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Forbidden corner
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lovesclimbing


Oct 11, 2006, 9:39 PM
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Registered: Jun 28, 2003
Posts: 550

Forbidden corner  (North_America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska)
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Anyone ran up it lately or can give any beta or opinions on it
thanks


rockguide


Oct 11, 2006, 10:02 PM
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
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Re: Forbidden corner [In reply to]
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Great route - definitely old school though ...

Pitch 1 is serious. Expect 5.8 moves (if you find them ... route finding is tricky) 10 feet off an OK piece, 20 feet off a ledge. Oh, and the rock is loose. Good luck with it.

Pitch 2 is good and well protected. Hanging belay where the route breaks right on the flake.

I recommend the straight up (5.9) variation on Pitch 3 rather than breaking right on the flake (the original route). Continue up the 5.9 corner above - rather than the wandery, poorly protected 5.7 out left.

The upper pitches are heady, route finding cruxes. There are a few bad pins to be replaced, but at least the belays are good.

I have finished on Milky way (10c). Very good way to go. The last pitch is all bolted, but not to sport climbing standards.

B


ddriver


Oct 12, 2006, 2:46 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
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Re: Forbidden corner [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Great route - definitely old school though ...

The upper pitches are heady, route finding cruxes. There are a few bad pins to be replaced, but at least the belays are good.

B

Agreed. The book may say 5.8+ but treat it as 5.10 and expect to be engaged.


lovesclimbing


Oct 12, 2006, 10:28 PM
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Re: Forbidden corner [In reply to]
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you got to go back and do the last 5.9 pitch, it is wicked, I think more of 5.8 but the exposure is awsom, thanks for the info we did the 5.10 variation pitchs and was great climbing, didnt have to many route finding problems though, the 5.8 runout traverse was interesting.


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