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lowebacker
Oct 17, 2006, 4:02 PM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2004
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I wanted to pick some of your brains out there. I am in the market for a new rope and want to take the sub-10mm plunge. This rope is going to be my only rope, with the exception of a Beal Rando for some rappels and security on 4th and low 5th class in the Mountains. I will be using it for everything ice climbing, alpine, trad, and sport at the local crags and in the mountains of CO. I am taking everything into account to get the best rope per dollar spent and have narrowed it down to four ropes. Anyone out there have first hand experience with the following ropes?
1.) Sterling Velocity 9.8mm, 62g/m, 70m, dry core, $164
-Falls: 6 Impact Force: 8.8%
2.) Edelrid Livewire 9.8mm, 62g/m, 70m, dry, $150
-Falls:7 Impact Force: 9.4%
3.) Mammut Infinity 9.5mm, 58g/m, 60m, dry, $170
-Falls:7 Impact Force: 9%
4.) Edelweiss Laser 9.6mm, 61g/m, 70m, dry, $145
-Falls:6 Impact Force: 8%
I currently have a Sterling 10.3x60m that I really like, it's a good solid rope. But, right now if 'I had to buy one or die' the Edelweiss Laser would be it. But that damn Mammut keeps creeping into my brain, it's such a nice f'ing rope. The only thing is the 60m when I could get a good 70m for $25 cheaper.
Is having that 10 extra meters in a 70m rope much nicer? I have only had a 60m and have never reallllllly wished I had that extra 10m (yet). I know the 70m will cut down the number of pitches on certain routes. Once you get a 70m do you swear you will never go back to a 60m again?
By the way if anyone out there has another recommendation, please let me know.
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timm
Oct 17, 2006, 5:03 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2005
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While I've done routes in the high country, I've yet to really come upon a situation where I *had* to have a 70m rope. It all depends upon the belay spots etc. Thru picking easier to setup belay spots and being efficient, I've outclimbed parties with 70m ropes while I only had a 50m rope and a slow second. Longer pitches don't necessarily mean more speed if you spend forever setting up a crappy belay becuase you are out of rope. (Sorry that was sort of off-topic).
My personal favorite ropes are Mammut followed by Edelweiss and Edelrid. IMHO, most of the other ropes I've not had good results with. I think your Laser choice would not be a bad one ... but the longest wearing ropes that I've ever owned have been Mammut.
Just my $0.02.
Cheers.
[edit] PS : I have the Laser but have not climbed on it enough to know how it's going to wear.
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fancyclaps
Oct 17, 2006, 5:40 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2005
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I have the Mammut Infinity and I like it alot. Handles well and is a nice weight. It has been long enough for me, but I do mostly single pitch sport climbing so that might not be applicable for you. I would go ahead and pony up to get the Mammut, they are by far the best ropes I have climbed on.
As to going 60m or 70m, it is all a matter of preference. With a 70m you have more length to cut down if you take some nasty falls on one end, and still have a usable rope, but you have to haul that extra 10m of rope around with you. I think functionally there is very little difference between the two. Just depends on how much many you want to spend and how much weight you mind hauling around.
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fancyclaps
Oct 17, 2006, 5:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2005
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I have the Mammut Infinity and I like it alot. Handles well and is a nice weight. It has been long enough for me, but I do mostly single pitch sport climbing so that might not be applicable for you. I would go ahead and pony up to get the Mammut, they are by far the best ropes I have climbed on.
As to going 60m or 70m, it is all a matter of preference. With a 70m you have more length to cut down if you take some nasty falls on one end, and still have a usable rope, but you have to haul that extra 10m of rope around with you. I think functionally there is very little difference between the two. Just depends on how much many you want to spend and how much weight you mind hauling around.
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boredwolf
Oct 17, 2006, 7:09 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2006
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Go with one of the 70m ropes. If you don't, you might regret it one day, and it's always better to spend another $25 than buy another rope for a lot more. I've rapped some stuff with a 60m rope that barely got me to a ledge I could safely down-climb from. The ropes you're looking at all seem to be really good. I'd go with the Edelweiss Laser, especially if you can get it at that price with the bi-pattern; It's a steal!
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joshy8200
Oct 17, 2006, 7:46 PM
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I've got some questions for you. Why are you looking to get a thinner chord? Are you looking to shave weight? Are you looking for something that handles better?
I think that if you're going to get a skinny rope...get the lightest you can get. Otherwise you're buying a product that's going to wear out faster than a fatter rope that weighs just about the same.
Example:
Sterling 10.1 Marathon Pro 63g/m (you get a rope that will wear really well and is still light)
or shave the weight
Bluewater 9.4 55g/m
Beal Joker 9.1 53g/m
Mammut Serenity 8.9 52g/m
But like I said...that would just be the way I would go about getting a thin chord. I bought a Beal 9.4 Stinger that is 59g/m. And I think that it's a great rope. But when comparing the weights of the two...4g/m is noticeable but not by much. If I had the same choice again I would have tried to go lighter.
