight format - 3 problems, 5 minutes for each problem with 5 minutes of rest in between.

Given that it's a bouldering comp, should I warmup and try a few problems at my limit (assuming that some of the problems in the comp will be beyond my limits)?

Also, given the gym the competition is at, I assume that the problems will be pretty steep - should that change how I prepare in isolation?


sidepull


Sep 7, 2006, 4:03 PM
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bump - I mean, there have to be more than two people that have competed before.


tyson16v


Sep 7, 2006, 9:01 PM
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In reply to:
I failed to mention that this is a bouldering competition with an onsight format - 3 problems, 5 minutes for each problem with 5 minutes of rest in between.

Given that it's a bouldering comp, should I warmup and try a few problems at my limit (assuming that some of the problems in the comp will be beyond my limits)?

Also, given the gym the competition is at, I assume that the problems will be pretty steep - should that change how I prepare in isolation?

regardless of what type of competition it is, you should warm up like i mentioned above. definitely try problems at your limit. you gotta warm that aspect of your climbing up too.

the steepness of the walls should not dictate your warm up. if you do a proper warm up you will have warmed up every aspect.

hope this helps.


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