|
phillyb285
Sep 6, 2002, 11:39 PM
Post #1 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2002
Posts: 35
|
what can i do to keep my forearms from pumping so fast; i was in the gym the other day and made it up like 2 routes b4 my forearms were so pumped i could barely undo the buckles of my harness so what are some things i can do to keep from this happening?? thanks a lot! phil
|
|
|
|
|
rocks4jules
Sep 6, 2002, 11:44 PM
Post #2 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 287
|
More center balance on the feet, use the legs more, and extension of your arms will help. Have fun and CLIMB ON!!! Jules [ This Message was edited by: rocks4jules on 2002-09-06 16:44 ]
|
|
|
|
|
staticbuz
Sep 6, 2002, 11:45 PM
Post #3 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2002
Posts: 452
|
First id say you probably need to work on using your legs more to get up the wall if you cant undo a buckle after 2 runs and then second you will just need to work them out.. check out all the threads on working your forearms.. they will get stronger over time and your stamina with them with increase and you can climb longer and harder.
|
|
|
|
|
fitz
Sep 8, 2002, 2:43 AM
Post #4 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 363
|
In addition to the above, you might also be overgripping holds. Try minimizing how hard you pinch or squeeze, and use an open grip whenever you can. -jjf
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Sep 9, 2002, 9:42 AM
Post #5 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
try using them as little as possible. you climb with legs, arms just keep you on the wall. CLIMB ON
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Sep 16, 2002, 12:44 AM
Post #6 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
In summation: you're a wuss. If it's any consolation, I'm one too, get pumped quick. The more you climb (leaving rest days of course) the stronger you'll get. BTW: buy any book by Eric Horst. How to climb rock. How to climb rock fast. Hot to climb for effect. How to climb to pick up bitches.(Hey, I'm only reporting this - not writing it, I could be wrong bout the titles here) Probably any of the how to whatever should do the pop for ya. You might try getting some for free at Horst's site: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/ He's really into the performance aspect of climbing, and looks well studied. He generally belives that your mental aspect is at least (or more) important than the physical aspect. He would say (Paraphrasing here) that perhaps if you found and used the rests more effectively, you would burn less and not as fast. His training techniques are rock solid IMO, and don't forget that stretching should be an integral part of climbing and working out. Regards Bill [ This Message was edited by: billcoe_ on 2002-09-27 22:28 ] [ This Message was edited by: billcoe_ on 2002-09-27 22:33 ]
|
|
|
|
|
mattiem
Sep 16, 2002, 12:59 AM
Post #7 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 104
|
Are you warming up enough? If you dont take a long time to do a good warm up and stretch you will "flash pump" which can ruin a whole day for me. I start about 4 number grades below what i plan on climbing that day. If i am going to climb a 5.11 at some point i climb a 5.7 then stretch then a 5.8 then stretch etc etc until i am very warmed up and slowly warmed up. Try this it is very helpful in reducing pump matt
|
|
|
|
|
onbelay_osu
Sep 16, 2002, 1:09 AM
Post #8 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2002
Posts: 1087
|
use more legs, and start doing endurance work outs, traversing stoped that whole pump out thing for me, well not stopped but cut it down for me, climb on and safe
|
|
|
|
|
prana0777
Sep 16, 2002, 10:47 PM
Post #9 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2002
Posts: 140
|
best practice is endurance and learn how to blance,tech if you focus on tech and figure out which is better for you when you move or reach another holds. i did that and improve myself. if i can t figure out. i will sit and look at the routes. almsot like math or angel which is good or bad etc,. you can try it.. maybe my help isnt good worth to try huh??? C-
|
|
|
|
|
wv5ten
Nov 9, 2002, 4:47 AM
Post #10 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 671
|
Stretch. good. use your legs more (as mentioned many times above) Keep arms extended. butt slightly out if need be, untill you have the footwork you need. Hope one of our messages helped
|
|
|
|
|
boulderingmadman
Nov 9, 2002, 4:57 AM
Post #11 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2002
Posts: 448
|
checkitout--this will train your forearms to work past what you now regard as "pumped out"... take a standard sport rack(about ten draws, you may wanna start with 5 )and a length of cloithesline-type rope. a length of round wood about 3-3.5 ft long, like a short broomhandle. tie one end of the rope around the broomstick and tie a loop in the other end. clip a 'biner and about 5-10 quickdraws on the hanging end. now roll the rope all the way up to the stick, then all the way back down, then all the way back up, etcetcetcetc...this will pump you out, but will also train your muscles to keep working through the pump instead of "locking up"...