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timm
Oct 17, 2006, 7:57 PM
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In reply to: Go with one of the 70m ropes. If you don't, you might regret it one day, and it's always better to spend another $25 than buy another rope for a lot more. I've rapped some stuff with a 60m rope that barely got me to a ledge I could safely down-climb from.
I don't think that just because a 60m rope just barely got you down to a ledge would be a sufficient enough reason to buy a 70m rope. Unless you are a sport climber, do you really want to pack in the extra 10 or 20meters of rope ?? Buy a 70m rope because you know that the routes you are going to do requires you to either climb or rap on a 70m rope.
When doing long routes, I can't imagine that every pitch will be 70m and pulling up all the extra slack is a real pain along with the fact that 10 or 20 meters more of rope is just more rope to manage at stances and more of a chance of having rope management issues.
Cheers.
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lowebacker
Oct 17, 2006, 8:18 PM
Post #8 of 14
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Registered: Apr 5, 2004
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In reply to: I've got some questions for you. Why are you looking to get a thinner chord? Are you looking to shave weight? Are you looking for something that handles better?
I am getting a thinner cord because of the weight and packability. The Joker and Serenity are too small and specialized for me. Wouldn't hold up to all the abuse. I wish I had the money to get one and say this is just for long alipne routes and nothing else. About the thinnest I was wanting to go is 9.5mm. I think I may be swaying towards the Mammut. Thinking more and more that the 70m would be more of a pain than it would be a blessing, not to mention a 7.5 lb 60m rope is pretty sweet.
Does anyone know if the Mammut, since it is so well made, will hold up the same or better than the others even though it is a thinner diameter?
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timm
Oct 17, 2006, 8:30 PM
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In reply to: Does anyone know if the Mammut, since it is so well made, will hold up the same or better than the others even though it is a thinner diameter?
As I posted above, I have had better experiences with Mammut than every other rope manufacter I've owned. I've found that Mammut's stand up better than ropes of equal or larger diameters. My first 10mm was a Mammut and it lasted better than all my 10.5mm and 11mm ropes that I owned at the time.
Again, just my $0.02. Your mileage may vary depending upon how you (and your partners) climb and treat your rope.
Cheers and good luck.
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joshy8200
Oct 17, 2006, 9:06 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: I've got some questions for you. Why are you looking to get a thinner chord? Are you looking to shave weight? Are you looking for something that handles better? I am getting a thinner cord because of the weight and packability. The Joker and Serenity are too small and specialized for me. Wouldn't hold up to all the abuse. I wish I had the money to get one and say this is just for long alipne routes and nothing else. About the thinnest I was wanting to go is 9.5mm. I think I may be swaying towards the Mammut. Thinking more and more that the 70m would be more of a pain than it would be a blessing, not to mention a 7.5 lb 60m rope is pretty sweet. Does anyone know if the Mammut, since it is so well made, will hold up the same or better than the others even though it is a thinner diameter?
I've heard the Bluewater 9.4 is supposed to wear well...just from online reviews though. And if shaving weight is what you're looking for 55g/m as opposed to 58g/m...well you do the math. And I said before I have a Sterling 10.1 weighing in at 63g/m and a Beal 9.4 at 59g/m. The weight savings between the two are noticeable when you holding them side by side...but I can't tell the difference when I'm carrying them in a pack or leading on them.
Gearexpress.com Bluewater 9.4 60m Dominator w/free Rope Bag $182
Anyways...I'm nitpicking over the ropes that I bought more than anything and just playing the 'would've, could've, should've' game. Goodluck. Just don't be like me and start eyeballing all the next best lightest rope that comes out the day after you purchase yours!
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drkayak
Oct 17, 2006, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
Posts: 136
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I would not recommend the Laser. I got the same 70m bi-pattern and it did not last one season. Granted, I top Roped on it at will. The Laser lasted about the same as low-end Maximum ropes you can get for around $135.
If you want a rope that will take abuse and still pack small, the Sterling Marathon 10.1mm is a great rope. But expensive and hard to find in 70m.
As far as a 70m. I climb on a 70m at Lovers Leap because you can rap off every climb that would require 2 60m to get down with 1 70m. Most other crags a 70m is no benefit at all.
My current 70m is a Maximum "Glider" twill pattern 9.8mm. It looks to be best Maxium I have ever owned.
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overlord
Oct 18, 2006, 6:37 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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of the ropes listed, i have the mammut infinity, 70m. its a superb rope and i can only reccomend it.
as for usefullness of a 70m cord. it depends on where you climb most of the time. if all rappel stations are less than 30m apart and other climbs have walkoffs, than you dont really need it. however, if you have some routes that require a bit more line, it can really save the day. here we have some 30m-ish singlepitch sportclimbs and having those extra 10m makes the difference between having a comfortable lowering and a scary situation.
so if you need it, go for the 70m, otherwise dont bother.
anyway, edelweiss also makes good ropes.
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climbinginchico
Oct 18, 2006, 7:18 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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I've got a Beal Stinger 9.4 that I really like. It's a bitchin rope. The 70m has really come in handy more than once.
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jimdavis
Oct 18, 2006, 9:42 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
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I have that sterling rope in a bi-color 60m...and I'm really happy with it.
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