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elepita
Oct 4, 2006, 8:24 AM
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Hi! I just came back from a 3 months climbing trip in the States and Canada and it was great!! I did mostly crack climbing (he! europe does not have as many cracks). Anyway, finally came back home, went to the climbing gym and I suck! I lost my grip and have no strengh for overhanging stuff, has this ever happened to any of you before? are you the weakest in the gym when you are the strongest outside? Thanks!
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overlord
Oct 4, 2006, 8:32 AM
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it could have something to do with the type of routes you were climbing on the roadtrip. if they were mostly cracks, its pretty logical that youve lost some strength on 'typical european' routes.
but to answer your question, climbing a lot outside definitely has positive sideeffects for my gym climbing. if nothing else, i get some motivation.
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joshklingbeil
Oct 4, 2006, 9:24 AM
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Indoor climbing what's the right word,SUCKS!!
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fabe
Oct 4, 2006, 9:51 AM
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I experienced the same! I climb most of the time outdoors. In the gym I climb about 3 grades worse than on rock... So what! Indoor climbing sucks anyways...
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heiko
Oct 4, 2006, 9:52 AM
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how could you possibly maintain your crimp-strength if you've been only climbing cracks for three months? this has nothing to do with indoor/outdoor. it's just a different type of climbing. go on a thin, crimpy, overhanging rock route outside and you will experience the same.
apart from that: who cares about grades in the gym. you don't train on rock to be good at the gym, right? ;)
plus, depending on the local ratings in the gym my "onsight level" is anything between 6a+ and 7a, so again, this means nothing.
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boredwolf
Oct 4, 2006, 11:10 AM
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First and foremost is the technique-specific training. If you haven't been doing a lot of overhangs or what-have-you, you've got to get back into the swing of things. Second is your confidence. Just keep working at it. Don't blame gyms for "sucking", because you start "sucking" when you blame the climb for not being easy enough to climb effortlessly. Anything that comes easy isn't worth mentioning.
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epoch
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Oct 4, 2006, 11:48 AM
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I climb allot outside.
With that in mind, I can't climb for crap in a Gym even though I usually go twice a week. I personally believe that it is a mental thing. I am more focused on real rock than plastic, because I know the plastic is fake and therefore the climbing must be fake. I find the troubles that I have indoors are also related to the fact that you climb someone else's pre-conceived route with specific holds that are to be used to make you climb a certain way. Outdoors there is more freedom to how you climb. There are no rules (If you make rules you are categorically a weeeetawwd) as to what is in and what is not. Get up it the best way that you can.
And for fucks sake, why is it that I often, too, also find myself flopping around in a gym? I know the gym is there for fun and training. It's not what climbing is really about.
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lena_chita
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Oct 4, 2006, 2:19 PM
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Like others said, it has probably more to do with the fact that you were climbing different type of rock outside. of course if you spent 3 months climbing cracks you will be better at climbing cracks but will lose some in the crimper/sloper/overhang type climbing.
I find something similar happening if I boulder a lot and skip roped climbing -- I improve my bouldering skills, but get worse at longer climbs... balance is key for everything in life!
One thing that I noticed about going to the gym after climbing outside is that the routes inside seem so contrived... but hey, I'm not a gym basher. I'm about to go on my last trip outside for about 6 months or so... sniff-sniff... waaaahhhh!
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bizarrodrinker
Oct 5, 2006, 1:28 PM
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This thread kind of sounds like people climb outside as training for gym days. That is just ass backwards. Who cares what grades go in the gym (or outside for that matter). Maybe I am just losing my zeal.
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nthusiastj
Oct 5, 2006, 2:37 PM
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I've had the same problem. I've even been climbing alot of sport outdoors lately. I routinely onsight low to mid 11's outside. However, I've been whipping off of the 10's in the gym lately.
Oh well... I'd much rather be able to crank at Indian Creek then pull that sick 10+ in the gym.
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zeke_sf
Oct 5, 2006, 7:38 PM
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yeah, crack climbs don't really translate into gym grades (unless you're a masochist who actually likes the cracks found in gyms :wink:). i've noticed the same thing in my climbing that I do as well or better outside even though gyms are usually considered "soft" on ratings. plus, most gym routes are more overhung and sustained than many outdoor areas. for me, I'm partially color-blind and the gym I go to keeps laying out similar colored routes right next to each other! well, that oughta be enough ego-stroking rationales for one post...
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bizarrodrinker
Oct 5, 2006, 7:56 PM
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Plus climbing outside is WAY more fun, so I think people on the whole tend try harder.
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gritstoner
Oct 6, 2006, 7:38 AM
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In reply to: (he! europe does not have as many cracks).
two things -
1st get yourself to northern england and the gritstone or up to scotland and the granite if you love cracks. we got plenty of them.
2nd, who cares about the gym. gym climbing sucks the sweat off the balls of a dead man!
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elepita
Oct 9, 2006, 9:28 AM
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He all, thanks for your responses! I went to sport climb putside this weekend on limestone and I noticed that as I thought I have lost a little bit of crimping strengh due to having been just crack climbing. Plus the skin on my fingertips could not take the limestone as well as before I left on my trip. Oh well, it does not matter, it will come back plus I had a really good time climbing cracks and that is what it is about right? having fun! Anyway, I did not mean that we don't have cracks a all in europe, but at least where I live, we don't have one splitter after another like for example say indian creek. I am planning to go to northern europe to climb, I am specially interested in going to Norway, anybody knows where to get good info of the climbing there? Thanks!
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astone
Oct 9, 2006, 6:52 PM
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Ummm, yeah, like, who cares?
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