|
|
|
|
|
colin
Nov 9, 2002, 5:19 AM
Post #12 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2001
Posts: 708
|
when holding something that small it's common to pump fast.
|
|
|
|
|
alvchen
Nov 9, 2002, 5:49 AM
Post #13 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2002
Posts: 616
|
STRETCH. Like said above, this will make you last a lot longer. I used to have the same problem; I would always start on a route I always had a problem on thinking that i'm fresh and have a better chance of making it up. wrong. Stretch....warmup....stretch.
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Nov 9, 2002, 5:57 AM
Post #14 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
I do that stick rope thing with a ten pound weight on it. This has built my forearms up and over a few weeks I notice that it is getting easier for me to do. Keep your elbows straight!
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Nov 9, 2002, 6:07 AM
Post #15 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
Climb with rhythm. Don't climb rest to rest, clinging to every jug. Think of a jug as a hold you can pull really hard on to reach the next or even skip a hold or two. Just keep jacking the feet up and standing up. Things always look better when you are a few inches higher, than they do when you are hanging/chalking/shaking out. Point your frustration at the belay (or the shuts) and don't stop pulling until you're there. Start with easy routes, and run laps on them, or just use all the holds in the gym. Don't get sloppy, keep technique tight. Coming to the realization that I was climbing too slow was the key to blasting past all of my barriers in every kind of climbing. Good luck. Jeremy
|
|
|
|
|
esoteric1
Nov 9, 2002, 6:41 AM
Post #16 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2002
Posts: 705
|
WELCOME TO THE FLASH PUMP! warm up a bit before you jump on the overhanging stuff, its important to get the blood flowing slowly before you crank...
|
|
|
|
|
klimberbob
Nov 9, 2002, 3:36 PM
Post #17 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2002
Posts: 46
|
climb more. do a easy climb 1st to work out the flash pump
|
|
|
|
|
scotia
Nov 9, 2002, 4:15 PM
Post #18 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2001
Posts: 147
|
Use your feet as much as possible and train your endurance, not just power.
|
|
|
|
|
estwing
Nov 9, 2002, 6:06 PM
Post #19 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 344
|
Why are you undoing the buckles of your harness after only two routes? have a nice day, Sam
|
|
|
|
|
sharmagod
Nov 10, 2002, 7:21 PM
Post #20 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 19, 2002
Posts: 535
|
Hey, You might want to check out this link on pumped forearms. Jason PS-Just scroll down a bit and you will see the article you can read. Hope this helps. [ This Message was edited by: sharmagod on 2002-11-10 11:22 ]
|
|
|
|
|
wildtrail
Nov 10, 2002, 7:53 PM
Post #21 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
|
It can aslo be a lack of muscle endurance. I have a problem with both centering and balance and muscle endurance. I've built myself for power and burn out very quickly. Keep climbing, it'll get better. Steve
|
|
|
|
|
one900johnnyk
Nov 13, 2002, 2:51 PM
Post #22 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 2381
|
screw it, just do forearm exersizes in the gym. works for me...
|
|
|
|
|
ktwo
Nov 13, 2002, 3:14 PM
Post #23 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 10, 2002
Posts: 443
|
Climb... Alot... On easy stuff, over and over and over until your arms hurt so bad that you cant hold yourself to pee!
|
|
|
|
|
snars
Nov 19, 2002, 6:32 PM
Post #24 of 24
(4784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 38
|
You're problem could be caused by anything, judging by your firstpost. My best guess would be that you're going in too hard. Start with really easy routes (as in: reeeaaaallly easy ones, routes that you could climb asleep with one broken foot and two fingers up ur nose) and gently stretch da muscles before you look at something that comes even near to your maximum level. If you're too afraid that people will laugh when you ask em to belay you in a 3, simply boulder around, picking only the biggest grips. Climbing up and then down again in a very simple route is also a good way of warming up/cooling down.
|
|
|
|
|
|